Naranek wrote on Aug 28^th, 2026 at 12:35pm:


Don't worry about this - it's mostly about technique and will come with time. The slings you've posted here should crack just fine once you get your technique dialed in. Side-note: cracks are possible even at lower speeds with good technique, so don't try to muscle your throws to get a crack - you'll just end up straining something.

Naranek wrote on Aug 28^th, 2026 at 12:35pm:


Yes, the 30g I mentioned was the total weight of the sling. When I said "side-by-side" I just meant for you to make an identical sling to your last one(same length/materials), but with a taper in it. Then use both of them in the same slinging session so you can feel the difference between a sling with a taper and a sling without. I'm confident you'll much prefer the one with the taper

Pocket rock.et wrote on Sep 9^th, 2026 at 1:34am:


In case you didn't see the follow-up on my post, it didn't work out so well long-term and I would not recommend it. My skin(and probably micro grit in my finger pads) eventually burnished the aluminum tab to a glass-smooth sheen that was very slippery. It was incredibly gradual so I didn't realize it was happening until a few thousand throws later and my accuracy kept drifting worse and worse for no apparent reason.

There may be a better way to implement a metal grip, but overall I'd say just stick to a leather tab. Doesn't eat up your fingers and lasts functionally forever. I've yet to wear out a single one, even with tens of thousands of throws on a couple of my slings.

In other news, I finally got my hands on some esparto! My first one was pretty messy, but after some pro tips from Raul(wet the fibers briefly, sit them on a dry surface for 10-30 minutes, then braid while they are still damp) the second one came out pretty good! Still a lot to improve, but plenty good for me.

erricrice wrote on Sep 9^th, 2026 at 11:25am:

I saw it, but honestly, I forgot
And in your case, was the shape not involved at all? Was the surface the only point of engagement?

What drew me to the tips in the video was their shape—specifically the transition to the wider section, which essentially mirrors the shape formed between squeezed fingers. In any case, I’ve already ordered them, once they arrive, it will become clear whether it’s worth experimenting with them.

swiftcreek wrote on Sep 9^th, 2026 at 10:08pm:

As for the sound, I was planning to use a cracker as well, simply by inserting it inside. Although, yes, the pop would likely become quieter or disappear altogether due to the reduced elasticity in that area.
And yes, I also thought about wear at the transition point between that component and the rope... I think I need to see it in person and probably just test it out.

irgendeinekiwi wrote on Sep 10^th, 2026 at 12:14pm:

Yeah, but the beads have a different shape...
I only thought about the printer after discussing the metal ones, though I haven't had any experience with TPU yet. PETG would likely have been suitable too, provided the model was oriented so the layers ran along its length.

Actually, leather is a great material choice; I just don't know yet how to achieve the shape I need—or even if I actually need it. 

@Pocket rock.et - A piece of metal at the end of a release cord is always a bit scary.  It does have a cool look to it.  Curious to hear your thoughts when you try it out.

@erricrice - Wow dude!  That sling looks fantastic!

@swiftcreek - That design looks slick.  I haven't used that specifically, but in Ibiza we saw a number of the Spanish slingers using a hold with the finger loop on the index finger.  I tried it out for a bit, and it creates a similar effect.  Basically the thumb is holding the release cord right next to the finger loop so it creates that larger surface area.  Some pics here for a visual: https://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1767755889.

Some more polysteel off the assembly line! And I've been experimenting with plastidip on the pouch to increase grip and prevent smooth rocks from slipping. Not particularly durable, but as long as it keeps the surface grippy, the polysteel can take the damage.

If you cut off most/all of the cylinder part so just the cone is left, that would save weight and likely reduce wear once filed smooth again. you could add a sacrificial layer of tape or something between the metal and the paracord. still though, its unforgiving metal rubbing constantly against the most active part of the sling.

Thanks! 28 inches this time around. I think I'm growing out of my short slings phase and back to my standard again. Only after worlds though