Not that long and quiteva short sling.

So the question is:

Long staff with short sling
Short staff with long sling
Or long staff with a long sling.

I feel a new video by Joe is needed

You were kind enough to send me some leather, I can send you a sling staff head or two

Also bear in mind how much easier it is to use a staff sling with gloves on Joe
Snowballs !

Got all my broom handles just before Christmas.
Really nice, all I've checked so far are straight with no large knots. Quite impressed.

Currently working on two different ideas.

One is a standard printed head that takes different inserts.
Figured easy to exchange tips held in with a through bolt, might be an easier way to do it.

Currently using laser cut '3' mm ply.
The problem is that it's not actually 3mm and I didn't measure the exact thickness, before printing the first broom top.
Cut a hoopak tip.
It's nearer 3.5 and will not fit.
Plus arms need to be wider and longer.

The 3d printers are actually a lot more dimensionally accurate the the laser cutter.
That's got the world's cheapest controller board, really suffers in cutting accuracy because of it.
Image engraving is spot on. Soni know the actual mechanics of the machine are fine.
Just the way the board drives the stepper motors for continuous cutting or engraving is pretty iffy.

I do have some 3mm acrylic. But while really stiff, it is extremely brittle and I reckon plywood is probably a better bet for a staff sling. I might try it.

So currently reprinting the broom head with a wider insert socket.
I also need to make the tips a bit bigger.

I might also try a straight printed insert.

Although using inkscape to draw a 2d outline for cutting, is actually much easier and quicker. Than creating a 3d model with openscad.

And it's only just occurred to me that I can take that 2d drawing and extrude it into a 3d model  duh !
Well that will certainly make printing the inserts a lot quicker and easier

The head hammers on to the broom handle no problem. And I've put 3 screw holes for permanent attachment, although as I have to also use a hammer to remove the head, not sure screws are strictly necessary, and 1 would probably be sufficient.

There's also a through hole for a bolt to hold the insert securely in place.

The other idea would be like kordwars, and an all in one socket and tip.
As I'm currently using polyurethane - mainly because it laughs at hammers.
Not sure if the tips of a hoopack would be stiff enough.

So that needs testing.
Right took some pics, so I'll go sort those

@kordwar: the hole in the one you sent me was just right for an M5 screw.  I took the boat sling you sent, clamped the release cord between two washers and used the finger loop over the hook.  Works great!

Well the flat slot is only there because I was going to laser cut the different tips.

But now, thinking make it a screw socket and just print screw in attachments.

Basically right back to your original idea, just with a socket that can be made to fit any piece of unthreaded wood.
That way the whole thing can be made stronger and it's a lot easier to change ends.

I'll have a play later, got bloody cold in my workshop again.
We had the warmest new year on record, but back to freezing temps now.

I think I can reuse the script from the light up ammo and just add a full twist to the thread, instead if a quarter turn.
Shouldn't need more than that.

Oh and I have just ordered a voxelab proxima resin printer.
Pretty much the cheapest one around, but YouTube reviews have been trending so the bloody thing has gone up in price by 20 quid in the last 4 days.

If I don't like it, I figure I can wait 2 weeks and sell it for 160 lol.

I also ordered some water washable resin.
Cheap as the alcohol wash stuff, but apparently really low odour and you just rinse under the tap.
Which sounds like a much better idea
Currently doing some research on exactly what wavelength uv light I need for final curing.
Well I've got a mate who's a top flight industrial chemist doing it for me lol

I did discover that aluminium reflects UV light better than anything else. So a foil lined cardboard box it will be

The machines run at 405nm and that's what all the resins work with.

But Colin reckons that maybe 365 would give a faster harder final cure.
And if that what Colin reckons, that's what I'll go with.

Yes! Another staff sling convert!

Those look fantastic! Looking forward to seeing what you can do with them!