Hirtius wrote on Mar 13
th, 2021 at 5:50pm:
Keep in mind the armors used in those videos might not be representative of actuality, especially the organic armors because they aren't Tod's specialty. The gambeson especially is too thin and using worse quality than what would have been used historically.
What Todd is showing in that video is not particularly representative of a gambeson IMHO.
It is, however, very representative of a "Padded Jack", a Standalone armour that was largely designed to be worn by itself. The telling detail is when Todd mentions 32 layers of linen. That is too thick to be viably worn with other armour (Unless perhaps you were using very thin linen). Not only that, I have a vague suspicion I know what his source is.
The subject of medieval textile armours is a difficult one... but I'll roughly try to break things down. When it comes to the High/Late Medieval period in Western Europe... there were largely 'Four' types of textile armours. Three of them emerged at about the 1100's. The fourth and final emerged at about the middle of the 14th century... and can barely be considered armour. I'll explain the first three.
From the literary sources of the period, 'Gambesons' started being worn around the 1100's and into later periods, but they were originally not worn under armour, but over an armour, particularly over hauberks, and were generally made either from as much as ~15 layers of linen/nettle/hemp etc, though it wouldn't surprise me if wool batting was used as well. Often these gambesons were made without sleeves (Such as is described in the Kings Mirror of Norway)
As this over-armour gambeson was coming about, There was also a lighter version of armour that was beginning to emerge as well, known as the Aketon. This is much slimmer than the gambeson, perhaps only made from 4-7 layers of linen, or a mix of linen + batting (Which gives a hint as to how the name of the garment in question emerged)... These aketon's could be worn over a Tunic and below a hauberk.
Then you have Padded Jacks. Also likely originating in the same period as Gambesons, they would have very likely been made similar to how Todd describes them.
As you enter deeper into the 1300's, Aketons and Gambesons are largely being replaced over time by Arming doublets and the Coat-of-Plates respectively (An armour that itself originated from a Surcoat of plates... Surcotes being decorative garments worn over gambesons or hauberks).
This means that the further Into the 1300's, Padded Jacks were also colloquially referred to as "Gambesons"... even though the 'Gambesons' as an over-armour garment were well and truly dead (Except perhaps in the case of Jupons... I'm not going to explain that one.) also... which makes the subject very, very confusing.
So all in all, I don't really think that what Todd has shown is thin. In fact, Jacks were generally made to be about one finger thick. That is roughly in the 1cm territory... and it is very thick if one were to compare it to gambesons or aketons. Those were thinner than Jacks. Arming doublets were exceptionally thin. They would all perform very differently. I have the feeling Gambesons or Aketons would perform very badly...
But here's the kicker... You can potentially combine aketons and gambesons together and essentially end up with a similar configuration as a padded jack.
"And such persons are to be properly armed with two pieces; namely, with haketon and gambeson, or else with haketon and corset, or with haketon and plates." Source:
https://www.british-history.ac.uk/no-series/memorials-london-life/pp33-36#p16And perhaps this is why the sources tend to state that Aketons should have sleeves but not for gambesons... It all becomes very, veeeeery interesting, because it would be impossible to combine the two if they both had sleeves.