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The trick to a good sling (Read 8131 times)
Morphy
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #45 - Jan 22nd, 2021 at 11:35pm
 
Nice video Joe. The slow motion worked perfectly for showing what was really going on.

Here's my problem with this whole idea... we are debating on cords as they are while not in motion. This is not the same thing as a cord stretched tight under tension. 

Hypothetically it shouldn't matter since if you do the throw the same everytime it should have the same number of turns and twists. I've honestly never had a problem with paracord. This whole thread just seems to reinforce my own experience.

I like the idea of having just enough stiffness to get the job done. Anymore than that makes the sling increasingly unwieldy.
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AncientCraftwork
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #46 - Jan 23rd, 2021 at 5:12am
 
If your strings already stay taut with just the tension of the stone laying in the pouch
your strings will stay even more taut when they are under the tension of the slinging action.

The way I test the tautness is by placing a stone in the cradle of the sling, letting it hang from my hand
and then twisting my wrist, and seeing how immediately the cradle+stone reacts to the movement of the wrist
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joe_meadmaker
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #47 - Jan 23rd, 2021 at 1:18pm
 
AncientCraftwork wrote on Jan 23rd, 2021 at 5:12am:
The way I test the tautness is by placing a stone in the cradle of the sling, letting it hang from my hand
and then twisting my wrist, and seeing how immediately the cradle+stone reacts to the movement of the wrist

That's an interesting test.  I did that with both slings I used in the video that I posted, and also a balearic hemp sling I have from walter as a comparison.  The responsiveness to the initial wrist movement seemed to be about the same for all of them.  There could be a difference, but I'm not seeing it.  Where I do see a difference is after the wrist rotation stops.  The thick corded sling balances out quickly and comes to a stop after only a couple of oscillations (not sure if that's the correct term when it's a rotational movement).  The pouch of the paracord slings have that slight rotation back and forth 4 - 6 times before coming to a stop.
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #48 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 6:08am
 
joe_meadmaker wrote on Jan 23rd, 2021 at 1:18pm:
AncientCraftwork wrote on Jan 23rd, 2021 at 5:12am:
The way I test the tautness is by placing a stone in the cradle of the sling, letting it hang from my hand
and then twisting my wrist, and seeing how immediately the cradle+stone reacts to the movement of the wrist

That's an interesting test.  I did that with both slings I used in the video that I posted, and also a balearic hemp sling I have from walter as a comparison.  The responsiveness to the initial wrist movement seemed to be about the same for all of them.  There could be a difference, but I'm not seeing it.  Where I do see a difference is after the wrist rotation stops.  The thick corded sling balances out quickly and comes to a stop after only a couple of oscillations (not sure if that's the correct term when it's a rotational movement).  The pouch of the paracord slings have that slight rotation back and forth 4 - 6 times before coming to a stop.



I hadn't seen your reply. You performed the test correctly. You indeed also have to note difference after the wrist rotation stops, that is equally important to this test. Ideally you want your sling to have a near immediate response to the wrist and very little oscillation afterwards. I believe there is an optimal projectile weight and density for every sling where this response to the wrist is near immediate and the oscillations afterwards nearly non existent. This optimal projectile weight would again change if you were to change the length of your length, and its thickness and stiffness.

I made a sling for 90 gram wrought iron balls. The cords are of paracord and the pouch is a tiny, just two overlapping pieces of leather that forms a small cup that holds the small iron ball. Performing this test the sling shows it to be very fit for this ammo, there is immediate response to the wrist and almost zero osscilation afterwards. However, if I were to make the sling twice as long, results may differ and for optimalization the cord might have to be made stiffer again. Same if I were to use a heavier steel ball.  The density of the projectile and center of gravity of the projectile also plays a role in this.

A sphere is by all means the most stable projectile on the sling cords, due to the center of gravity being exactly in the middle, with equal weight division in all directions. A sphere does not have ''weight hanging outside the pouch'', it's all concentrated in the center of the pouch. A sling made for spheres however tend to be different from a sling made for glandes which again can be different than a sling made solely for stones. A sling made for smooth spheres can and should utilize some sort of cupping for reasons of internal ballistics and the rolling nature of a sphere. Preponed releases usually happen in the final flick of the wrist, which can send a shockwave to the sling's pouch. If the projectile is not cradled securely enough to handle this final acceleration, a dangerous preponed release can happen. The only way to cradle a round iron ball securely enough in my experience is a cupped pouch.

Again if you increase the density of the projectile, this seems to tolerate the useage of thinner-strings for equal optimal performance regarding pouch orientation. This also explains why Balearic slings are very thick, and some roman sling depictions also, and also why people prefer to use big stones for strap slings. If you are throwing low density stones you tend to go for a heavier weight, which then again requires the use of a thicker sling for optimalization regarding wrist control of the string twist and oscillation afterwards. Lower density stones are larger, and if they are oblong, have more weight ''hanging outside the pouch''. The more oblong a projectile is, the less stable the sling cords become, thus the thicker and/or stiffer they have to be. I once tried to make 400g long oblong clay glandes. These were like 15-20 cm long so a very large part of their ends were hanging outside the pouch. It was impossible to prevent the sling cords from twisting on themselves during the slinging, so control over the pouch orientation was impossible.

This is why for fist sized projectiles. I prefer them to be more in shape of the 'Assyrian sling stones found at Lachish' and not oblong like we would like for lower weight stones and glandes. The  cords of a sling would have to be very very thick and stiff to prevent 400g clay pointy obloids from twisting the cords. A small high density sphere on the other hand seems to handle the thinnest cords when it comes to pouch orientation control, because of the high density and the spherical shape. So technically its possible for a thin, round corded sling to provide more pouch angle orientation control than even the thickest stiffest Balearic sling, granted that the former uses high density spheres and the latter uses crude stones.

If you want to achieve peak accuracy, it would require this technically superior and well thought-out sling, perfectly fine tuned to the uniform ammo you would be slinging, so that the pouch orientation control is to the wrist is immediate, and there are zero twist-oscilliations afterwards. Not too much, not too little, just perfect. Combine that sling with a lot of practice and you could become mythically accurate. But you sacrifice being able to sling the crude stone laying in the dirt. and that latter aspect may be worth more than the mythical accuracy.
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AncientCraftwork
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #49 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 6:48am
 
The question remains, do we want to figure this out all exactly, like they did with archery, and calculated the perfect spines and all of that, and put it down on paper? It would take a lot of time and testing. I do not think it's worth it to pin it down to an exact science. It's good enough to know the principles, and let our instinct and feeling figure out the rest
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Morphy
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #50 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 6:56am
 
AncientCraftwork wrote on Feb 1st, 2021 at 6:48am:
The question remains, do we want to figure this out all exactly, like they did with archery, and calculated the perfect spines and all of that, and put it down on paper? It would take a lot of time and testing. I do not think it's worth it to pin it down to an exact science. It's good enough to know the principles, and let our instinct and feeling figure out the rest


I have a plan for a very in depth video (from a layman's point of view) on what I've learned about slinging. It will go into detail. I agree with some of the points you've said. In fact some points sound very familiar lol. This is a good topic.

So question for you Jauke, why would a sphere need a different style pouch than a glande? Just curious about your thoughts.
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #51 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 8:20am
 
It's more for practical reasons. You can put a sphere in a flat pouches and sling it if you are very careful. Many flat pouches have some give and will cup the sphere to a degree. However some flat pouches are stiff-flat, slinging a sphere with those is asking for trouble, especially if you are slinging far and with power. Placing my wrought iron balls in some of my stone-slings is asking for broken windows and accidents. The balls require a specific sling, one that cups it reliabily, so the balls do not fly out of the pouch before I intended. Because of the smooth rolling action of an iron ball the cupping does not result in a late release at all. Any other shape than a sphere however does not roll as readily and thus does not really benefit from a cupped pouch, on the contrary. However a case could be made for perfectly round lead glandes (round biconical) these are also very slippery and could benefit from some cupping to get that extra friction and grip.
Because stones are seldom perfectly round, a flat-pouch is better suited for stones. That's also why they flattened out lead glans a bit, so they retained better in relatively flat pouched slings.

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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #52 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 8:50am
 
AncientCraftwork wrote on Feb 1st, 2021 at 6:48am:
The question remains, do we want to figure this out all exactly, like they did with archery, and calculated the perfect spines and all of that, and put it down on paper? It would take a lot of time and testing. I do not think it's worth it to pin it down to an exact science. It's good enough to know the principles, and let our instinct and feeling figure out the rest


In my opinion the sling is far, far more complicated than archery!

What this very interesting thread is now tackling is deeply bound up with interactions between a whole host of rotational degrees of behavior which are unavoidable in the sling, at least as used by a human being. The balance between all these behaviors (ie. how much they matter) depends on very individual slinger and sling and projectile characteristics, so we have to ponder very carefully which of those behaviors we are discussing

Some of the features are fairly easy to state in a way that we might all be able to agree on. I think the easiest to get a handle on is the tendency of the cords to twist.

I think we might all agree that twisting under tension is bad - I'm not sure I can see an benefit to it, at any rate.

We all know that if we put a weight on the end of a hanging old-fashioned ie. 'laid' rope it will untwist and the suspended rope will untwist more the heavier the weight we put on it. So we are converting a tension in the rope to a twisting movement or motion.

We still get the same effect if you hang a weight from a pair of parallel ropes with the same direction of lay, but now the amount of twist depends on how far apart the ropes are. You could, however, kill the tendency to twist by using a pair of oppositely laid but otherwise identical ropes!

Now look at what a braided sling cord is. It's a set of almost invariably pre-twisted strands all with the same direction of lay.

When we put them into a braid, the braid structure itself usually cancels the twisting tendencies of the individual strands to a great extent, but there is usually some left over - for an odd number of strands it's virtually certain there is. This does, however, result in much less twist under the same weight. because the tendency is now spread over the cross-section of the braid, analogous to having the pair of ropes mentioned above being further apart.

Sorry if this comes across as confusing or pointless, or excites any other number of adverse reactions. I'm doing the best I can to explain my thinking!


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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #53 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 10:30am
 
It also depends on what style we use. If we sling ''Greek style'' without multipe rotations,  and use a wide grip like depicted on the coins,, then you can likely get away with a ''little less responsive-to-the-wrist sling and ammo combination'', because you are not using multiple rotations that constantly rotates the pouch. I like to think this being partly the reasoning behind this style. With Greek style the pouch rotates around its axis only once and that's it. We also see the Etruscan slinging this way (we suppose.)

Whenever I have a thin sling, and only a stone too heavy for the cords (as it results in the cords twisting round each other during a multiple rotation wind up) I automatically switch a Greek style throw and that often results in a pretty good rifled release, even though the stone is not optimally weighted for the sling. So if you don't use a wind up you lower the threshold on the cord stiff/thickness required (for a good rifle spin)  I believe.

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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #54 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 11:05am
 
AncientCraftwork wrote on Feb 1st, 2021 at 10:30am:
It also depends on what style we use. If we sling ''Greek style'' without multipe rotations,  and use a wide grip like depicted on the coins,, then you can likely get away with a ''little less responsive-to-the-wrist sling and ammo combination'', because you are not using multiple rotations that constantly rotates the pouch. I like to think this being partly the reasoning behind this style. With Greek style the pouch rotates around its axis only once and that's it. We also see the Etruscan slinging this way (we suppose.)

Whenever I have a thin sling, and only a stone too heavy for the cords (as it results in the cords twisting round each other during a multiple rotation wind up) I automatically switch a Greek style throw and that often results in a pretty good rifled release, even though the stone is not optimally weighted for the sling. So if you don't use a wind up you lower the threshold on the cord stiff/thickness required (for a good rifle spin)  I believe.



Here is an example. This is a crap sling by all definitions, it has thin uneven twisted cords, with a 300g oblong rock loaded in it, which is way too heavy for it.

Trying to use a multiple-rotation Balearic style with this crap sling and this rock is a complete disaster. Keeping the cords taut and separated is an impossible task during the wind up.

But when I use a no-wind up Greek-style, this terrible sling deals with this big stone much better. Not perfect, but still noticeable better than trying to use this oversized rock in this undersized sling with multiple rotations.

If you don't have access to a good braided sling or well-weighted rocks, switching to a no-wind up Greek style seems only logical and very pragmatic too, because you can make use of more rocks in your sling. This is probably why this style was quite popular in the past. It seems to make up for some issues that are innate to simple slings, issues which proper Balearic slings engineered away, but not all peoples had this technology.

There is a case to be made for multiple wind ups too. I read that it can be helpful in gauging the stone weight and this helps accuracy. The Balearic sling approached this problem so well and it's probably the best trad design ever for multiple rotation styles.
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #55 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 12:07pm
 
I just posted my trash sling video a few minutes ago.  The final version of the sling used a single strand from the guts of some paracord (left over from the bullwhip I made a few weeks ago).  It's about as floppy as it could possibly be, but I will say that it definitely shot better than the first trash sling with stiff, springy cordage made from a soda bottle.  Obviously neither one should ever be considered a serious example of a sling though Grin
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #56 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 3:05pm
 
J you have a lot of interesting insight so maybe I can get your opinion on something? Have you used beeswax and if so do you feel like it helps with more than durability? I've wondered for awhile, and ya this might sound strange, but perhaps it cuts down on wind resistance and increases speed. Sort of like waxing a surfboard to make it slip through the water better? Any thoughts? Anyone can respond just curious.

If these sounds plausible is there a way to test how much faster it throws? I once waxed a sling a ton, it had layers built up on it and I swear it must have thrown a good 20% further. Didn't understand it then but it makes sense no?
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #57 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 3:18pm
 
Hmmm... interesting theory Morphy. Along those same lines, a higher strand count braid should have more divots along the braid, which would break up the turbulence the same way dimples on a golf ball do.
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“My final hour is at hand. We face an enemy more numerous and cunning than the world has yet seen. Remember your training, and do not fear the hordes of Judas. I, without sin, shall cast the first stone. That will be your sign to attack! But you shall not fight this unholy enemy with stones. No! RAZOR GLANDES!  Aim for the eyes! May the Lord have mercy, for we shall show none!“  -Jesus the Noodler
 
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #58 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 3:28pm
 
NooneOfConsequence wrote on Feb 1st, 2021 at 3:18pm:
Hmmm... interesting theory Morphy. Along those same lines, a higher strand count braid should have more divots along the braid, which would break up the turbulence the same way dimples on a golf ball do.


You know as crazy as that sounds that is a fascinating theory.
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Re: The trick to a good sling
Reply #59 - Feb 1st, 2021 at 3:40pm
 
Wax also affects the weight which might change throwing dynamics somewhat. I'm gonna experiment more with waxing slings over the coming months, I think it's a fair bet that in my neck of the woods you historically would have had a waxed sling because well, it rains, a lot.
It's a nice way to shore up durability too, though for me it doesn't seem to stick well with these tough grass fibres (sisal, manila etc), it's more applicable to hemp and the like.
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