I got big birch quarters logs cut up. Big enough u can get 2 or 3 bows per piece. If anyone is in the area. U can have some.

I wiil probably buy a hickory stick on the net asap, but inspired by how well the last bow shoots and how little set it took, I started another red oak bow a couple days ago. This one is 68" n-n, 1 3/4" wide at fades to 3/8" at tips and I am trapping the back. Have one limb trapped 7° . Hope to get the other limb trapped and tips reflexed this weekend. Hoping for less than 1 1/2" set.

Yes I have heat treated a couple of bows. One caught on fire The other not cooked enough. Trapping may be a saner approach. The ifs, what ifs and whys are what makes bowyering so interesting   
Hope you post the results of your experiment.

walter wrote on Jan 5^th, 2021 at 8:31pm:


I like to keep s’more ingredients sitting by in case things go bad. S’mores for white woods, craft beer for Osage and Crown Royal if I burned a Yew stave. Obviously the worse the screw up the higher the shelf.

Slyngorm

No, you should not draw a bow past brace and hold it there for more thana second or two because that will strain the bow and induce excessive set, which will lower poundage at your draw length. 

I'm editing this comment because I misread the previous post.

A low early draw weight is usually indicative of deflex or set depending on what's going on. While a lot is bad a little is normal especially for newer bowyers. It robs bows of efficiency but a little set like 1/2 " is sometimes a sign of a bow that's not over built so that's good though to determine that one needs a bit of practice and experience. Still good though as virtually no one by themselves starts out building very low set bows. It's a process.

Red oK 68.5" n-n pyramid. Back is trapped. Heat treated. One and a half inches permanant set. Forty four lbs @ 27".