I've used both types.
(Obviously)

How I use the rollers is to make the first glande, really carefully, adding and removing really small amounts of clay untill it's exactly the right amount.
Then I weigh that and always use the exact same amount for each glande.

So weigh clay, quick roll to rough shape by hand (couple of seconds) and a quick roll in the mould to get the final precise shape.

With the hinged moulds weighing is not necessary. You just drop the clay in, give it a squeeze, remove the excess skirt with the fettling tool., Squeeze again, remove any excess, and repeat till perfect glande.

The closer to the right amount of clay you start with, the fewer squashes, you need and the quicker you can make glandes.

The hinged moulds do need a release agent, talcumn powder or cornstarch, both work well.

The rollers don't need release agent, or at least I've never used any. Who knows it might help .

The rollers come in a lot more glande shapes.
Mainly because I was playing around when I designed them.

The hinged moulds just use the classic glande shape.

For technical reasons - the roller shape is an extruded flat shape, while the hinged moulds use a virtual glande - I am not going to make different glande shapes for the hinged moulds

So each system had its pros and cons.
And a lot depends on the type and consistency nof clay/material you are going to use.

For example. The biodegradable maize based 'clay' would probably work best in the hinged moulds.
The rollers are best for smooth stiffish material

So for speed with stiff clay, the roller - after some practice - would probably be quicker.

To use a wide variety of substrate, the hinged glande would probably be better.

It's in the box mate, and will be posted Monday
Once I've weighed the boxes, I'll either add more stuff or take some out

They are fairly big boxes and I keep dropping bits in them

Was inspired by jaegoor's catal hyuk stamp he's been putting on the glande he's got the kids making.

And it occurred to me that while small high detail is just not what fdm  3d printers are made for.
Stamp engraving is actually written on the laser

And yes the engraving is a lot better than cutting precision. It needs a better controller board. Given how good the engraving is, I know it's nothing to do with the hardware setup.
Just the way the cheap arse controller board drives the motors while doing continuous burning.
It does not like circles or anything that pushes both motors at the same time.

So I had a play this morning.
Engraved some acrylic.

I'd say that came out quite well.
The actual stamp is 12x19mm - so pretty small.

So anyway I'm now doing picture/logo stamps as well as the standard text stamps.
But you only get one image per order as the actual process is more complex than for the text stamps.

You'll have to test it

In the post
I was going to get it tracked, but it meant filling in a different customs form in the post office - so I didn't

Hopefully should get there in the next couple of weeks can't miss it, it's a 3d printer filament box.

I need to buy more crap as I've run out of small Amazon boxes lol

Made a wood stamp as well.
Added little knob on the end if the stamp.
Also made this one from a wood filament.
It's about a 50/50 split blend of wood dust and plastic.

I've got a dark wood one as well.

Interesting stuff, comes out a bit like MDF, sands well.

The actual engraved stamp is solid oak.

I finally got around to watching the rules of golf-cross. A very strange take on golf. I don't really understand the draw of it. Maybe it's easier than normal golf but you still get to smack a ball? that's the take-away I got from watching the instructional videos...

Are these still available?