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making a bow. (Read 13614 times)
Dan
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #30 - Jan 16th, 2012 at 9:11am
 
Start with the 1 by 6 bow. But if you really want a cool Lotr like Lurtz bow check out this guys tutorial.
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/45883/Secrets-of-the-Orcbow

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I was pretty good at slinging like 10 years ago.
 
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Arthur the great
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #31 - Jan 16th, 2012 at 10:42am
 
kjev your welcome

dan what do you mean start with a 1x6 all the tutorials i have read say 1x2 and aren't most bows at or under 2"??
      but it would be cool to have a bow lurtz it just looks cool
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Masiakasaurus
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #32 - Jan 16th, 2012 at 5:18pm
 
Arthur the great wrote on Jan 16th, 2012 at 10:42am:
kjev your welcome

dan what do you mean start with a 1x6 all the tutorials i have read say 1x2 and aren't most bows at or under 2"??
      but it would be cool to have a bow lurtz it just looks cool

Dan is giving the thickness and the length of the board. 1 inch by 6 feet. 1x2 is a measure of the thickness by the width, 1inch thick by 2 inches wide.
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Pikåru wrote on Nov 19th, 2013 at 6:59pm:
Massi - WTF? It's called a sling. You use it to throw rocks farther and faster than you could otherwise. That's all. 
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Arthur the great
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #33 - Jan 16th, 2012 at 11:55pm
 
ohhhhhhhhh ok that makes sense
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Dan
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #34 - Jan 17th, 2012 at 7:24am
 
Yeah, most board bows are about 2in wide sorry about that.

Though a foundational concept tht should be mentioned is if you are making a bow from a lesser piece of wood, just make it wider.
this way the stress is spread out over a larger area and your bow will not only be less likely to break, but will also take less set (or string follow).
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #35 - Jan 17th, 2012 at 2:35pm
 
I was going to start a whole new topic about this, but it's a simple enough question.

If you build a D-bow, you can't cut in an arrow rest, but the bow itself is about 1.5" wide. So the rest, be it your knuckle or otherwise is about .75" off center. How do you get straight arrow flight?

...okay, maybe it wasn't a simple question.
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Dan
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #36 - Jan 17th, 2012 at 4:45pm
 
I almost always use bows without a self and shoot off the knucle with pretty decent groups as well. the reason this works is called the "archers paradox". meaning that when you shoot the arrow, off the left side of the bow, it will first bend this way ) and then this way ( around the bow and then back to and forth as it travles towards the target, watch a vid of an arrow out of a selfbow in slow motion.
If you have ever seen wooden arrows for sale you can match the spine weight (how much the arrow bends) to the weight of the bow you have for better accuracy. So due to the force of the string it makes the arow bend "around" the bow. Now the less center shot your bow is the more spine weight affects your accuracy. So when making any kind of bow try to narrow the handle a bit, not only to make it more comfortable, but also so you can use a wider variety of arrow spines.

That's the basic explanation. For me personaly, I really don't see much difference in accuracy with arrow spines when shooting a self bow, especialy when shooting insitinctivly. But it can help a bit with consistency.

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Re: making a bow.
Reply #37 - Jan 17th, 2012 at 5:38pm
 
So it's in the arrow, not the bow... I get it. I've only ever shot compound, so I never really had to worry about these things Tongue

But I heard that when you build a bend-through-handle design you should never narrow the handle at all, that way you won't have it break at the handle when you shoot. Though, I do intend to back it with sheetrock tape like on poorfolkbows.com for insurance purposes Cheesy
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Bill Skinner
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #38 - Jan 17th, 2012 at 10:42pm
 
Crow Hat, a couple of questions, 1.  What pattern or style of bow are you making and 2.  Why so wide in the grip?
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #39 - Jan 17th, 2012 at 11:21pm
 
Bill Skinner wrote on Jan 17th, 2012 at 10:42pm:
Crow Hat, a couple of questions, 1.  What pattern or style of bow are you making and 2.  Why so wide in the grip?


1. It's a planned future project, but a D-bow, that is, a bend-through-handle design (probably maple, if not then oak)

2. I've done some research around and generally for a D-bow, since the grips aren't reinforces like other types of longbows, the grips aren't supposed to be narrowed or else they will break. Or so I've heard.

The point in this project is one day I hope to hunt with a primitive bow I built myself, preferably one of these D-bows. I like the design because I can have a more maneuverable bow that is about a 10" shorter than the one I'm in the process of building right now (poorfolkbows board bow), The design I'm currently looking at is similar to this, but shorter, closer to 60" (which is still quite long for a D-bow apparently) http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=26907.0 The bottom picture of the handle, which is stated to be 1.25" wide.

EDIT: Scratch out the part about building one right now, it just cracked somewhere tonight... on to the next one Tongue
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« Last Edit: Jan 18th, 2012 at 1:32am by Crow Hat »  

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Dan
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #40 - Jan 18th, 2012 at 9:10am
 
Almost all of the West coast short bows bend throuhg the handle and the also narrowed a good bit compared to mid limb. You will need to make the handle a bit thicker but it also makes it a bit more comfortable. I have heard of a lot of bows breaking due to hinges, really bad wood, improper design, thouhg I have only heard 1 or 2 cases of a bow actually breaking in the handle. as long as your bow doesn't develop a hinge in the handle, which shouldn't happen cause it should be thicker anyway, you should be fine.

The D bow is a good design, best suited for osage but works for many woods. With most whight woods you are going to have to make them a little bit wider than an osage bow in order for them to not take a huge set or break. In which case, narrowing the bow a bit at the handle is a great idea and will not only make it more comfortable but will help with your accuracy a bit too.

If you want to have one ready within the next week, buy a red oak board. A straight grain is very important. Look through the entire pile untill you find the best one, the same way you would look through the woods for the best tree. Make it 2in wide at the fades 1in wide for the handle and 1/2in at the tipps. Take the thickness slow, and adjust as you go. And the Tape will help too.
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #41 - Jan 18th, 2012 at 12:35pm
 
Oh, I see, they said the handle was supposed to be the "widest" part, but that might have been a poor translation meaning the "thickest" part. After seeing a few more build-alongs and other pages, I've noticed the handles are narrowed in most of them. I like a wider handle, 1 inch might be a little bit too narrow for me, I'll go find some scrap and test out a few widths for handles before I actually put one on the bow. Thanks for the help!
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #42 - Jan 19th, 2012 at 1:38pm
 
If you are going to add a wrap, don't forget to add it in as the width, the bow you referenced , the wood is 1 inch wide, the leather grip added 1/8 inch on each side for a 1 1/4 inch wide bow.  I usually just glue a thin piece of leather with a piece of toothpick under it, the toothpick forms a small bump, when I place my hand on the grip, it lets me use the exact same place when I nock my arrow.  Otherwise, my hand moves up or down, and as I shoot off the top of my hand, my groups go up and down.
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #43 - Jan 20th, 2012 at 3:45pm
 
Bill, when shooting off the top of my hand I sometimes get small cuts. Is this because the forward ends of the fletchings aren't completely covered by the binding thread or is it because the fletchings I'm using are rather stiff ones that I bought? How do I make for painless shooting off the hand?
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Dan
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Re: making a bow.
Reply #44 - Jan 20th, 2012 at 5:21pm
 
Yes, that ususally cause the flethcing isn't tied down well in the front and the quill is cutting your hand. The best thing to do is just tie more in the front. In extreme cases I have even seen pictures of the feather coming completely off the arrow and going through the skin on the archers knuckle. So best bet is just to tie it down more. Also what I do, depending on what material I used for tieing or if my hand is cut from the quill is make a kind of "ring" of leather that goes from your first joint to about 3/4in past your knuckle towards your wrist. This also allows for a softer and quiter draw.
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I was pretty good at slinging like 10 years ago.
 
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