if your weaving with paracord, like in a PJ sling then try it gutted, i find it easier to learn that way. pull the warps (non moving strands in the weave) taught, and try to pull them out ward when your weaving, like your trying to make the weave wider. this will make it tighter. then every inch or so of weave shove the woven part down to make it tighter.  thsi works for all types of weaves without looms.

thankyous for the welcomes and helpful replies !

well i just completed a new sling , the pouch turned out decent enough for me to give it to a friend 

the tip about keeping the warps tight was helpfull ,i think that was my main problem along with packing the weft
also i think the homemade loom was messing me up  this one i just did in my bare hands

hopefully i can borrow a camera to post pics up and share

does any one know if the number of warps should affect the width of my pouch ?
meaning i only had three warps to work with and i had trouble widening the pouch when they where to far apart from eachother

maybe ill have to try a 4 stand braid and just see how that works

Make a simple loom, much easier to weave when nothing moves around.  Have a look at the King Tut sling tutorial for an idea of how to make one.

I weave a lot of pouches.  Though I generally don't make them any wider than seven warps I've done them up to nine.  A loom might help, but I find them unnecessary.  I've never used one.  Your very best tool for making a good, proper woven  pouch is practice in my opinion.

I have found that although a loom is not necessary for many pouches, it can make the process a little easier, and sometimes significantly faster. When weaving pouches with the warps more or less parallel to the sling cords, all I use for a loom is a rectangular wooden frame, and I simply tie the warps onto it, and make sure they are fairly tight, as that helps to have a better weft-faced weaving job. Sometimes, if the warps of the pouch are also used to make the sling cords, and I am using a braiding table, I only tie the warps on one side of the frame, and I use the weighted braiding table bobbins to keep tension on the warp by letting the warps strands hang over the opposite side of the frame. For pouches like Tut and other Egyptian style pouches where the warp is roughly perpendicular to the cords, which I like to call cross-warped pouches, I have taken to using small peg looms, because they are quick to warp, and it is pretty easy to make the warp tight.

For a small number of warps, one method of pushing the weaving together that I have found very useful is to use my hands like heddles on a loom. Say, for example, that I am weaving with 4 warps numbered 1-4 left to right. Then I would lift warps 1 and 3 to form a shed, and pass the weft underneath them, pulling it snug, but not making it too tight. Next I switch and lift up warps 2 and 4 which will tend to force the weft down against the rest of the weaving, and I help that process by putting my other hand into the new shed and pushing the weft back with it. Since my hand is now already in the shed, I then grab the weft and pull it through, and repeat the process. I've found that this has significantly sped up my weaving time, and it has helped to keep my weaving looking more even.

-Timothy Potter