Thanks Teg- I generally try to splice it back into the braid if it's a synthetic material. Can you elaborate on the second option you proposed?

I removed the coloured threads, quickly finished it and cut all strings without tapering or pulling them into the core. It seems that for this string already one and a half revolution produces a stable result. But I would not trust it with my life 

My first sling.  I favored using this one for the better part of a year now.  Took it on about 13 or 14 Hunts this year for Hare and Squirrel.  Only 2 made it to the table.

Now this winter I'm on the quest for securing GoPro footage of me nailing a Snowshoe Hare.  Wish me luck - its alot harder than using the 'ol .22

lbfist wrote on Dec 4^th, 2013 at 9:12am:


I hope they were tasty
Great work! Not everybody`s first sling turns out so well made.

3 slings without finger loops. The retention cords are about 40 cm longer than the release cords and are whipped around the palm. The effective sling length can be varied easily and once you get used to it this kind of sling performs like any other. My preferred sling length I marked with a coloured whipping or -in the sisal sling- with a knot, where the cord comes out between the fingers. The "half peruvian" sling on the top I called so, because the pouch has a flat belly at the release side whereas on the retention side the pouch divides directly into 2 parts. All three slings have very soft and flexible transitions from pouch to release cord and perform very well.

Right at the time I have finally found out how to use braided split pouches correctly I got a sling from a trade with Dan (the black one on the picture, made of tarred bank line). Its performance is very good and after having seen how well the tapering was made with synthetic cords* I had to give a try and made the tiger sling. The cords I used are thicker than the ones in Dan`s sling and less stiff, what made some problems in the twisted release end. The finished product turned out to my full satisfaction, especially the pouch (bottom picture): a indicates the knee, b the belly, that I found out could be made more flat and flexible by crossing two strands on the back side, making a kind of reverse knee (c). The tiger sling throws very good, even small ammo is held securely in the pouch when loaded correctly, i.e. using Teg´s advice from page 269 (reply #4032) "I started to shoot slings asymmetrically, which means that I place the shot not in the middle of the pouch, but more towards the release end so that the belly is nearly under the stone or ball."   

* One reason why I prefer natural fibers is that you can easily add or remove strands in a braid by untwisting the cords and work single parts into the continuing braid to get a seamless transition. Also a drop of glue is soaked easily by natural materials. Synthetic cords are slippery and have to be melted at their ends.

Thanks again Lakeslinger and Teg, here's a link to a good tutorial
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ikoKfgm2SMw
He talks a lot but he's good!
There are lots of lacing patterns and even ring hitches would work well too