Matthias
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Gatineau/Ottawa QC, Canada
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Yes - this one actually is a really good candidate for the "loops on a string" type of construction. Glad everyone approves. I tried the tapered version I brought up above, and it works pretty nicely. I mostly remembered to take pictures this time, so here is a mini-article: Matthias Here is the simple loom and twine I'm using. Using a loop of twine instead of just a second peg for the warp (up and down strings  ) makes it a bit easier to manoever, and you can slacken the warp if it gets too tight. The twine is #18 nylon, and this particular stuff has a slightly sticky coating. Mason twine etc would be suitable, or sisal, braided fishing line, wool...
|  | You need to leave yourself enough twine to do the loops AND all the back and forth weaving (the weft). A good estimate would probably be 5 times the length of the pouch, times the number of warp strands. For this 8"(20cm) pouch, I used about 6.5m, but I ran a tiny bit short and had to compensate - the formula would give you 8m(320"). It's much easier to cut off some extra at the end than to add more!
Find the middle of the long twine, and fold that around the hook/peg at one end. Now using both strands, make two loops each. You should end up with 4 loops, giving you eight warp strands, as well as two weft strands at the top of the work.
|  | We're going to carry one of those strands down the side of the pouch until we need it at the split. This does make that side a little thicker, but not enough to worry about. If you *really* want everything symmetric the best I can suggest is to add a dummy cord to the other side to match. You could cut this flush when you're done with it - no need to tie it in as the binding will be more than adequate.
Work the other weft strand back and forth, making little figure-eights around the two bundles of warp - 4 on one side, 5 on the other. The key to a good looking weave is to not try to tension the weft at all. The type of weaving we are aiming for is called "weft faced" - when it is done you can't see the warp, the weft strands compact to form an even surface. This type of weaving doesn't have the "basketweave" look that say a placemat might have. It works well for slings because it's tidy. wider than normal, and the load-carrying warp strands are protected from wear. |  | After an appropriate numer of passes (8 of so - count the "bumps" on one side) increase the width of the weave by dividing the bundles into 4/1/1/3 (remember that extra one - but try to ignore it). You'll have a bit of a funny transition here, but you can figure it out! You'll notice so far that all of the wraps on each side go the same direction... when we add a strand it upsets the rythm a bit and you'll probably end up with a double row, where the strand you are working with follows the same pattern as before. You can avoid this by switching to the new 3/1 pattern just before you finish the last row, rather than waiting until after. The weft will wrap the opposite direction at the edges, and there might be a little gap, but this way will give you a smoother surface... Try it both ways! You can always back up...
|  | This is the trick to getting a nice tight surface. Weave in the weft relatively slack, and then push it up into the work every pass or so. I'm about to increase again to 3/1/1/1/1/2. The transitions in the body of the pouch were made after 4 back-and-forths, but you could alter the taper to suit the legth of the pouch you are making!
|  | 2/1/1/1/1/1/1/1 - 4 rows of this, and then we are ready to split the pouch. Finish with your working strand on the opposite side to the edge with the extra warp.
|  | Aha! Now we have two strands to work with - one for each side of the pouch. The next part is easy, just go back and forth using only the 4 strands on one side until the length looks about right.
|  | Same with the other side!
|  | Joining is easy - just tuck your original weft strand into the edge (don't remember which one it is? Hint: It's the shorter one! ). Use the other weft strand to work 4 rows of back and forth over all 8 strands.
|  | Taper the pouch down using the same schedule as the beginning. For some reason this seems easier, but you'll have to figure out the best way to approach each change again to avoid double rows.
Once you get down to the 2-bundle stage, lay an extra loop of twine along the edge that doesn't have the extra warp in it (the thinner one), continue weaving, covering that loop as well. We'll use it at the end to pull the tail of the last bit of twine back into the weaving, making a nice strong and tidy finish.
|  | | |  | Almost done! Pull the tail through (you might have to pull pretty hard)
|  | Snip the two tails flush with the surface and you're done! Nice Work! 
|  | Woven split pouches hold rocks very well. The extra width and stiffness makes them easier to handle than braided pockets, and the shape is as good or better than most simple leather pouches. Tie on some bootlaces or braid up some custom cords and go slinging! Maybe next time we'll figure out those fancy-looking peruvian braids?
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Woven sling pockets - now with instructions! (Read 51037 times)
