I'll repost it when I'm home next week - I can't find a copy on my local machine. Otherwise, I'll see if I can record another vid (and this time we'll send a copy to Chris, rather than relying on dodgy servers)

Matthias

WOW!  That is very cool.  Thanks for reposting that video.  I need to make one of these.  Even if you miss (which I'm sure I will do more times than not) it is impressive.

Brian

I imagine it's identical - most cordage that you see packaged for retail like this came off the same factory line before being rebadged.

I think my sling is getting softer with time, and that is reducing the volume a bit. Might have to try dipping it - 50/50 it will make it better, and either way we'll learn something new... Seems a shame to tinker with the only one in existence though (hint hint)

Matthias

Quote:

Because I don't know any better? Most whips that are meant for cracking seem to have fluffy poppers. You need it to be light for sure, but maybe the greater surface of the tassle gives a louder crack? Where's Funslinger (or Whipartist ) when you need them?

These are easier than they look. Really just a four strand braid, which anyone can pickup. Keeping track of the extra strands is a little tricky, but I'd rank this one just a little past the balearics (and well below any fancy woven pouch types) in terms of difficulty.

Like I said, my sling seems a little mellower now. Replacing the popper is an easy thing to try, but I suspect that it needs stiffening up.

Matthias

It seems like most modern whips use a nylon popper, either with or without a replaceable fall. The end of the braided section, you typically have a length of leather thong that brunt of any damage that might happen. The popper itself is knotted on (sometimes to an eye in the fall) and is what does the cracking. Old whips might have used horsehair, but everything I've seen on the internet ( ) uses some type of synthetic. They are designed to be easily replaced, so maybe that is a hint for my sling...

Matthias

Both subjectively, and the popper for sure. I'm planning to dip the sling in my stiffening mixture (commercial trawl treatment - polymer) and try replacing the popper with a new one that still has some of the resin stiffness intact. The popper gets pretty limp after a while, and the fibres start to break. I have a few different twines that I can try out as well.

It's entirely possible that there really isn't any difference between the way the sling performs now and when it was first built. It hasn't had *that* many throws put on it, and my original slinging was in an echo-rich environment.

I'll try the new poppers tonight and post my impressions. Then I'll try to dip the sling to let it dry at least overnight.

Matthias

Ok, I'll take the hint.  Once I get my leadcore line I'm going to try doing a standard 8 strand round braid, of hemp probably, around a leadcore core, cutting strands of the leadcore out at even increments down to 0 at the terminal end. 

I'm thinking of starting with 8 or 10 strands of leadcore.  Do you think that will give a high enough mass at the retention end to facilitate a good crack?  I have to admit this is going to be my first experience with cracking whipslings.  I do get a decent pop out of my tapered hemp braided/woven sling, but it's not that great since it wasn't the intent of the design.

I enjoy the braiding aspect of sling-making so I shall experiment a bit after I make my requisite shopping trip tomorrow. 

A few more questions for you Matthias...  Is your sling light enough to still be able to sling for a while without discomfort?  Did you have to make any adjustments to your slinging style to accomodate the increased weight of the sling or did you transition over without a problem?  Do you release from the point at which the cracker is attached or from the end of the cracker?

And another question for some of the science types...  What is your opinion of where the accelerating "loop (wave)" originates?  My thoughts are that it would originate at the release side of the pocket rather than at the retension end due to the motion that the sling undergoes during a cast.  I guess it would depend on style, but I am thinking that the whipping motion wouldn't occur in the retention half since it is essentially fully extended at the time of release.  Having never watched slow motion video of a sling being used this is all just theory at this point but I would love to get anyone (everyone) else's point of view on the subject.

Ok, off to check out where around here carries leadcore line.

Happy slinging.

my grandpa once year ago had a nice leather whip hanging on his wall, and he once took it down and let me play with it on the back porch.  (amazing i didn't take an eye out!  )

this was my first enounter with a real whip.  i was cracking it away, and after a minute, i noticed all these little fibers floating around in the air around me.  i took up the end of the whip in my hand and looked at it, and found that there was a little cord tied to the end that was falling apart.  it was a long time ago, but if my memory serves correct, then it was something like that really course, ugly, rough packing twine that they sell really cheap, but a more refined peice.  it is a pale yellow, and really uneven along the length.  you probably know what i mean.  anyways, try some rough natural fibers, like you said, as these may have good results, even though you may have to switch them out often.

whipartist still has a webpage up, and you could check that out to see what he uses, though you most likely already have.