For a very long time all my slings ended with a medium-small knot on the release cord end which I held in the nook between my index finger and thumb. This seems to work ok- but recently I've been experimenting moreso with smooth release cords.

I know when gripping these knotless cords, you still use your thumb and index finger to grasp the cord, however I find that this is sometimes insufficient for heavier rocks and I need at least a little knot mid cord to ensure safe grip. I would like to move to or at least experiment with totally smooth cords here, as it allows variation in the retention finger and grip position.

I hear a lot of people say a nice thick release cord is easy for retention of heavy rocks but in my experience a knot seems essential, my index finger can't seem to grasp with enough strength to pin the cord by pure friction.

So, in terms of technique- even though you grasp with the pinch grip, do you also use your fist to hold the cord too? Or do you just pinch grip the cord with a deathgrip that even high velocity 200g+ rocks can't pull a cord clean from?

I would test myself, but slinging doesn't come easy in a big city  :-[

I wonder about the material and construction technique. If it is pretty thick and braided there can be fairly large ridges that should anchor the fingers. I've been making slings with quite long release cords where I actually hold a fair few cms up the cord with the knot often resting in the palm of my hand. In this way, I'm not really holding the knot at all. Doing this happened by accident but I haven't seen much difference or at least not a noticeable difference. Again, maybe it's the material.

I am part of the group that normally doesn't use a knot in the release cord.  This allows not only variation in the retention finger and grip position as you mentioned, but it's also easy to adjust if you want the projectile a little more forward or a little further back in the pouch.  Obviously one of the issues that comes with this is that you do need to pay more attention to where the projectile is sitting in the pouch because there is no knot as a guide.

I don't have a set grip for the release cord.  I usually start with a hold between the thumb and index finger, but from that point it's just feel.  With a heavier projectile I find it quite natural to grip harder or to include additional fingers.  Sometime going as far as a full fist grip.  It also seems to be a natural reaction to grip harder as I spin a sling faster.  As Kick suggested, the size and material of the sling play a big part.  Some materials just have more friction and it feels comfortable not holding on as tightly.

A tab (leather or string) works well :)
Think this is Jaegoors

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I've never used tabs actually. That's going on the list. Of course I'm still waiting for that glorious day I get paired with Jaegoor for the SITH :D

In the past I've gotten slings with tabs from other members and they've worked well for me.  Personally I'm not a fan of the smooth release cord.  Maybe it's just that I'm used to a knot being there. 

You might also consider experimenting with a dab of silicone... it won’t add much thickness, but it will allow you to grip the end better.

I second the tab. Best design I've tried regardless of ammo weight. Thicker, stiffer tabs give a better grip than very thin ones made of flexible leather. Definitely worth a shot if clean release is what you're looking for.

   A wooden bead right below the release knot is a good alternative also. 

Eine holzperle funktioniert nicht. Ebenso eine perle aus Horn oder Metall. Beides funktioniert nicht. Durch die Geschwindigkeit beim Schuß werden die Perlen zerstört. Oder sie reißen von der der Sling ab.

Eine holzperle funktioniert nicht. Ebenso eine perle aus Horn oder Metall. Beides funktioniert nicht. Durch die Geschwindigkeit beim Schuß werden die Perlen zerstört. Oder sie reißen von der der Sling ab.

I've never tried a tab, will have to sometime- and the silicone thing too.

I think my issue with smooth cords might just be that in many I'm thinning them out too much, so that they are hard to grip. This is usually in my efforts to make a louder crack  ;D

Jaegoor wrote on Jul 9^th, 2019 at 3:53am:

Eine holzperle funktioniert nicht. Ebenso eine perle aus Horn oder Metall. Beides funktioniert nicht. Durch die Geschwindigkeit beim Schuß werden die Perlen zerstört. Oder sie reißen von der der Sling ab.

    It's true that a wooden bead won't last forever but they'll last through a reasonable number of shots and are easy to replace. Adding a bead isn't something I do much but my experience with them has been mostly favorable. 

I use a kind of "knot", one side is smooth the other raised like a knot. If I don't have a light grip I release late... I prefer it from smooth because of the belief ,can't prove it but seems logical, that relaxed forearm muscles allow for higher arm speeds and more control.

tried smooth and I pinch for very light stones and full grip on the bigger stones.

In lighter stones I can't see much difference but on heavy stones I really like the "knot" I use.

Rat Man wrote on Jul 23^rd, 2019 at 12:18pm:

Jaegoor wrote on Jul 9th, 2019 at 3:53am: Eine holzperle funktioniert nicht. Ebenso eine perle aus Horn oder Metall. Beides funktioniert nicht. Durch die Geschwindigkeit beim Schuß werden die Perlen zerstört. Oder sie reißen von der der Sling ab.     It's true that a wooden bead won't last forever but they'll last through a reasonable number of shots and are easy to replace. Adding a bead isn't something I do much but my experience with them has been mostly favorable.

I just added a small Turk’s head knot  to act as a bead on my latest sling. It grips the release cord well and doesn’t slide during use, but you can work it up or down the cord if you want to change the position. 

I have started using small beads. You can buy about x50 for a few shillings.
They give you the exact same feel each throw and release and are easy to replace.
Make sure the beads are not to big,  long oval shape are best. 16x8mm with 3mm dia hole.
I would really reccomend beads with para cord slings.

SRFF

Another in favor of a tab of some kind. 

something more aerodynamic than a tab may be just a cm of 2 of whipping layed over some stitching
This creates a very hard and grippy surface

I am not a fan of knots, and so I only use smooth cords. My 18" sisal Balearic sling has a release that is 5mm wide and 3mm thick. I find this is more than thick enough to throw 500g stones at full power. I actually prefer a slightly thinner cord for  ~250g stones (my comfortable, preferred weight).
Naturally, the deciding factor is the material. I don't have as much grip with hemp or wool, and therefore the release has to be thicker.

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Whipping. Four or five wraps then three or four. Two, one and run the needle down through the whipping and cord.

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I've added stitching for grip along my where I hold it and also tried whipping like Walter.
I'm a knot guy though. Just a simple overhand pulled tight and small.
Lets me relax instead of pinching so hard. It also lets me draw my sling without checking the evenness each time too.
I don't really like tabs but I don't throw big rocks either so that tracks lol

Double fisherman knot for me

What I've done recently instead of a knot is looping the strands in the braid back into itself, creating (1) an extra-thick length of braid that can begin and end where you need it, and (2) makes it so that the braid terminates in three loops, instead of six individual strands, which makes for a cleaner end and eliminates fraying. On this sling (see below), I have one "lump" at where my thumb and index finger rest when the sling is even, and another where my little finger would rest.

On a separate note, does the phrase "six-strand" or "three-strand" refer to the number of continuous strands used in the braid, or how many strands thick the braid is? The method I use to make my slings involves starting the braid in the middle of the strands, and then folding it over and braiding the two halves together, turning a 3-strand braid into a six-strand braid, or a six-strand braid into a twelve-strand, and so on.

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@ Captain_Twine


A three strand braid is just that - three strands. Doesn't matter how many threads per strand. Same for 4, 5, 6 etcetera :)

Tomas wrote on Jul 10^th, 2020 at 8:11am:

Lets me relax instead of pinching so hard. It also lets me draw my sling without checking the evenness each time too.

The way I avoid this is by gripping the whole cord or 'full hand grip), so that my hand is relaxed while maintaining good grip. After practicing with smooth cords, It also became instinctive where I need to hold on the release cord, so for me it isn't really an issue. I also really like the feel of the 'gradual' release of smooth cords, but again, each to their own.

Archaic Arms wrote on Jul 12^th, 2020 at 4:18pm:

Tomas wrote on Jul 10th, 2020 at 8:11am: Lets me relax instead of pinching so hard. It also lets me draw my sling without checking the evenness each time too. The way I avoid this is by gripping the whole cord or 'full hand grip), so that my hand is relaxed while maintaining good grip. After practicing with smooth cords, It also became instinctive where I need to hold on the release cord, so for me it isn't really an issue. I also really like the feel of the 'gradual' release of smooth cords, but again, each to their own.

I think you are the only one that has actually answered the original question of "pinch grip or whole hand grip?"  I have tried smooth cords again recently and am becoming more of a fan of them. As long as the cord is thick enough, you can get a good grip. However, I have to use a combination of pinch and whole hand. My index and thumb pinch grip the top part of the cord and then my ring finger and pinky hold the rest of the cord. It took some getting used to, since I usually use a tab.  But now that I've gotten used to it, I can switch quite readily between a cord and tab and it only takes a few shots to re-adjust.

IronGoober wrote on Aug 14^th, 2020 at 12:10am:

I think you are the only one that has actually answered the original question of "pinch grip or whole hand grip?"  I have tried smooth cords again recently and am becoming more of a fan of them. As long as the cord is thick enough, you can get a good grip. However, I have to use a combination of pinch and whole hand. My index and thumb pinch grip the top part of the cord and then my ring finger and pinky hold the rest of the cord. It took some getting used to, since I usually use a tab.  But now that I've gotten used to it, I can switch quite readily between a cord and tab and it only takes a few shots to re-adjust.

Recently I've been making my release cords slightly thicker so that I don't need as much pressure to grip 200-250g stones, as I found that doing some velocity measurements with my 22" Balearic, told me that stones in that weight range are optimal for power.
The 'grippier' the material, the better.
I do something similar to you in that I also pinch with the index in the full hand grip, and as I use lighter stones I put more reliance on the 'pinch'-style grip so that it releases easier.

I think I ended up with something like what you guys are describing. Slightly thicker cord and a full hand/pinch combined grip. I quite often go for smooth cord now, but also use minimalist tabs on some slings.

Ive been looking and i have only found 1 picture so far, anyone got any pictures of smooth leather release tabs??

I've actually changed methods since this topic started.  When it first came up, I used a smooth release cord pretty much all the time.  But when slinging last winter, I was having trouble hanging on because my fingers got too cold.  I started using a simple overhand knot (which greatly helped), and still do now.  Although in my braided slings I only tie the knot tight enough to hold it, but not so tight that I can't take it out.

darksidedsam wrote on Aug 17^th, 2020 at 6:39pm:

Ive been looking and i have only found 1 picture so far, anyone got any pictures of smooth leather release tabs??

http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1596827540/1#1