http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/ten_thousand.png
Saying 'what kind of idiot doesn't know about the Yellowstone supervolcano' is so much more boring than telling someone about the Yellowstone supervolcano for the first time.

Here's a thread to ask any kind of slinging related question. It can involve sling making, throwing, finding materials, etc. If the answer is out there and you can't find a thread about it, someone will be happy to answer your question on here. :) The purpose is to cut down on the number of duplicate threads on the forum by concentrating thre questions that don't involve discussion or debate into one place. Go on, be one of today's lucky few. :D Before you ask, check to see if there is already an answer here.

Well, this is a small question. It is related to slinging in some way, but somewhere along the lines of general knowledge as well. I was wondering, how the heck do I go about making that "round braid" explained on this How-to article? I've been having some trouble doing it and if someone can find a video on the internet about doing it, I'd be most grateful. I've tried Googling it, but nothing came around for 3-strand braiding, only 4-strand. Anyway, just wondering that...I'll await your answers.

That's a tricky one, but chances are you are getting the 'round braid'. Note that you technically can't make a 'round braid' with a three strand braid. What you can do is make one braid rounder, and another one thin and flat.

I think it's easier to explain how to do a flat braid first, since it's a lot more obvious. The best way to learn this is to use something flat, like a ribbon, and tie a three strand braid. When you're doing it, your goal is to keep all ribbons as flat as possible. You'll find that the tighter you pull, the less flat it is. It might look like this

http://www.sunnybeachjewelry.com/images/D/Leather-braid-plain-2.jpg

You can see how all the cords are just warped and shifted sideways, rather than tightly braided together. When braiding, you should be moving the outside strand in by sliding it sideways and keeping everything flat- no folds.

On the other hand, a round braid can be much tighter, and when braiding it should be up, bend/fold in.

I feel like this is very confusing, and I'll try to get a video up sometime.  

What's a sling? Is it that type of informal relationship that's longer than a one-night stand?  :-/

Donnerschlag wrote on Jul 12^th, 2012 at 1:45pm:

What's a sling? Is it that type of informal relationship that's longer than a one-night stand?  :-/

No, it's a wide strap used to hold a gun to a baby and throw them both for long distances. :P

Masiakasaurus wrote on Jul 12^th, 2012 at 2:05pm:

Donnerschlag wrote on Jul 12th, 2012 at 1:45pm: What's a sling? Is it that type of informal relationship that's longer than a one-night stand?  :-/ No, it's a wide strap used to hold a gun to a baby and throw them both for long distances. :P

I just tried it, and it didn't work. You owe me a new CX4. :P

I have gone on line and have found nothing, except the one guy who used one, but he does not explain what it is.

The Only TSS is a sling for shotguns called "Total Shotgun Sling", and that is not what you guys are talking about.


wll

Simple as that...Three Strand Sheepshank sling

Dilyan's got it, TS3 or TSS is an abbreviation for a three strand sheep shank sling. Instructions can be found in the FAQ's. The Beginners Thread in the FAQ's has a glossary of slinging terms.

wll wrote on Jul 16^th, 2012 at 11:13am:

I have gone on line and have found nothing, except the one guy who used one, but he does not explain what it is. The Only TSS is a sling for shotguns called "Total Shotgun Sling", and that is not what you guys are talking about. wll

This will help:

http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1251648259/0#0

Since I don't know a name for this I could not search it, but by observation I see that many slings seem to be made with an extra wrap or whip or whatever another name might be on only one side of the pouch.  I haven't checked dozens but the 10 or so examples I found all seem to have this extra wrap on the release string side rather than on the fixed or loop end string side.  If I've described this well enough could someone explain why the asymmetry and, if it is important, why it does not show up on most all slings?

Thanks,
-namuh1

PS Thanks to Peaceful Jeffrey for the paracord sling design.  I've made one and it works quite well considering my newbie skill level.

That part of the sling wears the most so it acts as a protection.Some people do it,some don't.If you have cords that wear quick,and\or use stones that very abrasive and\or angular it's very useful to have some leather sewn unto the release cords 4-5 inches.It extends the release cords life by much.
I don't think we have a special name for that.

Thank you, that makes perfect sense.

-namuh1

It's called whipping. Like jlasud said, it's to prevent abrasion wherever it's applied. The section of the release cord receives a lot of wear from stones leaving the pouch so people frequently whip that area of their slings.

namuh1 wrote on Jul 18^th, 2012 at 1:08pm:

Since I don't know a name for this I could not search it, but by observation I see that many slings seem to be made with an extra wrap or whip or whatever another name might be on only one side of the pouch.  I haven't checked dozens but the 10 or so examples I found all seem to have this extra wrap on the release string side rather than on the fixed or loop end string side.  If I've described this well enough could someone explain why the asymmetry and, if it is important, why it does not show up on most all slings? Thanks, -namuh1 PS Thanks to Peaceful Jeffrey for the paracord sling design.  I've made one and it works quite well considering my newbie skill level.

As the other guy said, it can help with longevity. If you make a 'simple braided sling' type finger loop with the 'folded over' cord and you have a leather pouch with holes. I will usually pull the cord through a bit and whip it rather than tie a knot at the pouch/cord transition. I prefer to whip with simple paracord/leather slings as well.

Hello,

I have been slinging for a few weeks and I want to upgrade from my cheap string (2mm thick) and cloth sling.

I have seen tutorials on how to make slings out of one long piece of string. Does anybody know where I could buy string?

Also, how thick should the string be? (I want to try making the one that has the string split in 2 to make a pouch, sorry don't know what it's actually called :-[)

Thanks in advance.

Most large department store have string as do most hobby/craft shops.  You can also use yarn.  Baling twine also works.  Commercial fishing and just plain fishing shops have twine, usually synthetic.  Military surplus stores have paracord.  

And don't forget that you can buy twine, para cord, and rope at hardware stores. Cord thickness depends a lot on how you make the sling. You're going to have to be more specific about what type of sling ou want to make.

Also at euro stores, or dollar stores in youre case, just got some very cheap cotton twine at one such store just today.

If you live near a farm you could get lots of free bailing twine.

Fabric stores, hardwares, building suppliers.

Or just harvest some hawthorn or rose bushes and make a bramble fibre sling!

At hobby lobby you can get some excellent jute cord.  I recently got some and love it.  It's a little thinner than macrame core, but not too thin.  And there is a LOT of it on a spool; I've made three slings out of it so far, and have hardly put a dent in the spool.  I HIGHLY suggest it.

   Michaels, Walmart, Kmart, several dollar stores, Pine Hill Hardware, Tractor Supply, etc.. even Shoprite.  Shop around.  There are lots of good places.

also camping/outdoor stores and army surplus are great places for paracord.
And garden centres - green garden string is often jute :-)

I've been trying to make the T3 sling, and I'm rather confused. I made the single loop like it said in the tutorial. Then I western whipped up the side. However, now I'm left with 2 loops that I don't know what to do with. I have the loop that consists of three strands and will presumably turn into the pouch, and I a loop of 2 strands that is the rest of my rope from doing the whipping. I tried to weave with the loop, bu that doesn't look like what you did. Any help would be appreciated, and I'm sorry if I wasn't very clear. I'll try for more clarification if you need.  

P.S. This isn't so important because I can't even get to this point, but when I tried to weave with the loop I got a flat pouch. Going over the string on one weave and then under it on the other caused it so stay flat. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Thanks again. You guys are great.

Hold your horses, where'd you get a loop of two strands?

Try taking a long strand of cord, it should extend from finger tip to finger tip. Then tie a locked sheep shank in the center (it's okay if it's off, that's actually good).

West country whipping is the method that Rat Man and a few others use. It's a nice touch, but if it's getting in the way, then let it go.

So just tie a locked sheepshank in the middle.
Here's a tutorial: http://www.animatedknots.com/sheepshank/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

To 'lock' it, thread the running ends through the loops. Look at the final step, the loops on the sides are very clear.

Then weave a strand through it. Under, over, under over. Keep it as tight as possible

After that tie a loop on one end, and a stopper knot on the other.

~fini.

Thanks for the reply


xxkid123 wrote on Aug 6^th, 2012 at 3:50pm:

Hold your horses, where'd you get a loop of two strands?

I got the two strand loop from the leftover cord of the westcountry whipping.
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1338672380/0#0

If you scroll down to 12 you should see that it looks like he's weaving with a loop rather than a strand. I can make the sling the other way pretty easily, but ratman posted that he found that this was a better way to make it.

Hehe.

I'm in a hurry right now, but check this link out

It shows the weaving and pouch process a little better http://slinging.org/index.php?page=5-strand-woven-paracord-sling-tutorial---jeffrey

Hello everyone,

I'm having some trouble with my slinging. I prefer to sling with the helicopter technique, but my shots always shoot off to the left (I'm righthanded). When I use the underhand technique, my stone usually falls out. Any suggestions on how to fix these problems would be appreciated!

Also, a completely unrelated question: what are Aussie slings? A lot of people on here say there really good, but I can't find any tutorial on them. Do you buy them?

Thanks,

HunterGatherer.

If my shots go left while using heliocopter, it is because I increase the speed as I throw to get a little extra force.  Except you shouldn't do that, you brain has made a calculation for one speed, you increase it as you throw, which makes your release late, which makes your shot go left.

Keep the same speed in your rotation, that should stop your left misses.

Always start out at a slower pace and work on technique before you add more power. Start with tennis balls when you are still working on your control. Safety first!  If your stones are falling out of the pouch, you are probably getting a bit of slack in you cords. It can happen if you don't maintain a smooth rotation in your throw. It may also me that your sling pouch is not quite centered. Put a ball in the pouch and hold it still, if the ball leans alittle to one side or the other it can easily fall out during your rotations.

HunterGatherer wrote on Aug 11^th, 2012 at 8:55pm:

Also, a completely unrelated question: what are Aussie slings? A lot of people on here say there really good, but I can't find any tutorial on them. Do you buy them? HunterGatherer.

 Go to the trading post section and scroll down till you see the Aussie pouch thread.  It's pretty close to the top, and will explain everything.  

Brian

Left/right direction with a horizontal technique like helicopter is controlled by the timing of the release of the retention cord. If you are throwing to the left as a right handed thrower your release is too late. Try releasing just a bit earlier and you should be able to move it to the right. To get the feeling, exaggerate the early release until you are throwing too far to the right and then make the correction.

There's also an other technic to be more accurate with "helicopter style": Try to point with our throwing hand (the right for you) towards your target. Don't "slice" your hand towards your hip but "push" it towards your target.
Therefore you have much more time to release the sling and timing becomes less important.
The power in "helicopter style" (from my opinion) does not come from the rotation of the sling but from the movement of the hand from behind the head towards the target (this means from the movement of hip and shoulders).

My shots go also off to left if I try to "force" my throws. In this case I take a step back and try to shoot light and relaxed.

Style diclaimer: This is how I shoot. You may use an other style which works better for you, as there are as many styles as slingers  ;)

If you sling the same ammo with the same sling both helicopter style and underhand then I'm guessing your problem with underhand slinging is from inconsistent slinging speed. Dropping stones like that usually happens when you start off swinging very slow and suddenly whip the sling very fast instead of smoothly accelerating. If you follow Bill's advice you should be able to fix both problems.

Thanks everyone for your advice. When it stops raining, I'll have another try.

Thanks again! ;D

When I shoot to the left it is usually because I am not popping my release open. If I just slack off a bit and let it pull through then the release is too slow. I fix this by making sure that after the release my thumb and forefinger are wide apart in the follow through.

d010060002 wrote on Aug 8^th, 2012 at 10:20am:

Thanks for the reply xxkid123 wrote on Aug 6th, 2012 at 3:50pm: Hold your horses, where'd you get a loop of two strands? I got the two strand loop from the leftover cord of the westcountry whipping. http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1338672380/0#0 If you scroll down to 12 you should see that it looks like he's weaving with a loop rather than a strand. I can make the sling the other way pretty easily, but ratman posted that he found that this was a better way to make it.

 It is an easier way to make it but you have to read ALL of the instructions.  Go back up to #6 and you see that we've doubled the weft, or weaving cord.  The loop you're referring to is simply a doubled piece of line.  Doubling the line is optional, as it says, but you'll find it can be very helpful if you need to add more cord to the weft.  # 13, 14, and 15 show you how to add more cord to your weft.  

Was wondering if certain designs compliment certain styles. Like does a braided split do better in overhand or something. Or should any style perform equally well with whatever release technique?

That's really a good question. As far as I know, there has been no study done to investigate this. :-?

Thin splits work better with quicker releases, same for slings that have very heavy or large pouches, and very soft cords. Thin splits can release a stone early, so swinging it around a billion times is asking for misfire. When pouch to cord is POUCH to cord then the cords can tangle together if you spin it too many times.

Otherwise I haven't noticed much of a difference.

Oh ok. This has been goin through my head lately

You can't really notice that well with most slings/styles. Ther'e a fair bit of Ideal styles for sling lengths, but not really that much difference between sling types.

A split pouch handles different sized, and especially the larger, projectiles better.  Solid pouches handle smaller projectiles, such as the various metal projectiles, a whole lot better.  A smaller cord will open quicker, so it goes better with a solid pouch, which is usually smaller.  As to style of slinging, this is a personal opinion, I like a split for the heliocopter styles, the glandes seem to "settle" in the pouch and make my releases more consistent.  This is especially true with big jagged rocks.  I have found that a solid pouch works well with underhand and figure 8, particularly with egg sinkers and ball bearings.

balearic target suits shorter heavier slings.

Fig 8 suits longer more flexible slings.

The rest are pretty much interchangeable.
Although a stiffer corded sling would work well with greek style.

I am practicing new braids and knots and have a question.  So I have gotten good at the 4-strand round braid and I am trying to figure out how to double it around for the finger loop and then together to form an 8-strand.  Is it simply doubling up on the strands?  Is there a more complex braid that you could use to individually braid each strand still forming a round cord?

Thanks!

-Mitch

I've never tried to do it with 8 seperate strands. I think it might work, but it will be more difficult to keep track of them all. I would just double up the cords, so I'm still working with 4 strands.

If you end with the finger loop:
Have a look at this: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-a-Four-Strand-Braided-Leash-From-Parac/step7/Measuring-the-Braid-For-the-Handle-Loop/  (technique used: Splicing)

Otherwise you could also do an eye splice: http://www.animatedknots.com/splice/index.php

If you start with the finger loop:
You could just double it up, like around the finger 4 strand and afterwards 4 strand with two strings each. (see http://slinging.org/index.php?page=a-simple-braided-sling-in-20-steps---jeff-holt)

You can also do an 8 strand round braid. For 8 strand round braid see: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-4-or-8-Part-Round-Braid.

Corrigendum: The eye splice is not suited for this, as you have to have a twisted rope and not a braided rope.

Thank you so much Teg!  Most informative indeed! :)

You can also try 8 strand kumihimo braiding. In general if you do the same steps as a smaller braid with more strands it will scale up, so and 8 strand braid will work just like a 4 strand one.

Hey, just curious, are some slinging styles more suited to differently built people? for example, would a shorter person be better off using a different style than a taller person?

Hi, timu;
  Welcome to slinging.org.  Though we all have different favorite styles and all body types are represented here, IMO no style favors a particular body type.  None I can think of off the top of my head anyway.  

Yeah, throwing styles aren't correlated with body type. My best explanation is that a sling length is based on your own height already, so everything should work out.

yep pretty much just down to sling length.

Right on, on a side note, what is a masiakasaurus?

I have a few questions about rivets and riveting.  So I have a few "Pop" Rivetools (open ended rivet with a mandrel running through), I read that open end rivets can be used for soft materials (leather) as well as what all I have used them on.  I have repeatedly attempted to punch out the mandrel after snapping the shaft to no avail.  Can someone please tell me if there is a way to consistently remove the mandrel head from the rivet to facilitate hammering the flared end flat?  I am simply attempting to make the rivet altogether lighter by removing the steel mandrel head.  I saw the riveted Captain Paul slings and was inspired but have hit a major snag.  Am I using the wrong type of rivet?

Also, what tool would I want to get to facilitate stringing paracord through?  I saw a few slings on this site doing it.  I thought an open end rivet would work but hit two snags; the mandrel head, and when I could punch out the head, hammering the end flat does not leave a clean hole as the end is usually partially deformed from the variations in the head of the mandrel.

Thank you so much for your time!  I know it's a LOT to ask!

-Mitch

Masiakasaurus is a predatory dinosaur native to Madagascar during the Cretaceous period.  Thanks Wikipedia!   ;D

if you're looking to cut weight, try using eyelets instead. Although I don't think it'll affect the weight either way. eyelets are cool cause you can feed string etc. through them!

Howdy all. Was wondering what a"toggle" is and its function
.

It goes on the end of a retention cord and is used to supplant what would normally be a retention ring. You hold the toggle which could be a pice of bone, antler, or wood and the retention cord goes inbetween your ring and middle finger. Generally they give the sling a more secure feel.

When I use eyelets/rivets I don't use a rivetool. I buy the rivet kits from the craft store. As for a tool to help with stringing your paracord through the rivet, can you explain? I don't exactly know why you'd need something. It could be due to our using different rivets, but i won't know without a little more info.

Yep, a toggle is a solid handle used to hold the sling instead of the normal finger loop. You hold it like a push knife, but with a sling cord instead of a blade.

Found some cheap. Is this good cordage material? It had cool designs

Was wonderin cause I wanna take a shot at a seatbelt sling.

It should work for a seatbelt sling. No doubt real paracord is much better, but you should get good results for this purpose  :)

is it braided or twisted? Twisted stuff tends to tangle. You want the braided rope. Otherwise it'll be perfect.

Its braided.

You can make a sling from darn near anything that has some flex.

Last week I destroyed a VCR and I took the plug cord thing and made a TS3 from it and proceded to sling stones at least 70 yards into the woods. It was pretty heavy though and didn't really feel right but you get the Idea,

I tried with orange extesion cord and the end results weren't very safe lol.

Yeah you have to be carefull because it's so heavy it can come around and whip you pretty hard.

If you got it at Wally World, it's the same cord I use for my jagged rock slings.  It will be a little stiff at first but it will loosen up some.  It will never be as flexable as jute or hemp but I found it to be almost indestructable.

Yup, that's where I found it. Tons of it for 6 bucks ain't bad, and the speckled colors looks nice.

How do you guys make even weaves? I just tried to make a rockman and my pouch sucked because i kept trying to tighten the weave (the instruction said to make sure it was tight) which resulted in a very thin and very variable thickness pouch. Do you guys use looms or something?

The few woven I've done I wove my entire length, then pushed it all up to tighten. Usually when I did this I had done maybe a quarter of a pouch at a time, so it took 4 to five times to make a full, tight weave. Hope this helps.

It's important that the weaving isn't loose, but it sounds like you are weaving too tight. Keep the warp under tension so that it's completely straight and don't tighten the weft strand (the strand you wrap around everything else) enough to be straight. It should always be bending around the warp strands. After weaving for a little while push the section you've just woven to the already braided side of your sling to compress the weave and repeat until the weave is too dense to compress any further and is as long as you'd like.

d010060002 wrote on Sep 5^th, 2012 at 2:47pm:

How do you guys make even weaves? I just tried to make a rockman and my pouch sucked because i kept trying to tighten the weave (the instruction said to make sure it was tight) which resulted in a very thin and very variable thickness pouch. Do you guys use looms or something?

I think you´re confused a bit. Tightening the weave comes AFTER each pass towards the beginning of the pouch. What I mean is you should make a weave pass on the three strands, and THEN push upwards what you just weaved.

If you weave tight each HORIZONTAL pass, your pouch will turn out like crap (thin and uneven like you describe). You need to push tight VERTICALLY on each pass.

Hope that helps.

Weavers use a comb device to pack each pass through. I use an old comb. I also find it easier to use a loom. Most of the slings I make now days begin in the middle, with the pouch then weave and braid out from there finishing with the loop or release knot.

I saved this picture from another posting because the idea works and it shows a good use of what you might find around the house.

---

Hi, all.  Do I have this straight:

Belearic style = sidearm style with multiple initial spins?

Helicopter style = Byzantine style with multiple initial spins?

Many thanks.

Balaeric slinging has a pretty huge variety. You can see some here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNimz7JCTiI&feature=related

Generally Balaeric style has multiple slow rotations more 'behind' you than side arm.

You are pretty much on about helicopter though.

Thanks for all the responses. You were right, I was confused.

Hello all, I've read through all the posts that the search came up with when"sisal" is input, wanted to say that to put out there that I'm not being lazy and asking instead of working, and masaiakasaueous(sorry man, I am sure I just absolutely butchered your sn) I think it was, mentioned not messing with sisal unless you just like the other properties, I looked and searched, looking for any mention of dunstable properties, to no avail, so I favored I would ask, ogee got a boat load of it (couple thousands meters) and if it has properties that make out truly worth using, I would think knowing them would make me able to vary the style of sling/ technique that I use, so I can take advantage of those qualities, and asking will save a lot of time over using a couple thousands meters to make mediocre slings, that could be decent slings with a little bit of information


Thank you in advance for dealing with my ignorance

That's awesome that you have that much sisal. Go for a balaeric style sling (google it if you don't know what they look like). They are really simple to make, you can make them a bunch of differnt lengths, and a well made one looks great.

3 main options with sisal. One, If it's really even and not too fuzzy braid it as is.

Two, as you are braiding, untwist the inch or so of cordage being braided and braid tightly (This is my preffered method. It makes it look cleaner).

Three, Soak the cordage and seperate the sisal into fibers and take the longer fibers and make a totally traditonal style baleric sling.

Picked it up at home depot, I might have to try the untwistin, though, just to make sure I'm understanding properly, you are basically de constructing the sisal and braiding the fibers alone, an inch or so at a time, right? Doesn't sound to bad, will have to try it. But what sets sisal apart from, say hemp? Or whatever other twine you can think of (other than price and how hairy it.is lol)

Call me Masi. ;)

Sisal is stiff, wiry, and abrasion resistant. That makes it unlikely to develope twist over time, the pouch can be "cupped" and it won't lose its shape, and the end of the sling is unlikely to wear through. This also means it's unsuited to complex braids, kinks and bends are hard to get rid of, and sisal is hard to cut. Try simple braids, or using sisal to reinforce the tail end of the sling and stay away from Peruvian braids.

Haha, ok, thanks masi.

So I have been trying to to make my throws have this perfect spiral lately.  I should have guessed it would be more elusive than I hoped!
  My rocks definitely spin most of the time with the forward point of my rock leaning to the right and the tail to the left( I am right handed).
Basically how do I straighten this out and are there different kinds of spins for different purposes?

I use a relatively stiff cord set so they don't twist in windup. When I cast my thumb is closest to my head and my palm faces my target..


YMMV Good Luck.

What style do you use? it seems like some sort of overhand

jlasud wrote on Sep 9^th, 2012 at 4:27pm:

What style do you use? it seems like some sort of overhand

A very relaxed 8 with very large slow motions to keep cord from twisting ... I think a greek single loop into a side arm with a thumb up delivery would also work.

In theory any style that ends in your palm facing the target,and with parallel cords and correct ammo will get you a rifle spin. To be simplistic.

Hey, I think I figured out why the shots were spinning crooked! I use figure 8, heli, byzantine and when i was releasing the stone, my arm was not perpendicular to the ground( 20 degrees or so).  Now I wonder if I could twek it to use as a curve ball!!!!! anybody here mess around with that kind of idea before?

I have braided about half a dozen slings by now. I love their historic touch and feel. The finger loop and the main cords are no problem. I can do all the basic braiding patterns by now, but there is one thing I just cannot seem to get right, and that is the split where the retention cord goes out into two pieces to form the pouch and where those pieces come back together.

When I look at these pictures of a beautiful sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1232817549/57#57
I can see that each part of the pouch is almost the same thickness as the retention cord. How is the extra material picked up? Also, the pouch halves are lying neatly side-by-side while all individual stands somehow keep weaving in and out of the braid leaving no obvious trace of how the split was made.

I have myself come up with a number of ways of making the split and picking up material, but I am just not entirely satisfied with any of them. If anyone could help me with this it would be much appreciated. Something like an advanced braiding tutorial maybe?

I have pictures of the splits I have braided so far if people are interested in seeing them.

/S

Yes, could you post them please? So we can see what you don't want  ;)  What material do you use? Cords/strings or raw fibers?

A picture is worth a thousand words.  And if you are computer savvy enough, do a close up or point out what you feel is wrong.  Also, if you whip the area where it splits and comes back together, it will cover up the area and strengthen the areas of the sling where the rock rolls out of the pouch, which extends the life of the sling.

A Peruvian sling, or a simple braided sling, has a clean transition between the cord and the pouch.  Contrast this with a pouch joined with a knot like my avatar, or a leather pouch with two cords attached by knots.  

My question is: will the slings with a clean transition at the pouch/cord joint, like the Peruvian, be more accurate?  I wonder if the projectile will hit a knot on the way out, making for an inconsistent release.  

Yes, absolutely. I try to make my pouch to cord transitions as smooth as possible after filming this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJjFK68mn0w

I wrap the lower portion of my slings cords with some of the leather from the pouch so that the transition happens farther away from where the stone might touch. There definitely is a difference in consistency between a sling with big knots by the pouch and one with small or no knots.

As an aside, please post these kinds of questions directly in the questions thread. It's not a big deal, but I'd rather not have to move them. :) It's easier for me to move things out of here than into here.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Sep 14^th, 2012 at 10:15am:

I wrap the lower portion of my slings cords with some of the leather from the pouch so that the transition happens farther away from where the stone might touch. There definitely is a difference in consistency between a sling with big knots by the pouch and one with small or no knots. As an aside, please post these kinds of questions directly in the questions thread. It's not a big deal, but I'd rather not have to move them. :) It's easier for me to move things out of here than into here.

Okay, I will start posting here from now on.

I will make a Cliff sling this weekend and try it out.  

Here is a close up shot of my first attempt at a woven, 5-strand pouch.  Why did the pouch seem to shrink a little on that one side?

---

I'm no expert, and have wrong on many occasions with many subjects, but if I were to hazard a guess, I would ask, did you use a loom? And possibly inconsistent tension, but ghats a guess from my own mistakes

I've had that happen too. I thought it looked cool though.

I used the weight of my laptop and my toe for tension.  Must weaving be done on a loom?  I think I tightened the woven strands too much, or maybe I was not being taught enough up until that point?  I guess practice makes perfect, but I am led to believe that solid pouches made from leather or other materials are more cost effective than using all of your cordage on the weave instead of simply the cords.  

MrMasterplan wrote on Sep 12^th, 2012 at 12:30pm:

I have braided about half a dozen slings by now. I love their historic touch and feel. The finger loop and the main cords are no problem. I can do all the basic braiding patterns by now, but there is one thing I just cannot seem to get right, and that is the split where the retention cord goes out into two pieces to form the pouch and where those pieces come back together. When I look at these pictures of a beautiful sling http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1232817549/57#57 I can see that each part of the pouch is almost the same thickness as the retention cord. How is the extra material picked up? Also, the pouch halves are lying neatly side-by-side while all individual stands somehow keep weaving in and out of the braid leaving no obvious trace of how the split was made. I have myself come up with a number of ways of making the split and picking up material, but I am just not entirely satisfied with any of them. If anyone could help me with this it would be much appreciated. Something like an advanced braiding tutorial maybe? I have pictures of the splits I have braided so far if people are interested in seeing them. /S

Although I can't be sure how that particular sling was made, I've worked on a few Balearic style slings, so maybe some of what I've learned might be helpful to you. Here's how I make the split for the pouch:

I take the strand that would be the next one to be braided (Assuming a five strand braid is used, and that three strands are in one hand and two in the other, this strand is the top strand in the hand that has three strands) and I divide this strand into two equal parts, and pass half of it to my other hand as though I were continuing the braiding sequence with it. Now each hand has an equal amount of material, and the next thing I do is to divide the other four strands in half, so I have ten half strands in all, five in each hand. I tie one hand's strands together in a slip knot, and then braid the other hand's strands for the length of the pouch. Then I go back and braid the second half of the pouch to the same length. Joining the to halves together again is simply a reversal of the splitting process. One of the half strands is passed from on hand to the other, and then the ten halves are grouped into five full strands again to continue the braid.

You may have already seen this, but here are some pictures that show better detail of a split Balearic pouch: http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1232817549/95

On the sling you mentioned, I do think that a significant amount of fiber is added to the braid right where the pouch split is started. In the picture, the braid pattern is obscured at that point, and I think it is because of the ends of the added fibers. I'm not entirely sure about how the Balearic sling makers add fiber to their slings, but I think it is done by adding a clump of fiber to one strand at a time. If you look at this sling http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1172017416/1509#1509, you can notice the trimmed off ends of the clumps at several places along the length of the sling. So my guess would be that when the divide for the pouch is made, enough fiber is added to each strand of the braid to double the thickness. One thing I have found to be important when adding material to a strand, whether I'm braiding with fibers or with twine or string, is to twist the strand and the added material tightly together as I braid them. This helps a lot to secure the added material and keep it from unraveling.

-Timothy Potter

mitchrobinson wrote on Sep 15^th, 2012 at 7:10pm:

I used the weight of my laptop and my toe for tension.  Must weaving be done on a loom?  I think I tightened the woven strands too much, or maybe I was not being taught enough up until that point?  I guess practice makes perfect, but I am led to believe that solid pouches made from leather or other materials are more cost effective than using all of your cordage on the weave instead of simply the cords.

I'm not so sure about cost efficiency, ghats not my strong suit. And no, a loom is absolutely not required, but it make s everything a little but easier for me, a loom can be constructed on the cheap too, I've made do with a2x4 and a couple if nails with the heads cut of f you may want to try for a weft faced weave (I'm potty sure ghats what its called lol) where you don't tension the chord your moving over and under at all, it looks pretty neat, and I know theres a tutorial on here showing how to accomplish it if I was at all vauge, let me know if you can't find it, I'll post a link

mitchrobinson wrote on Sep 15^th, 2012 at 7:10pm:

I used the weight of my laptop and my toe for tension.  Must weaving be done on a loom?  I think I tightened the woven strands too much, or maybe I was not being taught enough up until that point?  I guess practice makes perfect, but I am led to believe that solid pouches made from leather or other materials are more cost effective than using all of your cordage on the weave instead of simply the cords.

   For such a simple sling a loom is not necessary.  IMO you just need a little practice.  It will come to you.  Your pouch could have been woven a bit tighter.  As you weave pull up fairly hard on the lengthwise strands (warp) every so often.  This will tighten up your pouch and give it a nice cupped shape.
 I never use a loom, but I don't make slings that are as complex as some that Timothy Potter and some other members make.   The slings I make with woven pouches are the TS3, pj, Cobra, Rockman, and some experimental models.  For these types of pouches I find that a loom is unnecessary.  I prefer woven pouches to those made of leather or other materials.  Woven pouches can be formed to an shape you desire and they provide cupping, which makes them much easier to use.  I do have leather pouch and other non-woven slings that I like and enjoy using but my favorite slings usually have woven pouches.  
  The pouch you made really isn't bad looking and I'm sure it will work just fine.

Tomas wrote on Sep 13^th, 2012 at 9:54am:

Hey, I think I figured out why the shots were spinning crooked! I use figure 8, heli, byzantine and when i was releasing the stone, my arm was not perpendicular to the ground( 20 degrees or so).  Now I wonder if I could twek it to use as a curve ball!!!!! anybody here mess around with that kind of idea before?

   It's difficult to get most ammo to curve significantly.  The exception is golf balls.  If you want your ammo to curve try them.  

Bibbs wrote on Sep 7^th, 2012 at 8:06am:

Picked it up at home depot, I might have to try the untwistin, though, just to make sure I'm understanding properly, you are basically de constructing the sisal and braiding the fibers alone, an inch or so at a time, right? Doesn't sound to bad, will have to try it. But what sets sisal apart from, say hemp? Or whatever other twine you can think of (other than price and how hairy it.is lol)

  I've made some good slings with sisal but it's not my favorite material.  It's very tough on the hands after a while.. sort of like braiding fiberglass.  Hemp is softer, more pliable, and consequently easier to work with.  My favorite natural material is jute.  It's strong enough, soft and easy to work with, tangle resistant, as cheap as dirt, and the finished product has a nice rustic look to it.  Cotton is another natural material that  is easy to work with and makes a nice sling.  

Helpful fellow slingers, I have a couple of questions today:

1) Try as I might, I can't keep my braided cords from twisting.  Does anyone else experience this?

2) On the windup in the Byzantine style, as the fist approaches the forehead, it seems better to turn the back of the hand (as opposed to the palm) towards the forehead.  I get more power this way.  Does this match your experience?

3) What came first, the sling or atlatl?  I just watched "Quest for Fire," and they depicted Atlatls, but not slings.

Thanks as always.

vegemite wrote on Sep 16^th, 2012 at 1:49pm:

Helpful fellow slingers, I have a couple of questions today: 1) Try as I might, I can't keep my braided cords from twisting.  Does anyone else experience this? 2) On the windup in the Byzantine style, as the fist approaches the forehead, it seems better to turn the back of the hand (as opposed to the palm) towards the forehead.  I get more power this way.  Does this match your experience? 3) What came first, the sling or atlatl?  I just watched "Quest for Fire," and they depicted Atlatls, but not slings. Thanks as always.

For 1) What are you using? An even or odd number of strands? Braidings with an even number of strands are much more likely to twist from my experience. Therefore I usually use 3, 5 or 7 strand braids.
Furter pay attention that you always tighten the strand equally on both sides, as one hand is usually stronger than the other.

For 2) I never paid attention to this ;-)

For 3) http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1346498940/0#0

Teg, I made a simple Cliff Dan Bollinger sling with 3 strand braids.

1. Twist may come from too much tension as you braid, uneven thickness of the cords you braid with, twisting of the individual cords in the braid because of your technique, etc. Pics would be helpful.

2. Doesn't matter what my experience is as long as it works for you. To answer your question, though; I do the same thing with my wrist as you describe.

3. Nobody knows for sure. I think atlatl came first and was developed directly into the sling and the bow by different cultures. I'm sure there are people who think the sling came first, the atlatl evolved from the sling, and the bow evolved from the sling. There's not really enough evidence to say that the sling or the atlatl came first, although I think it's pretty certain that the bow came after both of those two.

This one: http://slinging.org/index.php?page=woven-pouch-sling---colin-philips   ?

That's woven and not braided and I don't have so much experience with weaving  ;)
Maybe your base cords you weave around are not of the same length or have a different tension?

I don't agree with Masia in one point: Too much tension does not cause the braid to twist. I braid my slings so tight that the release end stands horizontally for 10 cm for itself without bending. Uneven tension is an other question.

Sorry, I meant Dan Bollinger with jute.

Teg wrote on Sep 16^th, 2012 at 5:18pm:

I don't agree with Masia in one point: Too much tension does not cause the braid to twist.

Nonsense! You're only saying that because it never has. ;)

My experience says differently. Regardless, we can't know without seeing the braid in question. I ask again, pictures?

What is the type of rope used called? I'm new to slinging but I don't know what the type of rope to use is called so I can't ask where I could buy some  :-[

Here is a picture of my sling.  Hopefully you can see the twist.  I tapered the release cord.  This is cheap jute twine from the hardware store meant for gardening.  Thanks.

---

Alex:
Quote:

A rope is a linear collection of plies, yarns or strands which are twisted or braided together in order to combine them into a larger and stronger form. Ropes have tensile strength and so can be used for dragging and lifting, but are far too flexible to provide compressive strength. As a result, they cannot be used for pushing or similar compressive applications. Rope is thicker and stronger than similarly constructed cord, line, string, and twine.

You want either cord or twine. Any kind will do. Twine is for braiding, cord is too thick for that, and rope is too thick for slinging. If you're asking about a specific kind of cord or twine, can you discribe it? Then I can give you a specific answer.

Veg: try untwisting the cords slightly as you braid them or flipping half of the strands upside down so that their inherent twist will cancel out instead of compounding upon each other. To fix the current sling, wet it and hang it from a shower curtain by the pouch, without any twist. Bind the ends of the sling together with twine and hang a weight from the sling as it dries. If that doesn't work repeat, except with counter twist in the sling as it dries.

Masi, good advice, thanks.

I had a sling like that but it had around 5x as many twist and it was a balaeric style masonry cord sling.

I could untwist it before every shot but that really annoyed me so I just completely undid it and rebraided it with a 3 strand instead of a 5 strand braid. It is now my favorite sling, and it has been since may. Masi's suggestion should work with natural cords though.

Hello,


I have a growing interest in slings and am practicing the side arm technique (I had some wild throws with the helicopter technique that led to many lost balls  :-[).

I watched the videos on this site for side arm and have a few questions.  Could any one help me with the following:

- What are some tips to increase velocity and accuracy with the side arm technique?
- Do you point or follow though with your hand as the projectile is released?
- Does your shoulder play any part?
-How do you obtain maximum rotational speed before the release?

Thanks...

Yes, I definitely use my shoulder in sidearm....although it's almost all in a vertical capacity.

As far as increasing speed, I try to tighten everything in toward my core when I'm nearing release (think cracking a whip or a figure skater pulling in their arms to speed up)  

Seems to suit me well.

Hello and welcome, Cryptic;
   Often it's helpful to include a video of your slinging if you're able to.  
   One way to help with your velocity and accuracy is to sling at about 80% of your full strength.  You'll notice very little or no change in velocity and your accuracy should improve instantly.
   I follow through... IMO the follow through is an extremely important part of your shot.
   Yes, my shoulder plays a big part in my slinging.  
   With rotational speed, of course, it's only the last rotation that matters.  I feel that the best way to obtain maximum rotational speed is to be relaxed, make sure your movements are correct, and sling at only about 80% power.  If you're straining and tight it's very difficult to be an effective slinger.  You want to be smooth and relaxed.  
   There are many excellent slinging videos on youtube.  Many are listed in Aussies FAQ section.  l learned a lot watching David Morningstar's videos.  Brian Grubbs has an excellent Figure 8 video on youtube.  There are many, many other good ones.
Good luck!

Cryptic wrote on Sep 19^th, 2012 at 4:55pm:

- What are some tips to increase velocity and accuracy with the side arm technique? - Do you point or follow though with your hand as the projectile is released? - Does your shoulder play any part? -How do you obtain maximum rotational speed before the release?

-As with all things, practice. Don't give the throw a final "push" of extra power. It's counter-intuitive but the sudden change of speed will throw off your accuracy. Side arm throws are prone to going farther right or left than you want as well and high or low. Overhand and underarm throws tend to be off high or low, but will go straight ahead if your body is facing the right direction.
-You should use your whole body. Learn to lean into the throw with your back and core, push off the ground (without jumping) using your legs, and twist at the hip so that you use all your muscles and put less strain on individual joints. This is more applicable to helicopter and sidearm, but still a part of every style of throw.
-Smoothly spin the sling faster and faster until you're ready to throw. If you spin the sling like a whirlwind but the stones aren't flying very far then you are either deflecting your shots by hitting the stone with your sling (it happens to the best of us, but happens more if you don't follow through and pull the sling out of the way) or you are stopping/slowing unconsciously in between the twirling phase and the final throwing phase of your cast. Don't do that. ;)

Happy slinging! Try out other styles of slinging to see if one will just "click" for you. Apache did for me because it was just like baseball.

sidearm is one of the more relaxed throwing styles. And distance and power comes from using the whole body in harmony rather than trying to force the throw with one particular body part.

two or three rotations behind your back (aka balearics) will add extra velocity and power to the throw.

But the key is to relax and just go with the flow.
I find sidearm to be the best style if you're joints are hurting.

As done right it places very little stress on any of them.  

However I'd like to know if it has a name, as I'm not sure how I would say my technique to others without a long description.
Basically, I start off lightly swinging the sling vertically, holding it down by my side. It doesn't go above my waist at this stage. Then when it's gathered a bit more speed I swing it forwards into a horizontal swing above my head and release the sling side-arm.

Does this have a name?

Compare it to the videos found here. http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1260271797 it sounds like a variation on a simple (only one loop) sidearm throw. There's a video of a gladiator breakinga  window on youtube that sounds pretty similar to what you describe.

I found this video on youtube. I do exactly what this guy does.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEr85ZTqbcI&feature=player_detailpage#t=172s

Can't watch that on my stupid iPhone, sorry. Maybe someone else will tell you.

PandaMan wrote on Sep 21^st, 2012 at 1:06pm:

I found this video on youtube. I do exactly what this guy does. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEr85ZTqbcI&feature=player_detailpage#t=172s

That seems like the sidearm technique to me.

I'm gonna try this

Every one,

Thank you for your advice and encouragement.  I watched the Brian's video and I am working on the technique he uses step by step. Now, I just need to buy some more of those dense pink balls for ammunition....  

I like tennis balls as a safe ammo alternative.

I have a question about finger loops on braided slings. When you have found the middle of your strings, does it start there or should you go up a couple inches and start the loop? Any help would be appreciated.

To make the tapering easier, you can start braiding even a bit farther away from the exact center.

Either way, since I hope you have cut your strings too long, it should not be such a problem and should not have too much an impact.

As caldou said, give yourself plenty of extra cord, and make it in the middle.

Just for your information, as it does not directly answer your question: You can also start at the end of your strings!
Like: start 10 cm after one end with braiding the finger loop, then add it up and taper it, braid the string to the pouch, add again string, braid 5 cm,  split it, braid the pouch and taper it again, braid the release cord. Biggest advance from my point of view: you have an equal size of the braid at the pouch and at the finger loop. I started to do it like this, because the finger loop was always to thin and the braids of the release cords to thick for my likings.

PS: I braid with hemp strings and not raw fiber, so I don't know how it works with raw fibers.

Throwing in an opinion from the flat, tapered braided sling lobby; it's rare that I'll begin a braided sling from one end like the finger loop then end with the release knot. Beginning in the middle with the pouch allows you to taper your cords, reducing the diameter of the braid as you go which is easier and neater looking than adding cordage to  your braid as you go. You can double over one end and sew/whip it like my personal sling pictured here, or weave the strands back into the braid.

---

Thanks for all the information everyone. Y'all rock!

I begin from the finger loop, splice in more material to hide the ends, and splice again when tapering down. It leaves no evidence; the perfect crime. [smiley=evil.gif]

I've been looking up how to make natural cordage, and I found out that stinging nettles have good fibres for making cordage. What I couldn't find, however, is information on how to dry out the fibres. Is it as simple as just leaving the stripped fibres somewhere to dry, or can you do it by a fire?

I'm thinking of trying to making a sling from stinging nettles because:

• I have no money to buy cordage
  
• It would be a cool project. I would be able to say to people 'This is made of stinging nettles!'  :P
  

Anyone know anything about this?

Masiakasaurus wrote on Sep 24^th, 2012 at 1:54pm:

I begin from the finger loop, splice in more material to hide the ends, and splice again when tapering down. It leaves no evidence; the perfect crime. [smiley=evil.gif]

I'd like to see that. Can you post some pics or tutorial?

If you've seen any of my braided slings from the past year that's what I do. It takes a bit of time, so a tutorial may be a long time coming.

Or you could just send me one.

I got a good-sized chunk of black obsidian from my girlfriend's grandmother, who is a rock hound.  Would someone please point me in the direction of some good knapping instructions for beginners?  Pictures and/or movies would be a huge plus.

Thank you kindly.



-Mitch

You shouldn't knap sling stones, sharp or jagged edges will wear through the sling's cords. I suggest throwing it as is. AFAIK obsidian isn't good for pecking and grinding, which you can use to shape sling stones. Sorry, I don't have any tutorials on that though.

Mitch, go to Paleoplanet.  There is a beginners forum for new knappers.  Youtube has some good ones and some you may not quite be ready for, just type in beginning flintknapping.  Best is to go to a knap in, most knappers will sit down with and walk you through making a point.

I never intended on destroying perfectly good volcanic glass, or a sling for that matter, by slinging with it.  That would make absolutely no sense at all.

I am looking for the correct methods for breaking some good sized flakes off in order to make small blades or mid-sized points.  The "chunk" is a bit larger than my fist which, by-the-by, is rather large as well.  I already mapped out the areas most likely to produce the size and shape of flakes I want, based on the way the obsidian is broken and formed already.

Alas; I could definitely live without becoming a member on another forum.  Thank you for the suggestions Bill, but I may have to wait till next year's Echoes in Time to sit down with a pro.  Looks like youtube is my last resort.

Well I have already learned much just from watching paleomanjim's videos on youtube.  Anyone wishing to have a very detailed walk-through of theory and mechanics behind knapping should check his stuff out.  Very very very informative indeed.

Well, "General Discussion" is for slinging related posts. For future reference this would be better to ask in "Other Topics." Not a big deal, though. :)

Hey any tips on a good sling for snowballs? Winter is coming!

Get a pouch from Aussie. They're big, wide, cupped, and waterproof. Perfect for snowballs!

It don't snow n Houston lol

I think aussies pouch would work best due to the water proof ness, other than that, about anything with water proof ness would work well

will do! I've been wary of split pouches but will take your advice! How do contact Aussie?

Find his profile and send him a pm or go to you pm box and put "aussieslinger" in the address box.

I almost exclusively use split pouches, they're alright. ;) Aussie pouches are more solid than average, though.

OK.  "Any question" coming...

I find that my length preference varies dramatically with the kind of throw I am using.  If I use an Apache type throw (overhand, < 1 revolution) I seem to be more accurate with a longer (36" - 42") sling, while if I'm doing any kind of multiple rotation throw, like a helicopter throw, I seem to be more accurate with a 30"-34" inch sling.  Is this a well known thing or is it just me?

-Brett D in STL

Almost everything in slinging is a "just me" thing. In this case you seem to prefer the exact opposite to what I do.

Hi. I sling but have a style all of my own (I think). I do alot of martial arts and the moves sometimes cross over so I'm not sure if my slinging is a traditional move or something that I have transitioned over. If I describe it to you could one of you good people tell me what it is called please?

(For the purposes of this description I throw right handed)

1) Start facing the target head on and with feet shoulder width apart while holding the sling directly in front of you with forearms parallel to the ground but with elbows slightly bent.

(2-6 to be done in one fluid motion)

2) let go of the pouch and allow it to drop perpendicular to the ground

3) keep it swinging until it is out to your right hand side

4) when it is out to the right swing it in one full circle over the head*

*5) finally when the pouch is directly behind you in the "full circle" twist the body to the left while bending at the knees to dramatically increase the speed of the last part of the swing where you,,,

6) whip your arm down to your left side as fast as possible releasing the grip when the hand is in front of the head.

Soooo,,,, what is this move called please?

From my basic grasp of some different styles it sounds like a fusion of "byzantine" style and figure 8. If I understood your steps correctly it starts from a position similar to that from which you would begin a figure 8 thow but then it turns into a byzantine with an overhead horizontal rotation.

The way I understand (and practice) the figure 8 is that the sling is held across the body parallel to the ground then swung overhand from the elbow. The sling then starts another vertical rotation that passes behind the shoulders parallel to the back. When the sling has reached around 180­° of the second rotation (perpendicular to the body of the thrower), it is then thrown overhand  towards the target.

Sounds a bit like this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAQannIFnMI

Doesn't sound at all like Byzantine, IMHO. http://youtu.be/WADQStF-Rq4

Try going through the videos in the Frequently Asked Questions thread and see what is closest to your style.

David Morningstar wrote on Oct 6^th, 2012 at 4:52am:

Sounds a bit like this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAQannIFnMI

The above video David posted sounds exactly like what you are doing. That's just a personalized figure 8. What kind of martial arts did/do you do?

If I want to cast a really authentic museum-quality lead bullet, what do I do?  Apparently I can buy one for $50-$250 online and use it for a mold.  Is there another way?  Maybe someone has already cast an authentic bullet and I can buy one from someone on this site to use as a "starter" for new molds?  Obviously I could just make one out of clay or wax and use that, but I was hoping to be able to say "this is an authentic reproduction of a...."

-Brett D in STL

The marketplace section is where we deal with buying and selling sling resources. AFAIK no one on here has exactly reproduced a glans using a physical artifact as their starting place. A few people do work with lead, though; and I know that some used pictures of artifacts as reference. A search for "lead" should be beneficial to you if you decide to start with wax or clay, we have multiple threads about that.

hi all hope this is the right place for this post

today i was walking along the beach with my dog and found a old leather welding glove washed up and thought to my self a could use that to make a sling after a good clean a got a bit of nice leather about 9x6 inch  to work with  :)

so heres the question witch is the best leather sling to make for use with tennis balls and maybe stones at sum point,

Take your pick, as long as you make the pouch big enough any design will work the same. There really isnt a "best" sling for anything. http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1318921055

You want to use full grain leather and stay away from leather splits.

Full grain leather has two sides. A smooth surface, it is called the hair side and a rough of fuzzy side called the flesh side.

The hair side is essentually the outer skin of the animal and the flesh side is the inside of the animal's skin.  

Leather splits are where the hair side is separated from the flesh side. This split is also known as suede and is a cheaper and weaker leather and more prone to tearing. If you made a pouch of suede it would probably tear at the attach points of your pouch first, where the strings are tied to the pouch.

Yeah, and in most pouches "pleather' will either tear or won't act as well as leather. Other than that, any real leather should work allright.

Just like in real life, thickness counts. Nothing too thick.

Soft leather works better than stiff leather in many cases however stiff leather seems to work fine in split leather pouches or similar design.

---

My Naschitti Sniper sling works great and it's 8 oz. full grain, veg tanned leather. Pretty thick stuff and not cupped or split. It's all up to opinion.

Is there a reason so many Balearic slingers use thick cords on their slings?
Does it have a practical value or is it just a tradition?

Thanks

Thanks guys a made the boat sling works well for tennis ball . It's Is spilt leather but was free so cant complain looks like the pouch may spilt as you said but am not to bothered will need to find sum 2 sided leather and maybe save the rest of the glove for makeing finger loops :)  what is a Naschitti sniper sling ?? What do you mean by sniper do u mean quite ??

Naschitti Sniper is a member of the forum who makes and sells leather slings. I have a Balearian. http://larronstraditionalleatherslings.yolasite.com/products-and-pricing.php

Ney, a little bit of both. Off the top of my head I can tell you that the cords have to be a certain thickness in order to sew on the leather that they use and that thicker cords are easier to braid than thin. They could just use another sling design or let people use whatever design they want, and that's where tradition comes in.

You may be able to find some decent leather in used coats at a second hand store or other community outreach and assistance facility. Before I had the money to purchase exactly what I wanted I used to hit the Salvation Army and Goodwill. As a kid, with an old Singer sewing machine which I still have and suede and leather coats from the second hand store I made quivers, gloves, mitts, hats, bags, packs, slings, whatever. You can braid strands of leather cut from old leather clothing and really expand what can be made. I don't know what kind of second hand outlets may be around where you live but it may be a place to look. I still hit the second hand stores for wool and fleece clothing and occasionally snatch up garment leather too.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Oct 10^th, 2012 at 9:14pm:

Naschitti Sniper is a member of the forum who makes and sells leather slings. I have a Balearian. http://larronstraditionalleatherslings.yolasite.com/products-and-pricing.php Ney, a little bit of both. Off the top of my head I can tell you that the cords have to be a certain thickness in order to sew on the leather that they use and that thicker cords are easier to braid than thin. They could just use another sling design or let people use whatever design they want, and that's where tradition comes in.

Thanks Mas, I appreciate it. It does make sense after I watched how they make their slings, they've got some interesting sling making methods.  :)

One more question, do round and flat braids have any difference except cosmetic?

Thanks

round braids - in my opinion - make for better sling.
Just seems to work better.

Flat braids can be a bit stiff whereas the round braids seem more flexible.

I agree with CA and add that the type of material used for your braid makes a difference as well and most materials can be worked to soften them up. Of course I come from the flat and tapered braided sling cord camp. The picture I posted is one of my personal favorites and the one I carry with me all the time. It has a full grain leather pouch and five strand flat braid. The whole thing is very soft, pliable and throws anything I put in it. Still in search of the perfect sling, this is a top contender.

I used to use a home-made sling with a wide denim pouch, slung apples and tennis-balls and occasional beach-pebbles fairly reliably with an underarm style (releasing on the first cycle).

I've now got a woollen sling from Amdocraft, and am using (or trying to use) the Balearic style I've seen in many YouTube videos including the Mallorquin competitions.

When I use uneven/rough stones then I seem to be making a good start on the Balearic style, with stones going increasingly directly in front of me (not quite ready to aim at targets yet!).

BUT on smooth/round stones or tennis balls, the stone almost always slips out as I spin it for the first time behind me, before casting it forward.   (Fortunately I've been making sure there's no-one near me while practising!!).  So, instead of being able to cast the stone forward, it disappears behind and left.

So ... help!  Any suggestions?

Usually projectiles slip when the pouch is either to small or too big for the ammo. Irregular ammo would stick better to the pouch because the irregular bits offer a better grip onto the pouch.

I've never used wool, it might be a very smooth, in that case try to use rougher ammo, like concrete eggs. Another reason could be that your rotations are not fast enough for the centrifugal force to hold your projectile at the bottom of the pouch and it falls out.

Maybe a picture of your sling with the ammo that slips through would help get a better understanding of the problem.

I've been reading a little about Balearic slinging competitions

So, we have a 0.5 metre circular target in a 1.2 metre square target.
From c. 20m, the men launch 5 stones, and get 2 points for a hit on the circle and 1 point for a hit on the square.
From c.30m they launch 5 more stones and get 4 points or 2 points per hit.

And children and woman do the same but from c.10m and c.20m.

So, the maximum score for a round of 10 stones is (5x2) + (5x4) = 30 points, right?

My question: what are a typical range of scores in the Balearic competitions?  What scores are the best slingers getting?

If rough ammo stay but smooth ammo slip out then it's most likely a technique problem when you switch from you initial rotations to your final cast. Either you are suddenly accelerating and jerking the sling or you are suddenly changing the direction that the sling is rotating. An incorrect or badly made pouch wouldn't be able to sling rough stones any better than smooth ones IMHO.

As for Balearic accuracy: http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1294085312

Masiakasaurus wrote on Oct 17^th, 2012 at 6:50am:

If rough ammo stay but smooth ammo slip out then it's most likely a technique problem when you switch from you initial rotations to your final cast. Either you are suddenly accelerating and jerking the sling or you are suddenly changing the direction that the sling is rotating. An incorrect or badly made pouch wouldn't be able to sling rough stones any better than smooth ones IMHO. As for Balearic accuracy: http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1294085312

^This, especially if the problem is occurring with a solid pouch sling. Focusing on fluidity and smooth throwing aught'a do it

Or perhaps your pouch is too stiff, too flat or too thick.

Post a picture of your sling.

My sling is as you can see on Amdocraft's shop:
http://www.amdocraft.com/shop/en/e10.html

I'm sure it'll be a technique issue given how new I am to all this, though maybe a bit of time will help the sling keep more of a 'cup' shape to it.

OK... I've been using a very simple style but am not sure what it is called.  Start like Greek, (pouch held in front in left hand).  Let stone drop, throw overhead in a vertical plane (like a helicopter laying on it's right side).  Like the Apache, but with the stone starting in front.

What is that called if anything?

Sounds like your personal variation on apache.

Hiyo! So I'm about to embark on my first four strand round braid woven split pouch sling. Tips and suggestions please!!

How many strands will you use for your pouch?

I have four strands which I was hoping to fold over for 8 strands total(paired up).

Begin your sling in the middle with the pouch. Weave your eight then join your pairs to complete your 4-strand braided cords.

Tomas wrote on Oct 30^th, 2012 at 5:44pm:

I have four strands which I was hoping to fold over for 8 strands total(paired up).

Like a rockman with 4 strands per side or like a Peruvian split pouch? IMHO Peruvian style pouches are easier to start on if you're going to weave a split pouch, and woven solid pouches are easiest.

I was thinking fat in the middle and tapering down...
like this essentially:
Matthias: Looped Warp Pouch
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1168848146  

If I start with the pouch and braid the cords out to the ends, how would I do the fingerloop without whipping? Some secret technique?

That's almost the same as a Peruvian pouch. I say braid from the middle and fold, it's easier to me.

Tomas wrote on Oct 30^th, 2012 at 9:27pm:

I was thinking ... If I start with the pouch and braid the cords out to the ends, how would I do the fingerloop without whipping? Some secret technique?

leave a length of un-braided cords. tie off the end so it will not unravel more. fold back a length to make the loop.  splice the free ends onto the retention cord. You will probably need an awl or ice pick to act as a small gauge marlin spike. take a free end and chase an original lay till the splice length is  4 times the cord diameter. continue till you run out of free ends. ta-dah ... a short splice...

Steven wrote on Oct 31^st, 2012 at 8:21am:

Tomas wrote on Oct 30th, 2012 at 9:27pm: I was thinking ... If I start with the pouch and braid the cords out to the ends, how would I do the fingerloop without whipping? Some secret technique? leave a length of un-braided cords. tie off the end so it will not unravel more. fold back a length to make the loop.  splice the free ends onto the retention cord. You will probably need an awl or ice pick to act as a small gauge marlin spike. take a free end and chase an original lay till the splice length is  4 times the cord diameter. continue till you run out of free ends. ta-dah ... a short splice...

What he said...

So, here's a question about fiber extraction (yay!).

A few weeks ago, I got an itch to make a true balearic sling. I started with hemp twine I bought.
It's a 3 strand braid, doubled split pouch and a tapered release cord (it makes a really nice crack), but I wasn't
satisfied.

On the way home from school I saw a yucca in my neighbour's garden, so I "borrowed" some. ;)
As seen in this video, leaves are simply scraped off and pure fibers are left.

Now, I don't know what Mr. Camuñas did before with the leaves, but when I try to scrape them
all that happens is that the outer layer gets scraped and the green stuff between fibers is still there.  :(
I've tried soaking the leaves for a few days and I get the same result.  :-/

Can anyone give me some advice, it would be much appreciated.  :)

Thanks.

Not sure but,traditionally hemp fiber was produces by first rotting,leaving the stalkes in small lakes for a long time.
Maybe you need to soak it more..or try beating,pounding the yucca,then scraping..

jlasud wrote on Nov 2^nd, 2012 at 1:23pm:

Not sure but,traditionally hemp fiber was produces by first rotting,leaving the stalkes in small lakes for a long time. Maybe you need to soak it more..or try beating,pounding the yucca,then scraping..

Thanks, I guess I just need to be patient. It's just one of the virtues slinging is teaching me.  :)
Also, to confirm your theory, I took out a leaf from the second batch (soaked for 2 days longer) and it's much easier to scrape!
I'll wait a week and report the results.
One thing I noticed from rotting is that it has an incredibly awful smell! It smells worse than a two week old rotten raw fish. I never knew plants could smell that bad.

Thanks for the help!

I need an explanation of the following term: A rope/cord blends well / not well when braided.

So far I read it once or twice from Pikaru:

Quote: I was very unsatisfied with the cord because it was so stiff and didn't blend well when braided.
in: http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1335980338/60

So far I figured out that it is not related to a blended rope (means e.g. a mixture of two different materials twisted together into a rope).

Two photos of a well blended cord in a braid and a badly blended cord in braid would be helpful.

These are all braids with cords of about the same diameter.

The top is hemp. It is the good hemp I referenced in an earlier post. I took a four strand round braid, added one more cord to make a five strand flat braid then removed a cord to go back to a four strand round braid. The ends of the cord feather well and are easily blended back into the braid for a smooth transition.

The second braid, the one in the middle is hemp cord. This is the stiff hard cord I got that does not braid smoothly and the individual strands do not feather well to blend back into the braid. The transitions from four to five strand braids are not smooth. This is usually where whipping can and many times is used. I like to avoid whipping as much as I can.

The bottom braid is jute in a seven strand flat braid. You would not have a smooth braid like this if you used a stiff cord, like the one pictured in the middle.

Teg, I hope this helps.

---

Thank you very much for this neat example pieces! That's perfect! Now I fully understand what you mean. With blending you mean how good the individual fibers of the different cords "mix" with the fibers from the other cords to form a "single" smooth piece of braid.

Yes. I like the felting qualities of this new hemp that I found. Once the cord is braided or twisted (plaited) I rub it with a cloth, the fibers bind with eachother and make a tight, smooth braid or plait (twist). I am still not in favor of plaited cord for the finger and release strings of a sling, it's faster to plait your material than it is to braid but with braiding I don't have to deal with wierd twists or tangles. Glad that helped.

---

PIK! That 7 strand braid is sweet, where did you learn how to do it? Any tutorials?

There are probably some out there in cyberland but I figured out how to do it mostly by accident. For all I know I'm doing it wrong.

I can draw up an illustration if you would like but in reality it's just like a five strand braid but with two more cords. You can do the same with nine, eleven, thirteen or even fifteen. I have found it works better with an odd number of strands. With an even number of strands the braid has a tendancy to slowly twist.

Pikåru wrote on Nov 12^th, 2012 at 11:28am:

There are probably some out there in cyberland but I figured out how to do it mostly by accident. For all I know I'm doing it wrong. I can draw up an illustration if you would like but in reality it's just like a five strand braid but with two more cords. You can do the same with nine, eleven, thirteen or even fifteen. I have found it works better with an odd number of strands. With an even number of strands the braid has a tendancy to slowly twist.

Oh, cool. I guess there are more braids per inch than a normal five strand braid. I understand what you're saying. I can do Five strand allright, I like the idea of using that basic method of braid but with more strands. Thanks.  :)

Hello again,
  I keep hearing about these in passing references, but I've nothing to tell me what it is. So, What is a "War Sling"?  Is it a Trebuchet? A Fistuballus?  Eh?
  I would imagine they are simply really beefy slings for really beefy rocks, but if someone would be so kind as to shed some light on the topic I'd be greatfull. Basic Parameters for Qualification as such would be nice too.

The big beefy brutes are what I consider to be war slings.

Supposedly they're extra long and beefy slings.

IMO they're really for kicks and not much more. I would much rather trust my life with the sling I train with every day (well for me that would be more along the lines of months  :-X) than with an extra cumbersome sling that will release a half second later than what I'm used.

They are thicker slings designed for larger ammo. It's not like one inch manilla rope but just heavier slings like a thicker baleric style sling is the most common style.

They tend to last a lot longer, and I am noticiably more accurate with them. They 'feel' better and can throw a wider variety of ammunition.

I'm a fan. I wouldn't consider them brutes or cumbersome, just heavier and a bit thicker.

A normal sling might have a 3-6 strand braid down the length of the cords, a war sling will have 10 strands. That's about the average difference. Every slinger I've sent even some of my lighter war slings too likes the heavy feel and notices a postive difference whern they try them.

The only dissadvantage is they take a lot more cord.

They're long, stiff slings usually with thicker cords. Easy to learn on and adapt to and good at sending biconical lead ammo into a mass of enemy soldiers. As opposed to hunting slings which are shorter and designed to not get tangled in tall grass of low hanging tree limbs. Both are modern designations for these kinds of slings and not an indication of historical use.

Hey people new question for y'all. I have a sling made out of wool and it's too stretchy for my liking. Is there any way to deal with this? Maybe a line of handstitching going down the cords? Maybe wax? Or something different...

A running rope stitch will help. Wax will not.

You could try to felt it. But I have absolutely no experience with felting wool, so try it at your own risk ;). Keep in mind that felting usually shrinks the material considerably...

Teg wrote on Nov 21^st, 2012 at 2:24pm:

You could try to felt it. But I have absolutely no experience with felting wool, so try it at your own risk ;). Keep in mind that felting usually shrinks the material considerably...

Yes, it would shrink a lot.

but I think someone did this before, just toss it into the washer with the water set to the highest setting or around 100F.

Pikåru wrote on Nov 21^st, 2012 at 2:21pm:

A running rope stitch will help. Wax will not.

What kind of stitch is that?

A hand stitch would probably work or you can run a few lines on a sewing machine. The weave of your cords is not going to be too tight to run it through a sewing machine.

I like the idea of felting. It's on my list of future projects. There's a weaving store nearby with a number of felted projects on display. I will get pointers from them before I start.

Thanks you always give good advice! I might try felting for a woven pouch...

xxkid123 wrote on Nov 21^st, 2012 at 12:16am:

Supposedly they're extra long and beefy slings. IMO they're really for kicks and not much more. I would much rather trust my life with the sling I train with every day (well for me that would be more along the lines of months  :-X) than with an extra cumbersome sling that will release a half second later than what I'm used.

Like Dan, I'm a fan of War Slings.  I use them all of the time and have no problems whatsoever with them.  Some of my favorite slings are War Slings.  They are not extra cumbersome. Not at all.
  Below are some War Slings that went camping with me last spring.  Only the top one was cumbersome,  because I made the cords too thick.  The others worked and still work fine.

---

I have a couple of difference concepts working here with a heavy sling. I wanted an overlapping split pouch like with the Rockman but no whipping and to continue the weave on the pouch past the point where the straps cross over each other.

Eight heavy jute cords woven together with hemp. Beginning at the pouch with a fifteen strand braid which will taper down to the ends.

This sling is actually heavier than I envisioned but I'm too far into it to just toss it onto the scrap pile.

---

That looks good

Pik, I'm really looking forward to seeing how that sling turns out.

I have some jute slings that thick and they work fine, just make sure you taper the release cord sufficiently and you should be fine.

I always do Daniel-San. One cord is completed and it's very fluid. The pouch however is stiff. I wove it tight hoping it will work itself out.

Thanks guys. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

I only joined yesterday, but heard about SITH as a guest.  How does it work, and when is the next one??

Can't be too soon for me.  

It works sort of like "secret Santa" except after the drawing, everyone knows who their sender and who their recipient is. It's a random sling swap where everyone that participates makes a sling and sends it out to someone. If all works well, and the shuffle is a good one no two people switch with eachother. This happened once naturally in the last sith and once because we had a late addi!tion.

Lets do it!  I missed out on the last one...

SITH is an acronym for "Sling In The Hat," which is a semiannual, organize sling swap.
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1300866147

Imagine standing in a circle and passing a sling to the person on your right. You get a sling from the person to your left. It's not a one on one swap, but everyone gets something new.

Cool!

Hey anybody here use an iPhone to post pictures? I have an iPhone 4 can't seem to figure it out.

I have. Under the text box that you type in there is a button that says "Choose File." You'll be prompted to take a photo or choose an existing photo from your camera app.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Nov 30^th, 2012 at 2:56pm:

I have. Under the text box that you type in there is a button that says "Choose File." You'll be prompted to take a photo or choose an existing photo from your camera app.

Any Idea how to get the iphone to not take such big pics?  I successfully posted one from my phone, but it's quite large.  

Choose file won't click. I guess you're all just missing out on seeing my slings!

Download the free photobucket app. It'll let you post photos within the text, and you can resize the photos on your iPhone.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Dec 1^st, 2012 at 5:41pm:

Download the free photobucket app. It'll let you post photos within the text, and you can resize the photos on your iPhone.

:o  you're awesome..  Thanks!

;D Nope, just practiced. I don't have tv or Internet so the only way I can access the forum is on my iPhone. In fact, that's why I got an iPhone.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Dec 2^nd, 2012 at 1:32pm:

;D Nope, just practiced. I don't have tv or Internet so the only way I can access the forum is on my iPhone. In fact, that's why I got an iPhone.

And you don't think that moderating exclusively from your iPhone is awesome?!  Man, you're hard to impress!!  Lololol.

Now that is dedication!! I'm still working on the phitobucket....

Thanks Masi! Technology defeats me every time!

Aww, they "decluttered" the app and made it less useful. You can still post, though. Can you get your photos to photobucket? Go to your album and tap the photo you want to post. There's an arrow in the lower left corner, tap that. Select share by email, highlight and copy the URL, and then press cancel in the upper left. Delete the draft. Then come to the forum and start a post where you want the photo. Tap and hold in the text box until the magnifying glass shows up. Choose paste.
And...
http://s1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/masiaka/?action=view¤t=rotate0214121724.jpg&evt=user_media_share
Voila! Cowboy Masi getting off work.

I'm diggin the felt cowboy hat! And if course no better feeling than getting off work on a Friday!

I'm looking forward to it. Sadly, that is not a current pic and I am not off the hook yet.

Alright guys yet another question: how do I keep a four strand based braid from twisting? Three strand braids I have no issue with but I figure I might as well ask!

Tomas wrote on Dec 7^th, 2012 at 8:47pm:

Alright guys yet another question: how do I keep a four strand based braid from twisting? Three strand braids I have no issue with but I figure I might as well ask!

Keep even tension, and don't pull too tight. I recommend hooking/securing one end down on something. Since I use finger loops on my slings, I'll just put the finger loops around a hook or door handle and braid away. With the three strand braid it wasn't as important to keep one end pinned down, as you only needed pressure on the three strands to braid neatly. With the four strand braid, you get a lot more neatness when you have a fifth bit of pressure tugging on the non working end.

Here's a question of mine: how do you make a sling crack? I read that if you make the end of the release cord all fuzzy it makes a loud crack when you use it. I can't get mine to do that.

It's like a whip. If the sling is long enough, tapers enough, and the end is shaped right, and you snap the sling forward and back like a whip, then your sling will crack. You have to get the very tip of the sling to move really fast, fast enough that it leaves a pocket of vacuum where it used to be because the sound of the air rushing to fill that space is what makes the sound.

Just wonderin, is tapering a 12 strand release cord down to 3 too much? Probably so, but live in learn I guess.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Dec 8^th, 2012 at 1:15am:

It's like a whip. If the sling is long enough, tapers enough, and the end is shaped right, and you snap the sling forward and back like a whip, then your sling will crack. You have to get the very tip of the sling to move really fast, fast enough that it leaves a pocket of vacuum where it used to be because the sound of the air rushing to fill that space is what makes the sound.

Also, there is something to be said for practice.  When I first started slinging I had a heck of a time getting the crack too.  Now when I show people how to sling they say, "Woah.  That sounded like a whip!"  I've also found that follow through helps a bit with the crack as well..

Rofriedrich wrote on Dec 8^th, 2012 at 1:25am:

Just wonderin, is tapering a 12 strand release cord down to 3 too much? Probably so, but live in learn I guess.

Ask yourself a question:  Does it work?  

If the answer to this is "Yes" then there's no problem.  The only thing I would worry about at that point is how it looks.  Not all slingers will care much about aesthetics but I kinda do so if a sling looks ugly to me I probably wont use it much.  In point of fact I have one that I made from Jute a while back that works beautifully and is possibly the best braided sling I own, but I don't use it much because it's ugly.  I guess its like a sports car.  They should work (get you from point A to Point B) AND look slick..

Rofriedrich wrote on Dec 8^th, 2012 at 1:25am:

Just wonderin, is tapering a 12 strand release cord down to 3 too much? Probably so, but live in learn I guess.

I'd say it should be fine but maybe take it down to 4 strands instead. But, it realy depends on what material you are using.

As long as you taper evenly, it should look great and snap like a .22

xxkid123 wrote on Dec 7^th, 2012 at 9:19pm:

Tomas wrote on Dec 7th, 2012 at 8:47pm: Alright guys yet another question: how do I keep a four strand based braid from twisting? Three strand braids I have no issue with but I figure I might as well ask! Keep even tension, and don't pull too tight. I recommend hooking/securing one end down on something. Since I use finger loops on my slings, I'll just put the finger loops around a hook or door handle and braid away. With the three strand braid it wasn't as important to keep one end pinned down, as you only needed pressure on the three strands to braid neatly. With the four strand braid, you get a lot more neatness when you have a fifth bit of pressure tugging on the non working end.

Thanks I was pulling it way too tight. Immediate improvement and much easier and faster :)

HunterGatherer wrote on Dec 7^th, 2012 at 10:06pm:

Here's a question of mine: how do you make a sling crack? I read that if you make the end of the release cord all fuzzy it makes a loud crack when you use it. I can't get mine to do that.

Try using a 'cracker'. I don't mean lashing someone from the deep south to your sling. It doesn't work because by the time you get the last knot done, he runs away with your sling.   ::)

Use a small strip of soft leather. No need to buy anything if you have an old pair of leather gloves, edge of a leather garment, edge of a leather apolstered piece of furniture...

Attach a small strip to the end of your release cord. It'll eventually wear out and you just attach another one. When I have it, I find natural sinew or very thin worked rawhide works best. Sinew or rawhide has to be moistened before you use your sling but it cracks really loud with little effort. I sometimes like to use it as an indicator of a good throw.

---

I just made some slings with artificial sinew spliced in at the ends of the release cords (9 strand braid looks beast with Artificial sinew) and they snap pretty well and are- AFAIK- durable as well. I'll put pics up soon

Normally, a nice tapered sling and a hard throw with medium weight ammo and you can get some pretty loud cracks.

Here's another one: how do you de-fuzz a jute sling? I don't mind the fuzz, but I'd like to make a non-fuzzy one.

Run a lighter over it, they'll burn right off.

Hey, does anyone have a good cestrosphendone tutorial?  I've been wanting to make one for a while now, and I finally have some free time...

http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1340710131

Ah... thank you.  That is actually the exact tutorial I was thinking of and hoping to find.  I appreciate it.   :)

How do you make a tutorial?

ninja-slinger wrote on Dec 24^th, 2012 at 9:36am:

How do you make a tutorial?

Come up with a novel idea, explain it on the forum, and get Chris to put it on the home page. That last part has gotten a little harder to do over the years. I think C_A's working on doing it himself, though.

What kind of leather do y'all use if you make a solid pouch? I use some that's fairly thin and stiff, but throws very well. Arcane sent me one with a soft thick pouch and i very much like it. Problem is, I don't know what this is or where to get it. What's yalls ideas on this?

I buy bags of scrap leather from craft stores. You get a little bit of all kinds of leather.

Good idea.

I bought an entire half hide.  ;D
$58 shipped.

Made two quivers and I still have more leather than I'll ever need.  :)

From the slings I've recived in various SITHs, its quite apparant that I use much thicker and heavier slings than most. Cords and leather wise.

Hey any tips on getting more distance?

Tomas wrote on Dec 26^th, 2012 at 9:30am:

Hey any tips on getting more distance?

Use lead.  ;D
That'll give you at least 50% improvments instantly.  :)


For actual improvement of distance throwing, refine your form and master slinging at about a 45 degree angle.

Put all of your body weight into the throw while still keeping it 'clean'. Make sure your palm is facing towards the target so you get a good spiral.

And practice, a lot.

Alright what's an average distance for a "yearling"?

Tomas wrote on Dec 26^th, 2012 at 10:20am:

Alright what's an average distance for a "yearling"?

No idea. A lot of us didn't actually measure our distances when starting out and a lot of use didn't try for distance at all. Plus, the huge variation in ammo used gives a huge range of... ranges.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Dec 24^th, 2012 at 2:56pm:

ninja-slinger wrote on Dec 24th, 2012 at 9:36am: How do you make a tutorial? Come up with a novel idea, explain it on the forum, and get Chris to put it on the home page. That last part has gotten a little harder to do over the years. I think C_A's working on doing it himself, though.

Ah

Regarding sources of leather, Tandy Leather is a national chain which has remnants piles which are very cheap.  The one near me has mostly heavy leather remnants, but there are some lighter weight bits available.  They also have nice selections of leatherworking tools and supplies, like eyelets and rivets.

I bought a bundle of heavy leather weighing about pounds from a vendor at a historical recreationist meeting (settlers from the 17th century, mostly) for $35, I figure I could make about 300ish split pouch slings from that, maybe more.

that's "about 25 pounds"....

Hey guys I while back I found this pic and was wondering who created it? Is it still available?

---

This is a "Captain Paul" sling.

He sent several around some time ago. I fear that he is no longer active as the last login was on Nov 11th, 2011 (go to members, sort by name and look for captain paul). But you can try and send him a message  ;).

Looks pretty easy to make even if you don't have rivets

I've never had a Captain Paul but those who have swear by them.  It looks like a pretty good sling.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Dec 24^th, 2012 at 2:56pm:

ninja-slinger wrote on Dec 24th, 2012 at 9:36am: How do you make a tutorial? Come up with a novel idea, explain it on the forum, and get Chris to put it on the home page. That last part has gotten a little harder to do over the years. I think C_A's working on doing it himself, though.

Many of the tutorials made more recently didn't make it to the home page yet.  Maybe they never will.  You can find them in Aussie's FAQ section.  It might not be quite the place of honor that the home page is but at least for me it'll do.  

Apache sling:

I am making a big apache sling (heavy with thick hemp and thickish leather), with the outside of the leather patch being braided cord sewed onto one face of the leather patch.  This means the sling is not the same from both sides - one side will show just leather (and the back of the stitching) and the other will show braid sewed onto leather.

Q1:  I that the right way to make an apache sling?
Q2:  Do I put the rock in the side where the braid shows or the other side?
Q3:  Should I cut the poutch a tad overwide so that the leather naturally cups?

-Brett

Yes that is the way to make an apache sling. You'll definitely want to use the leather face to hold your rocks. They will rip your stitching way faster than you can sew it back. I do think it's a good idea to make the pouch maybe 1/4 inch bigger all around so it wraps around the outer edge of the "arms" of your pouch. That way you can keep your stitches away from those nasty rocks.And it will cup and form itself in my experience. Hope it goes well!

Hey has anybody tried weaving with a heddle?

Yes.  I was the Heddle my class.

Ha!  A joke!  

What's a Heddle?

And thanx for the apache info.

I couldn't find anywhere this has been asked or covered yet, but how does one go about finding suitable natural materials?  Once they're found, should they be dried, worked with wet, or does it depend on the material?

Thanks,
Matt

batty110 wrote on Jan 22^nd, 2013 at 8:21pm:

I couldn't find anywhere this has been asked or covered yet, but how does one go about finding suitable natural materials?  Once they're found, should they be dried, worked with wet, or does it depend on the material? Thanks, Matt

Yes, I would be interested about this, too. Especially how to get fibers from the stinging nettle, that is very common here. Can the "poison" be inactivated just by drying or do you have to boil the plants (there`s a stinging nettle tea here). Does boiling damage the fibers?

---

lakeslinger wrote on Jan 25^th, 2013 at 4:26am:

batty110 wrote on Jan 22nd, 2013 at 8:21pm: I couldn't find anywhere this has been asked or covered yet, but how does one go about finding suitable natural materials?  Once they're found, should they be dried, worked with wet, or does it depend on the material? Thanks, Matt Yes, I would be interested about this, too. Especially how to get fibers from the stinging nettle, that is very common here. Can the "poison" be inactivated just by drying or do you have to boil the plants (there`s a stinging nettle tea here). Does boiling damage the fibers?

As far as I know Timann has some experience with nettles.
Otherwise see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezM528PiSrg for a very primitive way.
I think I have heard that the traditional way to get fibers (like hemp and flax) also works for nettles: e.g. harvest, rotting, breaking, combing, spinning (see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jFn5Ml36xM). I never tried it myself but it's on my to do list ;).

I've worked with stinging nettels a few times to make cordage before. I've even done it without gloves.  :o

Before cutting the plant down I take my knife and cut off all the branches (its pretty easy so there's no need to hold the plant or anything). Then scrape your knife along all sides of the plant to get the little white hairs off, those are what sting.

Then grab an area on the plant that you are sure has no hairs and cut the stalk as low as you can. Take a closer look and get the remainder of the nedles off. Lightly pound the stalk and remove the outer fibers and you are ready to go. You'll need a lot so harvest a lot but be sure to leave some to grow next year.

If you happen to get a few stingers in your skin, rub one of the leaves on it. I'm pretty sure the chemical properties of the leave counter act the stingers.  :)

In my hands-on research I have found that depending on the region and people, natural fibers were prepped in several different ways but a common thread is soaking, scraping, drying then twisting. Sometimes fibers don't have to have fleshy parts scraped off but sometimes scraping or using a sharpened edge on the fiber will help separate the strands. For example, certain peoples in the South Pacific would soak fibers (not all kinds) in the ocean before drying, separating and twisting into cord. What I don't know is the science behind it. Is it because of the pH or the salinity of the salt water, is it an old unknown tradition where the science doesn't matter or is it something else entirely?

I would say that the best thing to do is experiement. If the fiber around your area is dried out or dead because of the winter season, try working with it that way. Pound it, soak it, soak it then pound it, twist it... whatever. You'll only learn by doing.

Heres one large bundle of wild hybiscus (Pago) bark I was able to cure and bring  back from vacation that I am going to strip and clean today to see what I can do with it. If it doesn't work I'll start on the second batch that I have prepped a different way.

Bottom line, experiement and learn by doing.

---

how often do we do SITHs here? i just noticed the Christmas one and was wondering.

We usually have them semi anually.

Roughly one big SITH a season. But there are sling give aways and small trades happening all the time.

Yep!

If you're interested, you can PM someone you want to trade with or alternatively, visit the Trading Post here...

Yeah, SITHS happens everytime someone declare them  :)
But as Dan said, we usually have one or two per year, plus other little transaction.
We're like a busy seaport  :D
Greetings,
Mauro.

Anyone can sponsor a SITH anytime they like.  There's really no rhyme or reason to it.  Usually one a season is done, but that's not a hard, fast rule.  

I was in school today and thought of weaving a pouch that was separable and then just attaching it to the split pouch. has anyone already tried this? and if so, what were the results?

Thanks in advance ;D

Like a zipper?

no, like you weave a separate pouch (probably circular) and then attaching it to your split pouch sling. ;)

Take a look at timann's post next to last page in pics of slings & slinging.  :-?

I've attached a pouch to a sling plenty of times. I usually prefer to make it permanent, but I have made a temporary solid pouch sling before. Without the added solid pouch it was still a usable split pouch sling. To tell you the truth it never felt right, which is why I tried messing with it and adding a pouch.

i was wondering how do you do whipping to attach a pouch to your sling, sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'm new to slinging and don't know

These are the two kinds of whipping you will see most used here:

http://www.animatedknots.com/commonwhipping/index.php

http://www.animatedknots.com/westcountry/index.php

You should check out the first post in this thread. Questions are the mark of a man who wishes to improve himself. Stupid is being content with not growing your knowledge. Ask away. :) ...But maybe ask your questions in the question thread. Whipping is usually done to protect the fibers of the sling from abrasion, and sometimes for looks. ;) When the whipping wears through you just whip it again, instead of having the sling cord wear through and needing to braid a whole new sling.

I use nylon cord/thread for whipping and I cheat by lightly coating the common whipping with superglue.  I've never had a fail.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Jan 31^st, 2013 at 10:33am:

Whipping is usually done to protect the fibers of the sling from abrasion, and sometimes for looks. ;) When the whipping wears through you just whip it again, instead of having the sling cord wear through and needing to braid a whole new sling.

   Though what Mas wrote is usually the case, with me the whipping is also a part of the construction of the sling and helps hold the sling together.  
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1338672380/0#0
I've also used it to whip extra strands (warp threads) onto the sides of the pouch.  I use West Country Whipping.

Alright so when I started slinging last summer I wrinkled my nose at braiding and thought it was for little girls. Oh how wrong I was! Seems strange all my friends are playing video games while I'm playing with string lol
I am curious though about new and exciting(exciting for me that is!) braids/plaits and so I'm asking you for any you might know! I guess this could turn into a good thread for beginners to learn as well. Thanks ahead of time.
- Tomas

The basics for (flats) braids is : the outer stand become the inner. Be it 3, 4 or any number of strands.

I can barely do a 4-strand... But can braid 3 strand very fast.
some intresting ones-
12 strand kernmantle braid... used to make rope sheaths...
the drummer's plait(easy)
the continous crown(medium)
the spanish (something i cannot remeber)- this one looks very cool!
there are others.....

There's a braiding resource on the home page, at least one braiding technique in Aussie's FAQ's, one of our former moderators added a braiding section to her website, our very own Timothy Potter has a section of tutorials on his website, and we have numerous threads on more complex kumihimo braiding. I can also remember a couple of threads compiling braiding techniques, but I don't have the time to do a proper search.

I've also been having some trouble braiding, but its mostly attaching the braids to the sling that I have trouble with

Wow that's enough braiding to keep me busy for a while! Apparently you can do letters. I'm gonna try that next!

prd000 wrote on Feb 1^st, 2013 at 7:35am:

I've also been having some trouble braiding, but its mostly attaching the braids to the sling that I have trouble with

Have you tried just braiding the entire sling in one piece?

Brett wrote on Jan 31^st, 2013 at 10:34am:

I use nylon cord/thread for whipping and I cheat by lightly coating the common whipping with superglue.  I've never had a fail.

I always used common whipping. Now i'm really liking bow string serving  8-)

masia, yes that was originally what i tried to do, and also how do you take multiple natural fibers such as the ones in a coconut husk and make a string long enough to braid? :-/

You start with not so long fibers and when one is almost finished, you take another and you continue braiding with both at the same time.

Or you start spinning, but I don't know if coconut husk are good spinning material

You can either initailly reverse twist the fibers and add in the new fibers as you reverse twist or, just add in the new pieces as you braid, allowing an inch or 2 of overlap.

Thanks!!!! ;D

Can anyone provide information concerning cobra or asymetrical slings? Specifically, what advantages does the unique pouch design provide, what is the optimal length and width of this type of pouch, and is this a modern design or is there historical evidence of this type of sling.   Lastly, can anyone provide a link to a picture of this type of sling in use? Thank you in advance for any assistance.

The asymmetric pouch produces more spin upon release than a smaller symmetric pouch, but suffers from less drag than a pouch with equal length... wings (? i cant think of a better term) on each side. More spin for our purposes means better spin stabilization. The projectile sits in the widest part of the pouch, the pouch tapers slowly toward the release end, and it tapers quickly toward the retention end.

Optimal depends on too many factors to peg down. Experiment until you find what works for you.

There's very little evidence for historical sling designs at all because the materials for making slings break down quickly in the archaeological record.

I also can't seem to find any images of a sling being used where you can clearly tell what the pouch shape is.

Thank you.

On a tapered release cord is it necessary to secure the dropped strand or should the braid tension prevent pull out? Thanks for responces.

Ron

I usually just cut them off. Occasionally they'll start coming out on their own if the cord material is synthetic. For a sling that I want to look nice I'll splice the end of a dropped strand into the middle of a strand that continues.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Feb 8^th, 2013 at 6:14am:

I usually just cut them off. Occasionally they'll start coming out on their own if the cord material is synthetic. For a sling that I want to look nice I'll splice the end of a dropped strand into the middle of a strand that continues.

Thats a good idea!

Usually you can just leave the extra bit of cord out and thr braid retention will hold it in. Sometimes I'll fluff up the end of the cord and twist it in so its a little more uniform.

I mainly use Jute, and i have never had a problem with a tapered cord. However, jute is rough, and holds together REALLY well.
Its also cheap. back to the question- modern, synthetic fibers often will come out, it helps if you braid it really tight. also, take a lighter and melt the end of the cord, and make it sorta weld to the rest of the braid...
-Squirrel

Also, some people I know sew the cord end to another cord, and finish the braid...
-Squirrel

;DHello everyone I wanted to make this thread because i did not see one that centralized all of the thoughts this one may end containing.

I became interested in slings when I read a few historical articals on the millitary use of the sling (many from this very site). I noticed however that I still had a few questions about this, not the tactics but of the sling, ammo, and tecnique from a modern perspective.

Can a sling be used as a front line offensive weapon? That is, with a flat, straight line trajectory.
I have read in historical articles of this being done. Specifically of a tribe in madagascar whose slings at 50 yards were as  deadly as firearms.

To achieve this a sling would have to be accurate, precise, and generate enough kinetic energy to be lethal.  SO...

A. What are some tips for acheiving a consistent throw?

B. How does one achieve accuracy and precision without sacrficing kinetic energy or vise versa?

C. What factors of a sling help or hinder the production of kinetic energy and what are the limitations? (I.E. Sling length VS RPM VS Ammo weight?

D. Is it better to keep ammo light and achieve a high velocity or to increase ammo weight? ( most far distances are obtained with 2-3oz ammo as where most war slings were said to have 8-21oz ammo)


Like I said, I am very new to the actual art of slinging and if there are any things I am overlooking or if I am simply repeating a thread let me know.    Thank you!  Can't wait to hear from you all! ROCK ON!

I only have answers for the points A and B :
Take the train a lot. :-?

Errrr, let's keep only the "Train a lot" part. Perfect consistent shot is only obtainable by repetition of perfect practice with perfectly egal ammo.
At fisrt, you will have to train without putting all your power into your throws, and you will be able to gradually increase it, getting to an optimum point where you can deliver max power on a small dot for a long time.

To be honest, to get to this point, you will not be "training". You will have to endure "Training from Hell" as an introduction course and then you may graduate ;)

For the last point, I will be extremly precise : it depends.
Mostly of you, of the sling you train with, of the ammo you train with... of your limitations and goals :)


Last note : don't expect to be as precise as modern snipers and as powerful as a rocket launcher... Madagascar's firearms in 1500 were not up to our current level ;)


Enjoy yourself and your slinging time ^^

BTW : what is RPM ? Retardateur Pour Montagnards ?

true... but i think we might be able to match a .22 for power and a .30 winmag for accuracy :D
JJ on the .300... maybe a bbgun's accuracy?
-Squirrel

Quote:

BTW : what is RPM ? Retardateur Pour Montagnards ?

I took it as revolutions per minute in regard to how quickly you're spinning the sling before the release.

I am very new to slinging as well Rock Head, so I might not be the best source,  but the slings role in the whole ordeal is relatively minute. So just as Caldou said, you need lots and lots of training, and then some. Be consistent in every aspect that is in your control, i.e. pick one technique, use the same sling, and pick a type of ammunition that you can reuse or reproduce easily that won't vary in size/shape.

This isn't specific to slinging, it's how you get better at just about anything. I can't speak to any of the sciencey stuff you asked though.

lol thanks for the advice caldou cant wait to graduate  ;)

@squirrel slinger do you really think it is only about a .22 round equvalent for power

cavemanzhi i hear you seems like i need to go buy some racket or tennis balls

It's not the RPM's of the initial rotations that count, the majority of the release velocity is developed in the final thrust phase of the throw which is always well under a single revolution. So do not try to make the initial revolutions too fast as doing so will destroy your coordination and consequently reduce your speed, not to mention reducing your accuracy. Good slinging looks effortless. Have a look at 'Mr. Jaegoor's' videos on YT.

Answers

A. Learn a good technique like Fig.8, helicopter or sidearm and practice. Video yourself as a substitute for coaching which is difficult to get.

B. As you get better your velocity will also increase. Don't worry about 'power' just concentrate on being able to hit your target. Remember a sling will never be a 30-06, but it can be deadly.

C. Don't fall for the longer is better idea. It's very easy to get a sling which is so long you won't be able to use it efficiently. It's unlikely that a sling over 30" will be good for you as a beginner. Learn your technique, experiment later.

D. Excessively light ammo won't necessarily go a lot faster and very heavy ammo will also be difficult to sling accurately. I suggest starting with ammo around 2 - 3 oz. and experiment once you've got your technique developed.

Sorry about the lack of punctuation. kinda in a hurry. lol

Sweet! good to know. thanks Assie will do

Rock Head wrote on Feb 12^th, 2013 at 3:43pm:

Sweet! good to know. thanks Assie will do

BTW That's "Aussie"   ;)

Rock Head wrote on Feb 12^th, 2013 at 3:42pm:

Sorry about the lack of punctuation. kinda in a hurry. lol

This is a forum, it won't disappear overnight ;)

So you can come back later, when you will have time to type.

Note : this is not meaning we don't want to see you around ;) Only that everyone can (and should) take his time before answering :)

Keep in mind that just because slings are capable of 300+ yards does not mean that that's where you're supposed to hit targets at. If anything, that's more of the domain of "lob rocks at a large group" mentality. ;)

Notice how most tribes focused of accuracy well within 50-75 yards. At those distances, not only does functional accuracy become much more feasible, but you can even use fist-sized stones and still hit your target reliably. Just start by focusing on both form and getting your shots to go forward. Then, focus solely on trying to hit a target at 20-30 feet or so. Then increase distance and power as you get better. ;)

Thanks guys a lot of great info here! I will stick to the general guide lines and do some experiments after I feel a little competent.  Maybe get some hard numbers on the forces we actualy deal with when slinging! This will be awesome! ROCK ON!

I've merged this into the "Now Taking Questions" thread, its purpose is to answer any (straightforward) questions about slinging that you have.

Rock Head wrote on Feb 12^th, 2013 at 3:39pm:

lol thanks for the advice caldou cant wait to graduate  ;) @squirrel slinger do you really think it is only about a .22 round equvalent for power cavemanzhi i hear you seems like i need to go buy some racket or tennis balls

I dunno, but given I seem to be the only one here that slings 16 oz ammo on a regular basis, maybe!
i see how smaller ammo is better, but i still love me 42 inch rockman with an 7 inch wide pouch. made from poly, never wears out.
dang that stuff is DURABLE!!!
-Squirrel
my stones might be higher, and not having much comparison with guns( I do not shoot :() i do not have a simple way to know.
maybe a force-meter target?
with 2-3 oz ammo, a slinger can prob hit 300 yards on a good day and good ammo, decent sling. with my 8 oz ammo i can hit 200 on a good day. with my 16 oz ammo and the rockman, i can hit 180 on a good day. if i used a 50 inch sling...
with my 6 foot staff-sling and a 6 foot sling tied to end, throwing 7-9 oz stone, i can hit 250 yards on a GREAT day.  i have done it on multiple occcassions, at a park near my house on a 1500 foot frisbee-golf hole that is literally a line-drive
used 2 oz ammo provided by my cousin.
force-area is ( in my opinion) more important than speed, and a nice poity biconical sling bullet has PLENTY. i can sestroy cinder-blocks easy.
I need to end this post b4 it becomes an autobiography! :)
Oh yea, did I mention that a long staff sling is more or less a mini-catapult?

According to Wiki, your run of the mill .22 LR has a KE of 104 ft.lb or 141 J.

Now a 100 gram (bit under 4oz) stone slung at 50 m/s (160 fps) will have a KE of 125 J ie. just a bit less than a .22 LR but not too many slingers will be able to do that.

Slinging a 16 oz or 450 gram stone means you are unlikely to achieve speeds much over 30 m/s, to give you a starting KE of just over 200J ie. your stone will crunch whatever it hits but probably flies with a fairly curved trajectory.

Bear in mind, whatever the stone sling combination, ultimately the energy comes from your arm, not the sling itself.

[/quote]
I dunno, but given I seem to be the only one here that slings 16 oz ammo on a regular basis, maybe!

...with my 16 oz ammo and the rockman, i can hit 200 on a good day. [/quote]

How are you anchoring your sling? Are you using a finger loop, toggle or wrist loop?

Squirrel,  you can sling 9 oz stones 400 yards and 1 pound stones 200?   :-?

Morphy wrote on Feb 13^th, 2013 at 10:19pm:

Squirrel,  you can sling 9 oz stones 400 yards and 1 pound stones 200?   :-?

I am also quite surprised. You might want to double check those distances, they can be easy to overestimate. It happens.  :)

It was not clear, but I think he used a staff sling for the longer distance (how much is it in meters, anyway ?)

He can sling a 255 g stone 366 m and a 454 g stone 183 m.

:o

That's quite serious feat, half a kilo for almost 200m...

Squirrel, is you are sure of the distance (and weight), please make sure you don't hurt yourself by slinging too heavy and too strong.
You are still growing up and building your body, don't ruin your future.

Now you understand the incredulity.

Anyone ever try using those tiny tennis balls (golf-ball sized) they sell at pet stores?  They seem like an ideal reusable ammunition if loaded with some weight.  The size is certainly better than a standard tennis ball.

with such a big staff-sling, i use 2 arms to swing it. it is more like a small catapult than a true sling. and yes, i am careful...
and YARDS are SHORTER than meters.... plus, at that kinda range, i am using a little wheele thingee. could be slightly inaccurate.

well, so here are the measurements folks- 58 inch sling. i will post pics. i adapted it for use as a hand-sling. i will actually be able to take a video tommorow!
staff is 75 inch long, bamboo!
total weight is about a pound or 2.
i do not use this thing often, i have to practice for weeks beforehand or i WILL hurt myself. i will do my first shot in months tommorow.

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 15^th, 2013 at 8:34pm:

plus, at that kinda range, i am using a little wheele thingee. could be slightly inaccurate.

Measured to some point of impact with the ground, or to where the stone rested? Could be that you're including the distance it bounced after landing the first time.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Feb 16^th, 2013 at 11:57am:

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 15th, 2013 at 8:34pm: plus, at that kinda range, i am using a little wheele thingee. could be slightly inaccurate. Measured to some point of impact with the ground, or to where the stone rested? Could be that you're including the distance it bounced after landing the first time.

oh I measred to where stone was... and some of the stone is Galena chunks(a very dense silvery stone, i think its some kind of metal-ore.)
so I am supposed to measure to where it hit? Gosh...
How on earth do Ifind inpact points on hard, grassy ground?

easiest way would be to coat the stone with a light coloured chalk before slinging. white or yellow should work. That way you should get a clear impact print as well as a fainter roll trail.
The french chalk that weightlifters and climbers use ought to work :thumb:  

Curious Aardvark wrote on Feb 16^th, 2013 at 2:47pm:

easiest way would be to coat the stone with a light coloured chalk before slinging. white or yellow should work. That way you should get a clear impact print as well as a fainter roll trail. The french chalk that weightlifters and climbers use ought to work :thumb:

THANKS!! So i have been measureing distances wrong for years... now those short slings do not look so good...

Hello every one! :D been slinging for a little bit and used the tips you all gave. My accuracy has gone from 0% to about 10% and my margin of error has gone down considerably ( about 1.75m in diameter from center of my target to about half a meter). I also had my first moment when "KNEW" I was going to hit.

Oh, thanks for the KE figures Aussie! And C_A thanks for the chalk tip, will use.


Have fun everyone! ROCK ON! ;)

Also try to focus with a clear mind on the target,and try to make every move with the same angle,speed.

You mention having a moment when you "knew" you were going to hit.   I've had those too.  They are remarkable and strong feelings.  One time in particular comes to mind.  I had just thrown the rock and had the "know it" feeling.  A fraction of a second later I heard an impact.  The impact was far to soon - it couldn't have been the rock hitting the distant target. Did the rock hit the ground? This created a tremendously confused feeling - what was going on?  the "know it will hit" feeling happened and it seemed like I missed.  Impossible!!!  The metaphysical fabric of the universe felt like it was tearing.

Then the rock hit the target dead center.

What had happened?  The release cord had hit a noisy branch (I was shooting helicopter style) and I had heard the knot striking the bush, which I had mistaken for the rock hitting the ground rather than the target.

As a completely unrelated point, I just fired about my 10th shot with an Atlatl.  Two of my shots would have hit a rabbit at 10 yards.  either I am experiencing beginner's luck or those things are innately accurate. It is completely, utterly, mind-numbingly depressing to consider that I am probably more accurate with the Atlatl after 3 minutes than with my sling after, oh... probably 300-500 hours of practice.  right now I'm going with the hypohtesis that I'm a gifted savant with the Atlatl rather than the (more likely) competing hypothesis that I'm a doomed, pathetic loser with the sling...

Hello everybody! Ok, so how do wrist retension cords work? That is to say how does the acctual thowing proccedure differ from say the more common finger retension cords?

You may find that it is different, but not significantly. Your anchor is your wrist, the cord still runs through the fingers of your hand from your wrist through your fingers, whichever fingers you prefer. About the only thing I don't do when I sling this way is use a release knot. I only started using release knots since coming to slinging.org a year ago. I've converted back to way I was taught and have slung for years. The wrist anchor feels strange to me because I'm not used to slinging that way but it feels good in a figure eight style.

---

;DThanks Pikaru! I was wondering about whether to use a knot. But for me that begs the question, how do you end a three strand braid without using an overhand knot?



I love your blog by the way!

Rock Head wrote on Feb 22^nd, 2013 at 3:40pm:

;DThanks Pikaru! I was wondering about whether to use a knot. But for me that begs the question, how do you end a three strand braid without using an overhand knot? I love your blog by the way!

Try any other knot- I usually use a double overhand, it makes a bigger knot than a normal.
Many people just whip(wrap with thread) the end. I have tried this, and do not like it much. with Paracord and other modern cord, just melt the end into a blob. you can attach beads and then make a "lanyard" after the bead, or just knot it afterwards. on really thick slings, you can whip another thinner piece of cord to it, or make a loop, and knot it, and put a tassle on it.
These are the ways I have tried. I am sure there are others, including the monkey-fist( a knot I have tried), and maybe someone can list them.
-Squirrel

Some people fold the end of the release cord and weave a release tab from it. Others cut a release tab from leather and tie it on.

IMHO the monkey fist knot is too bulky to be a release knot. I use a monkey fist knot as a retention knot on my slings, though.

You probably already know you can weave the ends back through the braid for a couple of inches to end your three strand braid. You can use a smaller diameter cord and whip the end but I try and avoid whipping as much as I can.

Thanks for visiting the blog. I've been both too busy and too lazy to keep up with it and that needs to change.

Pikåru wrote on Feb 22^nd, 2013 at 3:51pm:

You probably already know you can weave the ends back through the braid for a couple of inches to end your three strand braid. You can use a smaller diameter cord and whip the end but I try and avoid whipping as much as I can. Thanks for visiting the blog. I've been both too busy and too lazy to keep up with it and that needs to change.

LOL I try to get on slinging.org every day. I try to read the top 5 new posts each day in each topic, commenting on maybe 1 or 2 per topic, but it varies.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Feb 22^nd, 2013 at 3:50pm:

Some people fold the end of the release cord and weave a release tab from it. Others cut a release tab from leather and tie it on. IMHO the monkey fist knot is too bulky to be a release knot. I use a monkey fist knot as a retention knot on my slings, though.

Retention knot? never heard of that. Please explain Masika!
-Squirrel

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 22^nd, 2013 at 3:55pm:

Retention knot? never heard of that. Please explain Masika! -Squirrel

As far as I know, Im the only active forum member who prefers not making a finger loop. http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1172017416/2235

Masiakasaurus wrote on Feb 22^nd, 2013 at 4:02pm:

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 22nd, 2013 at 3:55pm: Retention knot? never heard of that. Please explain Masika! -Squirrel As far as I know, Im the only active forum member who prefers not making a finger loop. http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1172017416/2235

Probably just the only one talking about it and posting pictures. The monkeypaw is just like a toggle.

i have thought of making a retention knot instead of a loop but. Im  afraid i would just end up throwing my whole sling instead of just my release knot :-/

Hi all,

Ive recently made a fantastic new sisal fibre balearic. It threw great, and then it got wet! Unlike all my other slings that got wet it lost its shape and its rigidity to a ridiculous extent. Apart from adding leather to the pouch to stiffen it up etc. is there any thing else I can do to get that rigidity back, maybe some application or wax I can apply?

Lugh-Lamhfada wrote on Feb 23^rd, 2013 at 6:21pm:

Hi all, Ive recently made a fantastic new sisal fibre balearic. It threw great, and then it got wet! Unlike all my other slings that got wet it lost its shape and its rigidity to a ridiculous extent. Apart from adding leather to the pouch to stiffen it up etc. is there any thing else I can do to get that rigidity back, maybe some application or wax I can apply?

Honestly, I like supple slings, especially in the cords :)
However you can always use beeswax to stiffen it up a bit, as well as increase it's overall durability. (Pure beeswax is far better than paraffin wax/candle wax/ synthetic waxes in general since it's far more grippy than sticky and greasy. It costs a bit more, but it's definitely worth it.)

A solution of watered down Elmer's Wood Glue or an equivalent. Don't let your sling get wet anymore. Wax will lubricate the fibers, may stiffen up a bit but use beeswax, not parafin.

Thanks  for the suggestions guys. Il see if similar products are available here.

I usually wet most of my slings upon completion to get that looseness but with this one the rigidity made it throw beautifully and made it easy to load.

Did you wet the sisal at all? They treat sisal with a kind of glue as they spin it into cordage so that it'll keep it's shape as the glue dries. I typically braid with wet sisal and let it dry with the pouch held in a mold so that it throws better.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Feb 24^th, 2013 at 12:12pm:

Did you wet the sisal at all? They treat sisal with a kind of glue as they spin it into cordage so that it'll keep it's shape as the glue dries. I typically braid with wet sisal and let it dry with the pouch held in a mold so that it throws better.

I soaked it when I was separating the fibres to dissolve the glue and separate it and braided it dry. A mold for the pouch sounds like a good idea, too late now I suppose il just reinforce it with some leather and it should give it better shaoe and rigidity.

Intresting. I do the same with Jute, but NEVER wet sisal until the sling is finished. else, the cordage just pulls apart.
Masika, I have a question- has anyone ever made a sling out of Manila???

yup me

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 24^th, 2013 at 1:07pm:

else, the cordage just pulls apart

Yup, I was pleasantly surprised by that. :) Makes it easy to pull out any strands too short to make a smooth sisal sling and untwist the stands to make it approximate a sling made with loose fibers.

Masiakasaurus wrote on Feb 24^th, 2013 at 1:42pm:

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 24th, 2013 at 1:07pm: else, the cordage just pulls apart Yup, I was pleasantly surprised by that. :) Makes it easy to pull out any strands too short to make a smooth sisal sling and untwist the stands to make it approximate a sling made with loose fibers.

I was UNPLEASANTLY [smiley=angry.gif] surprised when the sling I was making started unweaving itself.

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 24^th, 2013 at 1:07pm:

Intresting. I do the same with Jute, but NEVER wet sisal until the sling is finished. else, the cordage just pulls apart. Masika, I have a question- has anyone ever made a sling out of Manila???

I had to soak it when it was pre manufactured twine to break it into individual fibres, but I let it dry for days before braiding the bunches of fibres.

It's not always the fiber's fault kid. Sometimes it's the weave or braid chosen. The shorter the fibers are, the tighter your weave must be. If your sling is falling apart your weave is either not tight enough or there is not enough surface area to keep your strands together, or both.

Lugh-Lamhfada wrote on Feb 24^th, 2013 at 2:20pm:

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 24th, 2013 at 1:07pm: Intresting. I do the same with Jute, but NEVER wet sisal until the sling is finished. else, the cordage just pulls apart. Masika, I have a question- has anyone ever made a sling out of Manila??? I had to soak it when it was pre manufactured twine to break it into individual fibres, but I let it dry for days before braiding the bunches of fibres.

I don't know what fiber you're using exactly, however some fibers braid tighter when they're slightly damp and not wet.  Keeping tension on the finished sling while it dries completely can help it keep its stiffness, also if you were going to use a water soluable glue to stiffen up your sling, it's best to let it cure in this fashion, under tension. If through use your sling loosens up, you can retreat or better yet, try and find a fiber that does not need treatment, only care when weaving.

Totally. Next question someone else please....

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 24^th, 2013 at 1:07pm:

Intresting. I do the same with Jute, but NEVER wet sisal until the sling is finished. else, the cordage just pulls apart. Masika, I have a question- has anyone ever made a sling out of Manila???

Me too, Made a pretty good looking Balearic sling. Lots of splicing but it works fine. The release tassle wore out very quickly so I spliced in a tapered artificial sinew release release craker (last 6" or so of the release cord) and it works fine now.

how do you make a cracker out of Art. Sinew? the stuff sticks together way too well to make a tassel.

squirrelslinger wrote on Feb 25^th, 2013 at 6:39am:

how do you make a cracker out of Art. Sinew? the stuff sticks together way too well to make a tassel.

Not if you fray it out and sling with it awhile. The Wax subsides and it works fine.

I've done a 9 strand braid but it takes forever so now I use 10 strands in a 5 strand braid and it looks pretty good. Here are a couple pics of the manila sling with the Art. sinew cracker.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc495/KenpoFighter1/SSPX0033_zpsece8e92b.jpg

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc495/KenpoFighter1/SSPX0032_zps090c3285.jpg

Rat Man, also has a sling with a AS release craker from the Christmas sith but he hasn't posted pictures yet.  :(

I tested out the two slings I made this week. Both like Malik Lunds, with duct tape added for a solid pouch. I like em, but im wondering how many layers yall have used for such pouches and how long they last for rocks, since those will be what have the most abrasion. Later I' want to try a split pouch, since I forget who's thread I read about making one, and it having a clean release (as opposed to what I think are moderatly messy rock releases) for tennis balls (ammo I could put to good use with large walls).

So, a month, two months? Couple hundred rocks, a thousand?

I do not use duckt tape pouches for the most part, I prefer leather and other more durable materials. I have tried them, and do not like how they  grip, but I do use incredibly abrasive ammo- the same stuff I used as a rasp for a while. its a foamy abrasive lava, a normal balaric without a whipwrap, which would lasts >1000 shots with normal stone, lasts about 50 or less. I have used a duct tape pouch- a layer of denim, then 2 layers of ducttape.
Its cheap and easy but not too flimsy. About the thickness of thin leather, which is my normal prefered material. If you are having durablity issues, look up the Lightslinger pouch, its rubber(tire innertube), and is very, very durable.
-Squirrel

I think it depends on how much you sling in a month and how rough your ammo is, just like with determining release cord wear.

Pfft in Canada we use hockey tape.

Tomas wrote on Mar 2^nd, 2013 at 10:26pm:

Pfft in Canada we use hockey tape.

And hockey pucks for ammo eh. ;D


Sorry don't mean to take the thread off the rails.  Actually, I've a ton of duct tape, I make my nail dart cones
out of it.  I might give a pouch a try in the future.

Tomas wrote on Mar 2^nd, 2013 at 10:26pm:

Pfft in Canada we use hockey tape.

Nice, I might try grip tape if I can get my hands on it.

Woonilsra wrote on Mar 2^nd, 2013 at 9:05pm:

I tested out the two slings I made this week. Both like Malik Lunds, with duct tape added for a solid pouch. I like em, but im wondering how many layers yall have used for such pouches and how long they last for rocks, since those will be what have the most abrasion. Later I' want to try a split pouch, since I forget who's thread I read about making one, and it having a clean release (as opposed to what I think are moderatly messy rock releases) for tennis balls (ammo I could put to good use with large walls). So, a month, two months? Couple hundred rocks, a thousand?

  I like tape pouch slings a lot.  I don't make them because I'm too cheap and lazy to make a good sling.  I actually prefer the way they shoot.  They have a great feel to them and they're very easy to use.  
   My duct tape pouch slings tend to crinkle and split up rather than wear out from use.  After a few months the duct tape begins to fall apart on its own regardless of how much you use it.  Though it makes a functional sling, I usually don't use duct tape.  You can make a MUCH  better sling from medical tape.  Make sure you use the good type of medical tape; the cloth based type as opposed to the paper type.  You want to use the same kind of medical tape you doctor uses.  If you use the paper kind your sling will fall apart quickly.  If you use the good kind of medical tape you'll have a sling that will last for years.  It will be much more water resistant than a duct tape pouch sling and won't crinkle and crack.  (also like a duct tape sling)  I have some medical tape pouch slings that are years old.  If you're making tape pouch slings I strongly recommend using medical tape instead of any other sort.  The difference is night and day.  
   To answer your question, I use many layers... more than a dozen usually.  If you like, I can send you a medical tape pouch sling.  
  The center sling in the picture below is a big old medical tape pouch sling that is still in use.  
   BTW, a tutorial on how I make tape pouch slings will be appearing in Dan's book on slinging.  

---

Hahaha you drew a rat on it!

It's not a Rat Man tape pouch sling without a rat on it!

Rat Man wrote on Mar 5^th, 2013 at 6:10am:

It's not a Rat Man tape pouch sling without a rat on it!

LOL, so if I doodle a rat on my pouches.... Why are you called Rat Man, RM?

   Two reasons actually.  First, when I was a kid I put out a hand drawn comic book... Rat Man.  He was a Bat Man (huge TV show at the time) knock off.  Rat Man was sort of a goof ball and in spite of himself he and his sidekick Snobin, the boy that makes you wonder, defeated arch criminals like The Fiddler, The Poker, Fat Woman, Mr. Sneeze, etc..  
    Much later in life I bred fancy rats as a hobby. I built three huge six story rat motels and had as many as 140 pet rats at one time.  
    Hence, Rat Man.

Rat Man wrote on Mar 5^th, 2013 at 8:03pm:

Two reasons actually.  First, when I was a kid I put out a hand drawn comic book... Rat Man.  He was a Bat Man (huge TV show at the time) knock off.  Rat Man was sort of a goof ball and in spite of himself he and his sidekick Snobin, the boy that makes you wonder, defeated arch criminals like The Fiddler, The Poker, Fat Woman, Mr. Sneeze, etc..       Much later in life I bred fancy rats as a hobby. I built three huge six story rat motels and had as many as 140 pet rats at one time.       Hence, Rat Man.

Nice.....
Coolio on the comics, you still have a copy?

squirrelslinger wrote on Mar 6^th, 2013 at 10:23am:

Rat Man wrote on Mar 5th, 2013 at 8:03pm:    Two reasons actually.  First, when I was a kid I put out a hand drawn comic book... Rat Man.  He was a Bat Man (huge TV show at the time) knock off.  Rat Man was sort of a goof ball and in spite of himself he and his sidekick Snobin, the boy that makes you wonder, defeated arch criminals like The Fiddler, The Poker, Fat Woman, Mr. Sneeze, etc..       Much later in life I bred fancy rats as a hobby. I built three huge six story rat motels and had as many as 140 pet rats at one time.       Hence, Rat Man. Nice..... Coolio on the comics, you still have a copy?

If you could find it that would be hilarious.

Packing tape sling

---

  Here's a better view.  
   Unfortunately, I don't have access to any of my old Rat Man comic books.  The only one that I know of that still exists is inside of a wall in what used to be my parents' house.  I put it there in June of 1966 when Dad was remodeling.  When Mom died the house was sold, which saddened me to no end because I thought that she was going to leave it to me.  The only way I can get hold of that comic book is to buy the house back.... maybe someday.

---

Nice, I have made slings from paper-cord I made at school(no, not slings at school, DUH).
Paper makes a nice, strong, but not too durable cordage.
-Squirrel.
RM, couldn't you go ask the owners if you could remove it? I bet they might let you, if you brought materials to repair and a few $.

I'm having trouble finding a tutorial for a triple rockman sling. I've looked through this site and did a web search, but found nothing. If anyone knows of any instructions a link would be greatly appreciated!

If no such tutorial exists then can anyone explain to me how to incorporate the third pouch? I've successfully made a regular rockman, but I have no idea how to go about that extra piece.

Any help is greatly appreciated! Mods, sorry if this is a repeat question, I really couldn't find a tutorial anywhere.

It it quite a new design to there isnt a tutorial yet.

I havent made one myself but I would start with the usual 3x2 braid. Then, a couple of inches before the pouch starts, add an extra cord to each ply so it becomes 3x3. This makes enough strands for a triple Rockman pouch.Once that is done, continue braiding 3x3 for a couple of inches before dropping the added strands to go back down to 3x2. Maybe drop again to do down to 3x1 for a lighter release cord.

 

As far as I know there isn`t a tutorial for a triple rockman, but the principle to make one is the same as for the standard rockman sling. Start braiding the retention cord. 2-3 inches before it has the desired length, you start adding more strands into the braid. Now the total number of strands should be divideable by 3 (i.e. you should have e.g. 9 or 12 strands). Divide them into 3 groups and weave the strands of each group together as shown in the rockman tutorial. The middle woven part will be pushed automatically below the outer ones. Now you have two options how to combine the three woven parts together:
1) the middle part is located below the outer parts on the release end, too. Examples for this you can see here: http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1361492875
2) the middle part overlaps the two outer parts, so that they are below the middle part on the release end.
In my opinion the second option works better, cause it gives the pouch a better shape, makes a smoother release and is more rockman-like (a rockman pouch needs an overlap). An example for this option you can see on the picture below.
After combining the strands, continue braiding for about 2 inches then start tapering, i.e. skipping one of the added strands every 2-3 braiding cycles. Then finish the release cord.
I hope this post could help you.

---

That's kind of what I figured as far as the strand count goes. I even tried to make one using 9 strands right off the bat with no taper and it was just way too much sling.

I've never added strands before, nor have I tapered a braid though I understand that process. How exactly do I go about adding strands? Also, what do I do with the excess twine from the dropped strands when tapering?

I'm going to start working on it later today probably. But for right now i'm waiting for the sun to come up. I have 75 snowballs outside that I dunked in water last night. They should be nice and solid by now  8-)

Thanks guys  :)

Adding strands to a braid is easier, when you add two instead of one by one.  It depends how you normally braid.  I´ll try to explain it with the braiding “over” method (the other would be the braiding “under” method).  Usually you take one of the outer strands , let´s say here the right one and cross it over the center strand(s) (eventually followed by another step like in the 4 strand round braid, where you first cross over 2, then turn back crossing under 1).  Then you repeat the step with the other outer strand, in this example the left one. O.k., until now, this is a normal braid.
Now you add the strands. Take a cord that is double in length like each strand you want to add. Take it at the center and bring it behind (=under) your braid, in a manner that the braid and the new cord cross rectangular.  Now you continue braiding using the method described above but together with the right outer strand you take the right part of the new cord. Do the same with the left outer cord and the left part of the added cord. Make sure that you make a tight braid, otherwise there will be a small loop at the center of the added cord. That´s all.

Tapering is also easier, when you drop two strands (on opposite sides of the braid).  Then you can fix them with a short west country whipping, i.e. tie them together with a simple knot on one side of the braid then with another knot on the opposite side.  When you want to skip only one strand you can untwist it, if possible, and then do the same as I wrote for the two strands.  

If you drop many strands on a short piece of braid, like it`s often done at the first part of the release cord, then simply cut the dropped strands so, that only a short piece remains. Then make a straight whipping over the whole tapering area.  Note, that a too thick or too long whipping can cause problems with the ammo release.  Therefore you could make also a reversed sling.  You start braiding from the end of the release cord, near the pouch you add the strands, make the pouch and then drop the strands and make the whipping. A thick whipping or a stiff part on the pouch-near retention cord doesn`t cause problems.

Good luck and have fun with experimenting  ;)

I see. That's gonna take some serious focus at first, but I'm sure once I get a handle on the process it will be easier.

I also had a question in regards to the positioning of that third pouch. In the pic you showed it seems like the pouch is more rigid and could therefore limit the projectiles that can be accommodated. I would assume that having the middle piece underneath would make for a more versatile pouch capable of holding projectiles of different shapes and sizes. Maybe that's just me though. Any insight on that?

NorthwoodsSlinger wrote on Mar 26^th, 2013 at 10:19am:

I see. That's gonna take some serious focus at first, but I'm sure once I get a handle on the process it will be easier. I also had a question in regards to the positioning of that third pouch. In the pic you showed it seems like the pouch is more rigid and could therefore limit the projectiles that can be accommodated. I would assume that having the middle piece underneath would make for a more versatile pouch capable of holding projectiles of different shapes and sizes. Maybe that's just me though. Any insight on that?

This kind of pouch I found very "universal" for different ammo. Maybe the picture doesn`t show it well. The pouch is very flexible and follows the shape of various projectiles quite well. No slipping out of stones, cause this pouch design is kind of self centering. In fact it performs better than the other variant with the middle piece underneath. I tested this, too. Here`s a picture of the non overlapping triple rockman:

---

Right on. I guess i'll just have to make all of the variations and see which one best suits my needs. It's not like jute is gonna break the bank.

Speaking of jute twine, how is it for making the triple rockman? It's all I've used besides 550 cord and mason line. I hear good things about sisal. How does it compare to jute in general? If it's worth getting then I intend to pick some up next time I'm in town. I already have some hemp twine being shipped [hopefully] in the next few days. Which of the three do you recommend for the rockman?

Here is an example of my triple rockman. It's essentially the same as a normal rockman with just more strings. I cut 5 lengths of 17 foot cord. After the finger loop I cut one of the strings off, leaving me with 9 strings to weave. When I get to the pouch I do it exactly the same as the double pouch, except there is one extra set of three strings, from which I make the third pouch.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/Bokmal711/image_zpse89b2273.jpg

I will do a tutorial tonight if you want me to.
I have the jute cordage and the time.

squirrelslinger wrote on Mar 26^th, 2013 at 8:21pm:

I will do a tutorial tonight if you want me to. I have the jute cordage and the time.

That would seriously be huge man! Can you do pictures? I'm such a visual learner. To me, textual instructions devoid of illustrations make about as much sense as any other real language I can't understand. Tell you what, if you can go all out on it I'd be glad to trade you... something. We can figure it out.

NorthwoodsSlinger wrote on Mar 26^th, 2013 at 10:07pm:

squirrelslinger wrote on Mar 26th, 2013 at 8:21pm: I will do a tutorial tonight if you want me to. I have the jute cordage and the time. That would seriously be huge man! Can you do pictures? I'm such a visual learner. To me, textual instructions devoid of illustrations make about as much sense as any other real language I can't understand. Tell you what, if you can go all out on it I'd be glad to trade you... something. We can figure it out.

All pics, I am currently typing it on Notepad and will post it tonight:)

All pics, I am currently typing it on Notepad and will post it tonight:)
[/quote]

You're my hero!

I couldn't find anything using the search. Probably not using the right magic words though. Be my fault I'd say. I want to have a go at making a THH solid pouch sling, but couldn't find a tutorial. I'm sure I could figure it out, but I feel lazy right now, so thought I would ask. Anyone know where to locate a tutorial? Also, what size ammo can you use a THH for? Or is it a case of how big do ya wanna make it?! I want to be able to use various sized ammo up to tennis ball. Will a THH handle that or will it still be a case of multiple slings for various ammo sizes?
Thanks for any help,


Mick

Uh...  At the risk of sounding dumb...  

What's a THH Sling?  

Do you mean a TSS Sling (Triple SheepShank)?

I also think you may mean TSS Sling or TS3.

Oops! Sorry about that. TSS is indeed what I meant. THH is a motorcycle helmet brand...And since I'm a Biker, I think I can be forgiven :).

Triple Sheepshank huh?! So it can be more than that then, for a wider pouch, yes? Does the pouch need to be wider? Or is it wide enough to accommodate the maximum size of a tennis ball as per original post? How long does it need to be? I guess I'm still on the hunt for 'the' perfect sling for me...Yeah I know the creature probably doesn't exist, but one does have to search first, to discover these things for ourselves.


Mick

An appu sling is a sheep shank sling with no weaving. A TS3 or TSS Sling is an appu-sling with a woven pouch. A PJ sling or Peacefuljeffrey sling is a woven 5 strand sheep shank sling. Dimensions are based on personal preference and slinging style. I make PJ slings that wrap around 1/3 the circumference of a tennis ball.

http://slinging.org/index.php?page=5-strand-woven-paracord-sling-tutorial---jeffrey

Ok, so not all Brown snakes are Brown snakes then! The same sling with a slight variation may take a new name. Thanks for the help and the links LS and MS. I can be a bit slow on the uptake sometimes, but I've finally (I think) got my head wrapped around this sling style. I will be attempting to make one in the near very future.


Mick

Where can I get paracord and nylon cord and all that?

Hardware stores. Camping outfitters. Army surplus stores. Internet.

These are the places in the states where I go for paracord, although your results may vary in your part of the world.

You don't really need para cord, any strong string will work.  And if you braid, some string that you initially didn't consider will work.  Check out some of the various 6-12 strand round braids and some of the tutorials on flat braiding in the stickys up top.

Go to the nearest walgreens. They have cheapo nylon/cotton/jute/etc utility cord. My jute is from such a store.
-Squirrel
Paracod- hobby stores, internet.

Mick wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2013 at 9:12am:

Oops! Sorry about that. TSS is indeed what I meant. THH is a motorcycle helmet brand...And since I'm a Biker, I think I can be forgiven :). Triple Sheepshank huh?! So it can be more than that then, for a wider pouch, yes? Does the pouch need to be wider? Or is it wide enough to accommodate the maximum size of a tennis ball as per original post? How long does it need to be? I guess I'm still on the hunt for 'the' perfect sling for me...Yeah I know the creature probably doesn't exist, but one does have to search first, to discover these things for ourselves. Mick

   For a tennis ball I'd use a TS7 (seven strand Sheep Shank Sling).   I've made them as wide as nine strands.  You can make them even wider if you wish but it gets ridiculous after a while.  Hopefully this will help to answer your questions:
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1338672380/0#0
   Don't be surprised if there is a perfect sling for you.
 

Thanks RM I saw that tutorial just yesterday and was thinking that might be just the way to go. Would it work using 'hootchi' cord do you think? Other than that I would have to plait up some sisal garden twine to get a similar thickness to what is shown in the photographs. Or is thickness of the cordage a non issue?.


Mick

Mick wrote on Apr 10^th, 2013 at 6:15pm:

Thanks RM I saw that tutorial just yesterday and was thinking that might be just the way to go. Would it work using 'hootchi' cord do you think? Other than that I would have to plait up some sisal garden twine to get a similar thickness to what is shown in the photographs. Or is thickness of the cordage a non issue?. Mick

Eehhh... I have used jute garden twine(very thin, like 1mm) and also 1/2 inch rope

The garden twine I have is thicker, about 3mm and is Sisal. I have Jute twine as well that's about 1mm. I was planning on using hootchi cord, like 550 paracord but not as thick, about 2mm. Something that thin might require a 9 strand pouch to be wide enough for a tennis ball size, but I'm not sure. Not having made a sling in this method before. If my hootchi cord tri-band rockman style sling is anything to go by, I would say 9 is a minimum for the width of the pouch What I want is a single cord for the retention and release. I have enough braided cord slings for now and I want to try a single cord.


Mick

I find I can get away with a pretty narrow pouch using a tennis ball. A little but if cupping goes a long way:) and that way I don't feel like my sling is limited to large ammo.  That's just my two cents!

Thanks for the advice Timu, I guess, being limited in my skilll at the moment, I am unsure as too, if a tennis ball would stay in for my current fig.8 technique (or any other style really) in a narrow pouch. I have these images in my head of being surrounded by my comatose family, shattered windows and the dog, having been knocked sensless by errant tennis balls... :).


Mick

Mick wrote on Apr 11^th, 2013 at 6:35pm:

Thanks for the advice Timu, I guess, being limited in my skilll at the moment, I am unsure as too, if a tennis ball would stay in for my current fig.8 technique (or any other style really) in a narrow pouch. I have these images in my head of being surrounded by my comatose family, shattered windows and the dog, having been knocked sensless by errant tennis balls... :). Mick

LOL man! Tennis balls don't hurt THAT much.
But one of my neighbors will yell at me if they get in his yard.

Depends how long it takes before you get hit I reckon. Early in the piece when the slinger is still fresh, or later on when the slinger is starting to wear out a bit and getting frustrated from missing you all the time... ;D


Mick

I'm curious, a rock is slung and it shatters against a hard surface. How hard are we throwing to make that happen?

Tomas wrote on Apr 12^th, 2013 at 7:37am:

I'm curious, a rock is slung and it shatters against a hard surface. How hard are we throwing to make that happen?

It depends on the rock ;). Some like bad crystalized quartz shatter into many small parts really easily. It does not take much force to make that happen. Other stones will bounce back like a rubber ball.

Ya you're right Teg. I think I will pick a bunch of average river rocks from the same source and clock how fast they have to go to bust. That's good enough for me:)

I want to know anything and everything slings can be made of, and how you make them. Its a ig task, but I wanna know so I can make a sling wherever, whenever.

Also post what projeciles can be.

Ex Post:
You can make slings out of x.

You make them out of x like this:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3

etc.

My favorite (theoretical) projectile:
[edit]We do not allow posts with directions for explosives. Masi[/edit]

hassan wrote on Apr 11^th, 2013 at 12:24pm:

I want to know anything and everything slings can be made of, and how you make them. Its a ig task, but I wanna know so I can make a sling wherever, whenever. Also post what projeciles can be. Ex Post: You can make slings out of x. You make them out of x like this: Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 etc. My favorite (theoretical) projectile: [edit]We do not allow posts with directions for explosives. Masi[/edit]

Well....
Just look here-
SLING MAKING TUTORIALS

(Note: these links direct you to entries in the Guides and Articles Section or to active threads where you may post replies.)

Aussie: Seatbelt Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1243340828/0


Rockman Sling tutorial.
http://slinging.org/index.php?page=how-to-make-a-rockman-sling---bruno-tosso


David Morningstar: Shaped Pouch
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1235334392  


Matthias: Looped Warp Pouch
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1168848146  


Zorro: Medical Tape Sling  
http://www.slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?board=1;action=display;num=1140522990;star t=0


Zorro: Sierra Nevada Sling
http://slinging.org/index.php?page=sierra-nevada-sling---zorro


Rat Man: Cobra Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1257543044



Rat Man: Three Strand Sheepshank Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1251648259


Rat Man:  Alternate Method for All Sheep Shank Knot Based Slings:
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1338672380/0#0

Paleoarts: Elk Hide Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1246904983


Peaceful Jeffrey: PJ (Paracord) Sling  
http://slinging.org/index.php?page=5-strand-woven-paracord-sling-tutorial---jeff rey


Yurek: Easy Medical Tape Pouch
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1231030050


Malik Lund: Simple String Sling
http://slinging.org/index.php?page=making-a-simple-string-sling-an-illustrated-g uide---malik-lund


Matthias: Knit sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1089409452/0#0


Cliff: Woven Paracord Sling
Guides and Articles entry with text and photos
http://slinging.org/index.php?page=woven-pouch-sling---colin-philips
Original thread.
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1196026630


JustKnot: Knotty Sling Tutorial
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1170457410


Asemery: Woven Single Cord Sling
Simple attracive sling, (Video clip on YouTube)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APExNLO1oHY

adsi: Basic Netted Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1244047803/0  


Jaegoor: "Honda Popular"
This is a particularly pretty sling from one of our German members. Requires good hand-skills to make.
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1278497976


Donnerschlag: Shepherd's sling
This isn't a sling-making tutorial located on Slinging.org, but it was too good not to mention.
http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-make-a-shepherds-sling


Alpine:  Lacrosse Mesh Sling Pocket Material:  
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1298522212/0


The Warrior Yeti: Short Splicing Tutorial
Whilst not a tutorial on making a complete sling this information is helpful, especially when making braided slings.
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1248744802

 
Sons of benjamin
How to tie the fisherman's bend:  
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1298579543


Lampi100: Braiding a Sling
This inclusion was suggested by David Morningstar. (Not sure if Lampi100 is a member himself; great slinger either way.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFxoCrO2CwY

Sons of benjamin:  Latvian Braid:
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1300655156/0


Lightslinger: Lightslinger Pouch
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1353231480/0#0

                                         
David Morningstar: Beginner's Tennis Ball Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1305569221/0#0

David Morningstar:  Mexican Woven Pouch Sling (paracord)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1340105523

canteskuyaOMD: Reconstruction of Mesoamerican "Tematlatl"
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1339632628/0

David Morningstar: Cestrosphendone Dart Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1340710131

Braided "Survival Sling" (similar to Rockman's sling)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfxvrKUG0zA&feature=feedu
Teg: Knotted Pouch Sling
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1357568101/0

OK, enough tutorials.
You can make a sling from steel wire-
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/8008/1013960.jpg
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1360520506/0#0

Cord Materials-

Jute cord(1-2mm)- can make a rockman, rocklaric, or balaric. You simply braid and weave.

Nylon cord(1-2mm)- Same as for jute, but better if you just braid, weaving is diffucult and it does not like to work well.

Sisal twine(about 4mm)- use like paracord. It is about the same thickness. It makes good woven slings.

Sisal garden twine(1-3mm)- use like jute, its slightly more durable, also easier to make a woven, cause its stiffer.

poly-cord(about 2-3mm)- rockmans are good, balarics tend to be a bit too stiff. It is slippery.

Hemp- makes a beautiful balaric/braided sling. Not great for weaving.

Linen- Never tried it, but as I have seen quite a few balarics and 0 rockmans, I assume it is better for braiding than weaving.

Paracord- Good for sling lines, makes a nice TS3, also makes a good woven, but it is not as abrasion resistant as sisal or jute.

Sport cord-(1-2mm)- sort of a thinner paracord. Very strong, durable, best woven or braided. It is thin enough to make a good woven pouch. Cups well. Run over it with a lighter and wax for best performance.

Paper- Waxed paper cord makes good cord material, it just is not super durable.

POUCH MATERIALS-
This is a list of the pouch materials I have tried or seen.

Leather- the #1 pouch material for a simple sling, very strong, durable, medium easy to find. Thicker leather makes a good aussie or cupped style pouch, the thinner stuff can just be cut into a diamond shape and it will cup to the projectile.

Wovens- the #2. Depends on fiber type, see above.

Denim (old jeans)- Medium durable, slings good with tennis balls, makes a good aussie-style. Best when coated with 1 layer of d-tape, with reinforced holes, or use like innertube rubber. It tends to pull of of holes(like most fabrics do) and fray at the ends.

Fabrics- not very durable, but massively varies per fabric. Felt makes a good, durable sling, but it can and does pull out of shape, best in an Lightslinger pouch style. Some are better than others.

Seatbelt material- Makes a good cupped pouch. I suggest you gently run over it with a lighter, it melts the surface fiber and makes it more durable. Cutting it with the cutting tip on a soldering gun prevents fraying, or just cut with scissors and melt with lighter.

Used Australian mail conveyor room belting- Well, the classic aussie pouch:)

Innertube rubber- Style varies. the Lightslinger pouch sometimes loses ammo, and is less durable than other styles. The one I use most you fold the ends into a M shape, then knot the cord, then wrap tightly with electrical tape. There is a tutorial listed above.

Tie-down strap- Best as an Aussie pouch for the thinner stuff(about an inch wide) or as a seatbelt sling. It is more flexible and thinner, and is sometimes more abrasion resistant because it is designed to resist abrasion, but that is rare.

Paper- thick paper, layered, or thin strong cardboard can make a decent sling, provided you put a layer of duct-tape over it and reinforce the holes.

PROJECTILE MATERIALS-

Lead- Undoubtably the best bang for your buck material for distance and hitting power. It is dense, and heavy, and not too hard, melts easy. Easy to cast and mold. Very popular in ancient times for war in well-developed societies.  It is also toxic and some what $$$. it can be found at tire shops- old wheel weights- and as fishing sinkers, which are pre-shaped for slinging. at $3 for 2 4 oz sinkers, it is not too $$$, but $1.50 is not super cheap.

Bronze- also easy to cast, but much harder, stronger, and it melts at a higher temp. It is also somewhat corrosion resistant. It is not as dense as lead. It is also more expensive.

Gold- soft, easy to cast and melt, but EXPENSIVE!!!! nearly $8,000 for a single 4 oz glande. Dense, almost as good as lead. Hard to get.

Steel/iron- Great ammo, I think it is overlooked. 3/4 and 1/2 inch re-bar is commonly found in a dump or near a broken-concrete dump. It is diffucult to cast into a good shape, as it does have a high melting point, but iron is easier to cast into a bicone. It tends to corrode.  Dense, but not as good as lead. Rebar cut into 2-3 inch lengths makes a good distance projectile. Plus its dirt cheap- maybe a few cents per shot.

Shaped stone- a lot of work for a little bit of ammo, but it flies good. Do not use it myself so do not know much about it. Ask Pikaru about it, he made some nice stones.

Clay biconical- very cheap, fast, good, but not as dense as stone. Also easier and MUCH quicker to make. However, unless you live in an area with natural clay reserves, it can be somewhat expensive, as shipping is COSTLY.  Or you can go to the pottery shop down the road... They probably have some.

Natural clay lumps/balls- good, consistant, fast, but can curve in flight. Cheap too.  can be a lot of work for some ammo... but not that much.

Dirt clods- good for beginning slingers:) Its what I learned with. I still use them.

Concrete-morter mix- good, cheap, and easy to shape. they sometimes shatter on impact. wet concrete is corrosive, be careful. It can also be abraisive.

Natural stone- Probably the most popular ammunition ever. Used for thousands of years for cheapness and power. It varies widely, from light chunks of volcanic rock to super dense round quartz river pebbles. landscaping rock is cheap.

the 1st time I have to worry bout too long post- its 10000 letters :):o
-Squirrel
:) :o :)

By the way, that took me 40 mins to type.
:o

Is no one gonna comment? I did not cover everything, did i?

If you've got the patience and the skill, you can make dang near any kind of sling from anything that's flexible and long enough (pine needles are obviously too short but sisal fibers aren't) and is relatively durable (plastic bags are reasonable, tissue paper isn't AFAIK  ;) ).

If you are just braiding something, just add in the loose fibers as you braid. Otherwise make everything into 2 ply cordage and proceed normally.

Page through the Sling and Slinging Pictures thread and you'll find a ton of designs. A lot of slinging and sling making is taking the initiative to do your own resarch and we try to make that pretty simple.

Look around and you'll learn plenty about sling making.

Regarding my favorite ammunition. I'll take allmost anything that'll fit in the sling pouch:Rocks of all kinds and shapes, tennis balls, wood, clay, whatever. Though if I were to recieve a large amount of free projectiles, I'd prefer 3.5 ounce FMJ lead glands.  :)

A very thorough response on your part SS. Well done!.


Mick

Mick wrote on Apr 11^th, 2013 at 6:40pm:

A very thorough response on your part SS. Well done!. Mick

Thanks, but I am not sure if that was worth the 40 mins of typing...