Woven Pouch Sling - Cliff
This is my build-along for a simple sling with a woven pouch, as shown below:
Mine is Para-cord, and 60 cm (2 ft) long from mid-pouch to the release knot. The pouch is 15 cm (6 in.) long, and the split in it is 9 cm (3.5 in.)
Materials and Tools
Cord - About 4 meters (13 feet). This length is approximate, it can vary depending on your cord and how tightly you weave it. I used para-cord for this tutorial. Para-cord does wear slightly when used with rocks, so if that is a concern, some other cord of similar thickness would be fine, and resist fraying better.
Sharp scissors or knife - to cut the cord. You will need to trim the cord very close in some spots.
Pen - to mark the cords.
Flame source - to melt the ends of the cord, and prevent fraying.
First cut your cord. You will need four pieces: two will be about 15 cm (6 inches) long, and two will be about 2 m (6 1/2 feet) long. Melt all the ends into large globs of plastic.
Tie a finger loop on the end of one of the long pieces, and a release knot on the end of the other.
Mark 2 feet from the knot/loop on each cord with a pen or twist ties or something, and 6 inches later, make another mark. These are the beginning and end of the pouch. Align the two cords at the marks with their knots facing different directions.
Take one of the long “tail” ends, and wrap it around the other cord, at the mark, as shown
Continue the wrapping, weaving the long tail end (I'll call the portion of the tail end that's doing the wrapping the weft) around and around the other two cords, which should remain straight (I'll call these the warp) until there are 3 wraps on each side, as shown. You will be doing a lot of weaving like this, it is important to keep an even tightness for every wrap, or the sling will be slightly uneven and lumpy looking.
Here’s where the two short pieces come in: lay them on top of the sling thus far as shown. They should be between the two cords that make up the warp, so that one of the short straight pieces and one warp cord will be partnered up on each side, acting as a single warp cord.
Continue to wrap the weft around, pairing up the short and long pieces as stated above.
Again, stop after three wraps on each side have been done since the short cords were introduced. Around here I like to tug on the loose ends of each of the short cords to get them close to flush where they are first joined in to the pouch. You can see I waited a while before I remembered to do this.
Here’s where we start the pouch, and this is where I always mess up: On the last wrap (so there will be three wraps on each side since the short cords were introduced), instead of bringing it past two cords and then bringing it up (between the two sets of two cords) as I accidentally did in the picture above, bring it past the first three cords, and then bring it up. The picture should make this clearer.
Continue weaving around the long and short cord on that side, so that each one serves as an independent warp. Continue this for about 9 cm (3.5 in.)
Now, just repeat the process, but with the other tail.
It is sort of hard to get all the cords correctly positioned, one side of the pouch may be longer than the other, or it may be deformed/pursed, so you might need to adjust it by tightening / pulling some of the warp cords. Needle nose pliers are a big help.
Trim and melt all the danglies. You can see in this picture, how the warp cords aren't properly tightened, as described in the step above. This is causing the pouch to purse funny. I had to go and tighten it again.
And here it is, completed:
One thing I learned is that large globs of molten plastic on the ends of the cords are key, it will prevent them from pulling through, and save you a lot of time.
I was able to make one, including measuring, cutting, adjusting, trimming, and melting, in less than 45 minutes. It’s easier than it looks, although it can be a little tricky in some parts.