Mersa
Interfector Viris Spurii
Online
Druid
Posts: 2599
Australia
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I went surfing one day , I was at a spot I don’t usually surf at. Conditions were good when we went out. Waves were big well big for me and I’ve grown up in the ocean.i was nervous to begin with as the surf was on the bigger size of my ability. A large “set” came rolling over the horizon so I started to make my move to get out of the way, at this point I was stuck in an undercurrent that formed at that exact time but didn’t realise as I was paddling with it. I ended up getting past the waves just as the wind switched, the ocean turned into a washing machine, I was struggling to stay afloat and rapidly dragged with the current I ended up about 1km off shore and about 4km away from where I started I was stuck between a paddle with the current around a large rock and reef system that would take me further away and not garrranteed safety or paddle against the current to try make it back to shore, I at this point was seriously worried. Conditions were getting worse and the water was like I’ve never been in before. I decided to paddle against the current and try to catch a wave , whatever the size just to get back to shore. I wasn’t scared of getting dumped anymore and was just scared of getting stuck in a worsening situation. I paddled with all my might non stop for over 40mins, I was physically exhausted I was at a point where I knew if I didn’t get the next set (wave) I was done for, at this point it was do or maybe die, I was scared more than I’d ever been, short of breath and could see dark clouds about to arrive, I was almost brought to tears, I ended up paddling as much as I could I missed to first wave of the set I thought this is it your dead, the next wave came I was further out then the last, I thought you gotta make it come on, I paddled and paddled I got on the face of the wave and just made it into the power, I was lifted up and smashed down into the depths I was so exhausted I just remember rag dolling across the ocean floor, I came up after being held down and luckily it was the last wave in the set, I was able to get back on my board and catch a few smaller swell lumps back to shore, I ended up a long way from my starting position and suffering from exhaustion I just sat on the sand, no people no one near me at all . While I caught my breath the storm hit the ocean turned violent and I realised I just made it. I wouldn’t have been able to if I was caught out there. After a hour plus walk back to my car I swore I’ll never surf those conditions again and always with someone. Silly me did a very similar thing about a year later, now I only surf the beaches I know to be tame and only in perfect conditions.
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