Bill Skinner
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Eastern Red Cedar that size tends to have lots of small knots. It is very good in compression and not so good in elasticy. This is the piece of wood to use your bamboo on and back. Leave a layer of sapwood, (the white) and leave as much heartwood (the red) as you can. You usually want about twice the heartwood to sapwood, if you back it with bamboo, thin the bamboo and thin the sapwood slightly more. If you don't have any knots, ignore this completely.
ERC doesn't make arrows all that well, remember those knots? And Port Orford Cedar is a cedar, not a juniper, and they were at least 100 years old when they were cut down and made into arrows.
I would go with a bending handle longbow, the longer the bow, the less strain there is on it.
My tools for making a bow are a hatchet, a drawknife, a small plane, a spokeshave and 1/2 a scissor that I use as a scraper. I rough out the bow with the hatchet, chase a ring with the drawknife and use the plane and the spokeshave to smooth the belly of the limbs til they are floor tillered. Once the limbs start bending, I start scraping. You can do the same work as the two tools (plane and spokeshave) with a 4 in 1 rasp, it will take longer.
I have never seen an arrow made of BL, I will be paying close attention to this. It should work, watch your grain runout.
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