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ASK QUESTIONS HERE (Read 303383 times)
Prince21
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #825 - Sep 18th, 2014 at 3:20pm
 
Thanks for the advice guys! I'll keep trying.


Masiakasaurus, I understand that throwing overhand is probably easier, but the biconical lead throwers of the past are usually depicted using sidearm releases so I'm sure theres a method to get consistent ballistic trajectory/spin.

I'll start practicing on consciously releasing the cord with my palm open towards the target, I guess its just finding that perfect angle/timing in which you release it in a way where momentum pushes it tip forward and it doesn't tumble but you still hit at what you're aiming at (I've gotten nice barrel spins but usually they're way off what I'm aiming for lol).

Thanks, anymore advice/input would be appreciated
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Prince21
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #826 - Sep 18th, 2014 at 3:39pm
 
Great vid Timpa, the way that hit when it penetrated/stuck into the board is exactly what I'm looking for lol.
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timpa
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #827 - Sep 20th, 2014 at 5:28pm
 
Good.  Smiley
Make a sometimes video you experiments.
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Masiakasaurus
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #828 - Sep 20th, 2014 at 6:16pm
 
Prince21 wrote on Sep 18th, 2014 at 3:20pm:
I'll start practicing on consciously releasing the cord with my palm open towards the target, I guess its just finding that perfect angle/timing in which you release it in a way where momentum pushes it tip forward and it doesn't tumble but you still hit at what you're aiming at (I've gotten nice barrel spins but usually they're way off what I'm aiming for lol).

Thanks, anymore advice/input would be appreciated

If you can make yourself release that way with a sidearm throw then you should get a consistent rifled spin. Just make sure that you don't twist your wrist late in the throw. That will make your projectile tumble despite your wrist position. FYI, I know what you're trying to do is possible. I've done it before.
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Pikåru wrote on Nov 19th, 2013 at 6:59pm:
Massi - WTF? It's called a sling. You use it to throw rocks farther and faster than you could otherwise. That's all. 
~Engineers like to solve problems. If there are no problems handily avialable, they will create their own problems.~
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Tomas
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #829 - Sep 22nd, 2014 at 7:16am
 
Ditto to what Masi said. As well, try slowing your throw down a little whole yore refining it- you can find the glitches easier that way and also find the good points too.
It took me a while to learn to rifle my shots but nowadays it's not even something I think about:)
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #830 - Sep 22nd, 2014 at 7:18am
 
While you're *
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #831 - Sep 22nd, 2014 at 11:28am
 
   You'll also find that it's a lot like riding a bicycle, Prince21.  After you do it a few times you'll have trouble launching a projectile without rifled spin.  It's just a matter of getting the feel of it.  And it doesn't have to be a biconical or any other particular shape  You'll get rifled spin with railroad rocks 
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Prince21
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #832 - Sep 23rd, 2014 at 9:27pm
 
Hey guys, thanks for the advice! I've finally been getting consistent rifling spins! I've been using a wider arcing motion before releasing it, and releasing it a little earlier to compensate for the wider angle that it's released at.


Masiakasaurus, thanks, your right, I found that limp wristing before the throw messes up trajectory, gotta throw with authority in the technique for it to work.

Timpa, Yes I probably will start to make a video or two, I'm getting o.k., I've killed goliath/large tree at about 20-40 yards every 1/3 shots lol.

Thanks again for all the advice, I'll continue to post on my development
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Prince21
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #833 - Sep 23rd, 2014 at 9:34pm
 
Do any of you guys have any experience with fired clay projectiles? I've made a few out of clay, they're obviously fragile and break upon hard impact, I was just wondering if it was worth the time/effort of firing them (I'd have to go out into the bush to do this) or if I should just make projectiles out of cement or something instead.

Thanks
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Bill Skinner
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #834 - Sep 23rd, 2014 at 11:07pm
 
I have fired mine.  This will be an all day job.  I use local clay that I dig, it has a lot of sand in it but it make a pretty good projectile.  You will have to make sure they are totally dry, I put mine in the oven overnight just under boiling temp to make sure.  If you use a fire, prewarm them by stacking them around the fire, on something that won't let them wick moisture from the ground, like a rock or a brick.  Heat them up, keep turning them so they heat evenly.  Start about a meter out and move them closer as they heat up.  When the fire burns down to coals, rake the coals out in a circle and put your clay glandes in the middle, still on your bricks.  Build the fire up slowly and evenly.  When the clay starts to change color, carefully stack more wood on until it is covered and you have a roaring bonfire.  You have to heat the clay to red hot.  And the hotter, the tougher.

Let the fire burn down and collect them the next day.

A few tips.

Collect your wood before you start.  You will need about a good pickup load, dead branches are fine as long as they aren't much larger than your wrist.  Try not to get wet  or damp wood.  You can use green wood to dry the ground.

Your pre warming fire is also drying out the ground, if the ground is damp, the clay will wick moisture and explode.  So make sure the ground is dry from the fire, that normally takes about 2-3 hours.

If you are using natural clay, it will have organics, when you put it in the center of the ring of coals, it will start to turn dark brown to black as the organics cook out, when it starts getting lighter is when you start adding lots more wood.

I usually start the fire after breakfast, let it burn until after lunch while prewarming the clay.  Rake it out into a circle, then tend it until it is time to start building it up.  Once I build it up to bonfire stage, let it burn down but don't try to remove the glandes, they will hold a lot of heat for a long time.  Wait until the next morning and be careful then, they can still be pretty hot.

The will bounce off a wooden target two to four times before breaking.  If you have thin wood, they can go through.  And they can bounce straight back, so be careful.
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #835 - Sep 24th, 2014 at 6:29am
 
Bill Skinner wrote on Sep 23rd, 2014 at 11:07pm:
I have fired mine.  This will be an all day job.  I use local clay that I dig, it has a lot of sand in it but it make a pretty good projectile.  You will have to make sure they are totally dry, I put mine in the oven overnight just under boiling temp to make sure.  If you use a fire, prewarm them by stacking them around the fire, on something that won't let them wick moisture from the ground, like a rock or a brick.  Heat them up, keep turning them so they heat evenly.  Start about a meter out and move them closer as they heat up.  When the fire burns down to coals, rake the coals out in a circle and put your clay glandes in the middle, still on your bricks.  Build the fire up slowly and evenly.  When the clay starts to change color, carefully stack more wood on until it is covered and you have a roaring bonfire.  You have to heat the clay to red hot.  And the hotter, the tougher.

Let the fire burn down and collect them the next day.

A few tips.

Collect your wood before you start.  You will need about a good pickup load, dead branches are fine as long as they aren't much larger than your wrist.  Try not to get wet  or damp wood.  You can use green wood to dry the ground.

Your pre warming fire is also drying out the ground, if the ground is damp, the clay will wick moisture and explode.  So make sure the ground is dry from the fire, that normally takes about 2-3 hours.

If you are using natural clay, it will have organics, when you put it in the center of the ring of coals, it will start to turn dark brown to black as the organics cook out, when it starts getting lighter is when you start adding lots more wood.

I usually start the fire after breakfast, let it burn until after lunch while prewarming the clay.  Rake it out into a circle, then tend it until it is time to start building it up.  Once I build it up to bonfire stage, let it burn down but don't try to remove the glandes, they will hold a lot of heat for a long time.  Wait until the next morning and be careful then, they can still be pretty hot.

The will bounce off a wooden target two to four times before breaking.  If you have thin wood, they can go through.  And they can bounce straight back, so be careful.


Great information!  I'm hoping that will be in the book?
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Sorry, but it's a pet peeve of mine:  'Yea' isn't the word you want.  It's 'yeah'.  'Yea' is an anachronistic word you see in the King James bible. "Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of Spellcheck, I shall fear no misspellings for thou art with me.  Thy dictionary and thy thesaurus, they comfort me.
 
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Prince21
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #836 - Sep 25th, 2014 at 8:04am
 
Wow, great information, thanks a lot, I'll post pictures once I try this
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Tomas
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #837 - Sep 25th, 2014 at 10:49am
 
I got my hands on a scrap of Dacron sail cloth just this week and apparently it's next to indestructible.
Has anyone ever made a sling pouch out of cloth/canvas? I considered making it apache style but I don't like apache slings lol
Any ideas? maybe origami or some fancy folding?
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #838 - Sep 30th, 2014 at 11:34am
 
    Make it using Aussie's Seatbelt Sling design.  That should be perfect, especially for heavier canvas.
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Re: ASK QUESTIONS HERE
Reply #839 - Sep 30th, 2014 at 4:30pm
 
The question is how thick the material is, and how floppy. If not stiff enough, double the layers for the pouch.
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