I forget what book I read about in, something post-apocalyptic. Anyway, the archers in it used spoons that had been hammered flat then sharpened as arrowheads.
 
As I have just ordered a longbow (linen backed red oak, 72 inches, 45-50 lb draw at 28 inches) and arrows seem to be rather expensive, I've decided to try making some.
 
I figured if I buy some dowels, and use the feathers that some geese were kind enough to molt in my yard, and make a few of those, I might could save a few dollars. So far my total investment is $6 for gorilla glue and spoons. Not sure how much the dowels are gonna run me.
 
I already flattened one spoon and shaped it as proof-of-concept. It's hideous, but I figure it's gonna me like pancakes and the first one's gonna be crap.
 
I'm not sure what I'm gonna use for a nock, so any advice there would be appreciated. Or any other advice for that matter, pointers are always nice.

I did this as a kid but to make a spear point rather than an arrowhead. I'm sure it will work just as well for that. In a post apocalyptic setting or a survival setting ( where you just happen to have a spoon with you I guess?  ) this should be more than sufficient to take game. Might want to salvage a better steel though if you plan on regular old deer hunting. Then again...never know maybe it will work great. Let us know how it works.  

GF, contact cement is the way to go. Of course it also can be difficult without a fletching jig but I would use it over super glue anyday.

Learn to knap and make bottle bottom arrowheads... broken toilet tank material for thunder chert/johnstone dart and lance points
http://www.cavemanchemistry.com/oldcave/projects/stone/bottle.html

 If you are just doing target shooting or small game hunting use 38 special cartridges for blunts.  The goose feathers will be good if they are large wing feathers, the wingtip feathers are best, you can tell them as one side is very narrow and you only make fletchings from one of the wider side.  If you make them from dowels be sure to look down the end of each one before you buy it to see if it is straight, if you go through a 100 you might find 5-20 that are straight enough so check before you buy them.  As for nocks you should cut and sand or use a file to put a notch in the back of each arrow then put some serving below that.

 Stone and glass points aren't very durable anyway, more good for hunting than target shooting.  You could try bone points though if you don't want to do any knapping.  
  Don't worry about lining up your point with the nock, it will be rotating anyway so I don't think that will matter.

I was in your same spot about a year ago and I found these videos to be very helpfull.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndjGHlvzqzU&feature=channel_video_title
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eESHbd-z-nA&feature=relmfu
 
The only thing I would do differently is buy your shafts from Allegheny Mountain Arrow Woods. They sell a dozen (hardwood ash) shafts for $26 and about $4.50 or so for steel blunts and field points, ranging from 125gr, 145gr, and even 160gr. And duct tape fletching will wor pretty well.  
Your nocks will break if you do not wrap them. I hand assemble my own arrows with the above parts and have a finshed product of a little less than $3 an arrow as opposed to $10-15 bucks you would normally pay.
 
When starting archery on a budget remeber the Rule of Nuff; If it shoots fast nuff and strong nuff, it's good nuff.  

DO NOT use a normal dowel rod from the hardware store.  They aren't designed to take the kind of stress shooting them from a bow will put on them.  You may get one or two shots, then the arrow will shatter from the strain.  All the energy from your shot goes into the arrow, putting a lot of stress on it.  If the arrow shatters, the stress goes to the limbs of the bow, maybe causing them to crack, much as if you had dry-fired the bow.  The limbs are supposed to supply the energy, not receive it.  You definitely don't want to use normal dowels for arrows, and you don't want to dry-fire your bow.