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Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins??? (Read 6178 times)
Stephen Curtin
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Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
May 27th, 2011 at 9:40am
 
Hi everyone, I just found this place and it seems to be a great wealth of knowledge, so hopefuly you guys can help answer a couple of questions for me.  I've been into medieval arms and armour for a couple of years now but lately my interest has turned to the more primative, so I was glad I stumbled across this place.

First off let me just say that I have absolutely no experience with any from of woodworking or any other crafts, but I've alot of free time on my hands and the patience to learn.  So with that in mind, what I would like to make is a wicker shield, and a couple of fire hardened javelins, for an Irish kern, which were light infantry, similar to ancient peltasts.

So does anyone have any advice or know of any good online tutorials for making a wicker shield?  As for the javelins I know that I'm goin to use holly but thats about it, as I'm not really sure what they should look like yet.  Should they simply be a stick sharpened to a point, or should the head be shaped more like a small spear head?  I've done a bit of reading here and I've learned that they should be fire hardened, but should I harden the whole piece of wood or just the tip?  If the whole thing needs hardening, then that might be difficult as I only have a small fireplace at home.  I've read that a gas hob can be used instead of a fire, but what about an electric hob, would this work, and how long would it take?  Also should the wood be shaped and sharpened before or after the hardening?  What about sealing the wood with the likes of lin-seed oil, would this be needed when all is done or is the hardening process sufficient.  Thanks in advance for any assistance.
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Masiakasaurus
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #1 - May 27th, 2011 at 10:49am
 
I whittle some, so I can give you some basic knowledge. Shape and sharpen before fire hardening. Don't burn the wood, like toast it's best to just get a dark brown color because the char tends to fall or scrape off. Only harden the portion of the javelin you need to be hard and leave the rest flexible to withstand impacts so you can use the javelin over and over. IDK what shape the tip should be, though; I have no experience recreating Irish weapons.

Were the wicker shields round? If so use this wicker basket tutorial to make a really big basket bottom. Once you get to the point where the spaces between spokes are getting awkwardly large switch to a larger diameter of wicker.

Will your version of an Irish warrior carry a sling by chance? Wink
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Pikåru wrote on Nov 19th, 2013 at 6:59pm:
Massi - WTF? It's called a sling. You use it to throw rocks farther and faster than you could otherwise. That's all. 
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Stephen Curtin
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #2 - May 27th, 2011 at 11:04am
 
First off yes along with the shield and javelins I will also be carrying a sling.  The Irish were known to be lovers of projectile weapons, throwing javelins, dart, stones, and if those failed throwing insults  Grin  Thanks for the tips on fire hardening though I'd still like to know if can be done over an electric hob and how long it should take.  I should have mentioned that the shield is supposed to be oval shaped and slightly convex.
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Masiakasaurus
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #3 - May 27th, 2011 at 11:15am
 
Gotta have a flame so an electric stove is out. Gas would work as you said, but best is just a plain old fire. It'll take a different amount of time depending on the diameter of your stick and the heat of your fire. Sorry, I can't be more specific than that.

To make the basket oval when you're making the cross in the basket tutorial use more reed on one arm than the other. When they spread out the 2 sides with more spokes will make you weave slightly oval. Add more spokes as you weave once the spaces between spokes get large enough, but only add spokes where the cross already made more spokes.
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Pikåru wrote on Nov 19th, 2013 at 6:59pm:
Massi - WTF? It's called a sling. You use it to throw rocks farther and faster than you could otherwise. That's all. 
~Engineers like to solve problems. If there are no problems handily avialable, they will create their own problems.~
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David Morningstar
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #4 - May 27th, 2011 at 11:19am
 

There is a weapon called the Kern dart, thrown with a cord, do you know much about it?

To fire-harden, push the point into the ashes at the edge of a fire so the wood is not exposed to air. It will turn brown without catching fire, but if it chars you have overdone it.
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Thearos
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #5 - May 27th, 2011 at 12:14pm
 
Can you not char the (unsharpened) end, scrape off charred bit, shape what's left and have a really strong point underneath ?
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Thearos
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #6 - May 27th, 2011 at 12:15pm
 
I'd also be interested to know how you get the weight right on the javelin, so that if flies and strikes point forward
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Masiakasaurus
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #7 - May 27th, 2011 at 12:26pm
 
Thearos wrote on May 27th, 2011 at 12:14pm:
Can you not char the (unsharpened) end, scrape off charred bit, shape what's left and have a really strong point underneath ?

No, because if you char the tip you over-harden it and make it prone to cracking with rough handling (like throwing). It's also much harder to work with already hardened wood.
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Pikåru wrote on Nov 19th, 2013 at 6:59pm:
Massi - WTF? It's called a sling. You use it to throw rocks farther and faster than you could otherwise. That's all. 
~Engineers like to solve problems. If there are no problems handily avialable, they will create their own problems.~
WWW elsabio04  
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David Morningstar
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #8 - May 27th, 2011 at 1:02pm
 
Thearos wrote on May 27th, 2011 at 12:15pm:
I'd also be interested to know how you get the weight right on the javelin, so that if flies and strikes point forward


I balance it one third back from the point. The natural taper of a sapling helps a lot if that is what you are using, otherwise a lot of woodworking is needed.

One thing that has surprised me is the tiny socket diameter of archaeologically recovered iron and bronze javelin points. These are often around the 1/2" mark. Either they were mounted on a forward taper, which I cant think of any reason for,  or they were on very skinny shafts.
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Stephen Curtin
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #9 - May 27th, 2011 at 2:10pm
 
Thanks everyone for the tips.  I'm still interested to here your opinion about oiling the finnished javelin.  The reason for this is mostly astethic, but I'm not sure if it would add some moisture after drying the wood out.

David, kern darts is a modern term used to describe the various type of javelin/dart used by irish kern.  Some had fletches, and looked very similar to atlatl projectiles, except that they were thrown by hand.  Others were just small light, spears, and some of these had a thong to help it spin in flight and gain some more distance.  The type with fletches are usually referred to as darts, while the type without are deferred to as javelins.
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Bill Skinner
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Re: Wicker shield and fire hardened javelins???
Reply #10 - May 27th, 2011 at 11:29pm
 
I have never made a javelin, I have made primitive arrows and atlatl darts.  Straighten the shaft before putting the point on, see the post on survival bows for how to straighten the shaft.  Any source of heat will work, if it gets hot enough to boil water.  Ash is a better wood than holly unless holly is what you can get.  Use a sapling, once you get it straight, your point should be the big end, as you scrape it to a point, the largest diameter of the shaft should be around the 3/4 to 5/6 mark, that should be your balance point also.  Never did a fire hardened tip, can't help you there.  When using heat to straighten, try not to scorch the shaft, it weakens it.  A good primitive finish is to burnish the shaft with a piece of bone and then wipe it down with a vegtable oil or animal fat.  I make spear shafts by ripping a rough cut 2X4 and then plane it round, then rasp off the marks and sand smooth.  These are thrusting spears, I prefer  white oak.  Bill
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