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MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES) (Read 6842 times)
LukeWebb
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MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Nov 9th, 2010 at 9:36pm
 
 I made these last winter, I used a sandstone slab and some water to grind them to shape and a chunk of flint about the size of a poolball to peck them to shape.  I'm not sure what stone they are made of as I don't know a lot about the names of stone, only their properties.  Each is about as big as my hand, though the black one is a little bit bigger as it is wider, I suppose I should have a size comparison in the photos.  They are quite sharp and I haven't hafted them yet as I don't really have any appropriate wood on hand.  I'm not sure if the black one has a long enough ?shank? on the back to wedge in securely enough so it may need rawhide wrapping or pitch, I'm not sure.

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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #1 - Nov 10th, 2010 at 7:55pm
 
I made my 1st greenstone celt the same way you did and then I hafted it in a cedar handle.  The next 8 or 10, I used a concrete picnic table.  Actually, 5 or 6 tables, as I ground, I would smooth the tops of the tables out.  You can get a great power stroke and you can get your shoulders in it.  My first one took about 80 hours as I would only work on it for an hour a day on a sandstone slab in my lap.  Now, I select my stones better, peck for an hour or two to roughly shape it, and then go to work on the picnic tables.  These are old, really rough, weathered concrete.  Nobody uses them anymore because they are so rough.  Depending on shape, I can grind a celt in 3-4 hours.  I then have to spend several more hours polishing them as the concrete leaves coarse scratches.

Are you going to mount yours?  Bill
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #2 - Nov 10th, 2010 at 10:03pm
 
You guys are very talented. All this stone work is completely beyond me. It looks extremely primal. I love the look of celts.
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LukeWebb
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #3 - Nov 11th, 2010 at 12:07am
 
  Celts are extremely easy to make really, they  just take time.  All you have to do is find a tapering roughly wedged shape rock, peck it with harder stone, (usually flint, quartz etc.) meaning to take a chunky piece of harder stone and tap it taking little chips about the size of a bobby pin head or less out with each wack.  You then take a slab of sandstone and wet it to stop it from producing rock dust and grind the celt smooth and give it an edge same as you would with a steel one it just takes longer.
  It took me about 3-4hours to grind the greenish one and about 3 times that for the blackish one as the edge was much bigger and the back is sharpened too.  It took me about 2 hours to peck the small one and about 8 hours to peck the black one to shape.  I don't know if I will make one again unless I find a really good rock for it as it is very hard work, I can make quite a few knapped points in the time it takes to make one of those.
  I am planning to haft them but I don't have a good piece of wood for it yet and I'm not sure if the black one may require some rawhide wrapping.
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #4 - Nov 11th, 2010 at 9:18pm
 
Those big celts just had a hole drilled/burned through the handle.  It is tapered the same as the celt.  The celt only touches on the top and bottom, as you chop, it wedges tighter.  Don't let the sides touch, as the celt settles deeper, it will act like a wedge and split your handle. 

The museum at Moundville, Al. has a celt in a white oak handle that is about 1500 years old.  It fell into the Tombigbee River and was covered by silt and mud which prevented oxygen from getting to the wood handle.  It is about 1 meter long, the handle tapers the whole length to the head which flares to an oval with the celt in the center.  It looks like a large match stick with a tapered stick.  The stick taperes down to slightly larger than your thumb.  There is no signs of lashing or pitch, the sides have a tiny gap, the top and bottoms are 1/4 the diameter and are fitted perfectly.  Bill
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #5 - Nov 13th, 2010 at 5:50am
 
I think i may try and make one of these any tips on what stones work best or dose any one have pics of what the stone looked like before u strared to shape it as for the sanding would a side walk work?
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #6 - Nov 13th, 2010 at 10:39am
 
Rat, greenstone is the prefered material. it's the hardest, but any smooth dense stone will do. try and find flat river cobbles already in the shape you want and just work the edge. a sidewalk will work fine, but be prepared to sit there grinding for a LONG time. keep it wetted.
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #7 - Nov 13th, 2010 at 4:44pm
 
all of these were stones that i found at the river

i just look around till i find a nice shaped one then i trow it against some other rocks to make sure its worth messing with  Grin

(the dogwood handle has aged really nice since this pic)
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this is the only one ive used really, i cut a small 6 " tree down with it
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #8 - Nov 13th, 2010 at 4:51pm
 
and this is my 1st celt

while the celt itself is pretty nice, i didnt do a good job on the handle or hafting. but i learned soon afterwards about the right way to do it

so i took the celt out and im planing on making a new dog wood handle for it
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #9 - Nov 13th, 2010 at 4:53pm
 
most of these are to round but it sorta gives you the idea on what to look for
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #10 - Nov 14th, 2010 at 9:35am
 
Nice work! I like collecting useful rocks. I tend to find the best flat ones in the deeper sections of old riverbeds, and the best rounded/ovate speciments higher up toward the banks.

A lot of aussie stone axes were either those long, oval stones or quite rectangular. But the same method of selection, shaping and then grinding usually applied. Noone uses em anymore, who has half a morning to cut down a tree!

Many smaller axes were "vine axes"... supple, flexible canes folded in half, with a stone head in the fold and lashing below it. Made for a reason and then discarded afterwards but some would carry the heads and make handles as needed.

Very tidy work though, thanks for sharing Smiley I have a perfect stone I found a while ago, just have to find some motivation.

Some of the most significant cultural sites here are old axe grinding sites, almost always sandstone ledges or outcrops next to a watersource. Some were used nearly continuosly for ten thousand years or more.

Does that PPG hold up ok to belting through a log or branch? I'd feel bad using any of those pieces to actually cut anything!

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LukeWebb
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #11 - Nov 14th, 2010 at 11:29am
 
  Great axes guys!  I have a bunch of stones I have found myself that I am planning to use, not many riverbeds around here so I have to get them off of beaches and that can be difficult to find any from my experience.  When I mentioned the pitch and that it is just because the taper of the one black/gray axe is kind of curved inward and I'm not sure it would wedge in well enough, so I might have to have some other means of affixing it to the handle.
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #12 - Nov 14th, 2010 at 4:43pm
 
after i realized that i did a bad job hafting it i tried to make it look better with pitch. but it isnt needed if its done properly
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #13 - Nov 15th, 2010 at 12:17am
 
  It's cool to see how many of us do a lot more than just make slings, I actually made those axes around the same time I made my first sling, and man was it bad.
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Re: MY UNHAFTED CELTS, (STONE AXES)
Reply #14 - Nov 15th, 2010 at 3:52pm
 
I was making copper bladed axes with cedar handles about a year before I found this site.  I got tasked to build a repro of the ax in Moundville, after leaping through hoops to get it ready in time for a display, they decided not to use it.  Oh well, they paid for it, they can do whatever they want with it.

I have found that if I charred the wood and then scraped it out, it is actually fairly easy to fit the celt to the handle.  I drill a too small hole, then I use a small propane torch to enlarge and shape.  I use a pocket knife and a round rasp to do my scraping.  It, like grinding the celt, is fairly easy but very time consuming.  The last one I made, I charred and scraped the handle, also  As far as the burn then scrape for white oak, I probably re-invented the wheel.  Bill
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