Nice, if you have a craft store nearby you could get suitable feathers for fletchings there, I go to Micheals, they aren't the best but they work, just make sure they are big and the feathers are stiff not floppy.  Copper tubing is great for arrowheads, steel tubing is better though if you can find it.  Also try to find a hardware store where they have a big load of dowels, as very few dowels are straight, and they MUST be straight to work worth a darn for an arrow.  You may go through 20-40 dowels before you find one straight enough, but remember you won't need a whole big long dowel to be straight, just a piece long enough to make your arrow out of.

I am not an archer, but I recall having read somewhere that dowels can be dangerous for arrow shafts, because they are too prone to break on release.

I think it would be a shame to cut those leather items up for pouches...

LukeWebb wrote on Jul 31^st, 2010 at 10:18am:


we have a lot of geese down near the Detroit river and there's always feathers around



LukeWebb wrote on Jul 31^st, 2010 at 10:18am:


gonna head over to Canadian Tire and do the " roll'm on the floor " trick
i'll grab 2-4 to start
the cheapest i've seen for arrows is $16.99 ( plus tax ) for 3 target arrows

Don't cut up the gun scabbard!  It wouldn't be half as cool as a sling!  You don't know where it came from, look up the background, see who made it and how old it is.  Maybe it's just the collector in me talking, but don't cut that up!  It would be a shame, get some scrap leather for slings.

If you just want to try the bow out...  Somewhere printed on it should be the draw weight, usually expressed as something like 45# , or maybe 45@28  indicating it pulls 45 pounds at a 28" (standard" draw).
Go over to Walmart or Sports authority or whatever and buy a half-dozen of their cheap aluminum arrows.  They are only a few bucks apiece and are, if not great, at least adequate.
You'll be able to use the draw-weight of your bow to get the correct "spine", or stiffness.    If the spine is off, you'll shoot either to the left or right.

Making your own arrows is great fun, but don't expect great results unless you're willing to put in some time and effort.   
I have used hardware-store dowels, when they were made of Ramin wood.  Decent... But you have to sort through them and make sure you're getting grain that goes the length of the shaft.
Of a dozen I made.... Some shot here, some shot there...  I had about 3 that would go where I wanted them to.

There are all sorts of good "primitive" archery sites on the web with directions for making your own arrows.

I hav used the wooden dowels for arrows.  The best are ash, then ramen, then poplar, then oak.  For bows that are marked 45#@28' OR LESS, you want 5/16" or 6.5mm.  Ramen or oak, 1/4" or 6mm is OK.  Steel is better than copper, copper will react to any glue you use and eventually come off.

The bow looks like either a 76'er, a Minute Man or a Patriot.  Which model depends on the color of the limb and riser and whether the limbs are solid glass or glass/wood laminates.  I have had several but usually give them to kids, you would have to seriously abuse that bow to tear it up.

I also vote to not cut up the rifle scabbard.  If you are looking for some leather, get the tounge from an old worn out pair of boots.  Bill

ok, i'll admit i bit off more than i could chew with the scabbard
i didn't realize just HOW THICK this leather would be

BAD NEWS, i've already cut into the smaller piece
the smaller piece goes over the longer piece to cover the rifle butt



GOOD NEWS, i'm not going to cut the rifle scabbard itself
the butt cover will give me enough THICK leather to experiment with

i have a couple pieces in water to see if they will soften up