got any arrows ? And if so how well does the bow shoot them ?

it did work but then it snaped but then i made another one out of maple and it works alot better

how do you tiller it?

The Primitive Archer site I mentioned will give you links to many build-a-longs and tutorials.    Here's a site devoted to building a bow from a sapling, essentially straight from the forest:

http://www.primitiveways.com/sapling_bow.html

Note that unless you're very experienced, a fresh, green piece of wood is not going to work.  It has to be debarked and dried properly first.  Drying has to be done slowly so that the wood won't check or split.  Usually, with a fresh stave, we seal the ends with rubber cement or something similar. 
Drying can be done in open air (like a shed) or speeded up a bit with some equipment.

"Tillering" is the process of making a good working bow.  It involves carefully and progressively removing wood (being mindful at all times of the grain, knots, and so forth) so that the wood bends smoothly, evenly, and progressively.   

If you're serious about making a good bow, do some research.   
My first one failed after a few weeks.  The second and third are still going strong.

Draw knives are handy for certain chores, notably taking Osage staves down to a single growth ring.    However, not really necessary.  Not having one, I made do with an old machete.  Worked quite well!

For simple wood removal and shaping, I've found nothing better than the Stanley sure-form rasp.  These come in a couple of styles, and have replaceable blades.  They remove a lot of wood in a hurry, and are great for rough shaping.
Then, a standard Nicholson 4-sided rasp.
Scrapers are the best for final finishing, they remove wood in a very controlled manner, and leave an almost-finished surface.   Again, no great investment, mine are made from sections of banding steel which can also furnish primitive "trade" arrowheads.

The most useful device I've found so far is one of those carpenter's adjustable clamps, the kind with the sliding arm for rough adjustment, then a twist-handle to tighten up.