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Woven sling pockets - now with instructions! (Read 34327 times)
wannabeslinger
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Woven sling pockets - now with instructions!
Jan 15th, 2007 at 3:02am
 
Hello, I was wondering if anyone could show me how to make a weaved sling split pouch or not

thanks  Smiley

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« Last Edit: Jan 20th, 2007 at 12:59pm by Matthias »  
 
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bwanasimba
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #1 - Jan 15th, 2007 at 1:09pm
 
I would like to see something on that also. Where did you find the photo?
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #2 - Jan 15th, 2007 at 4:01pm
 
There is a lot on this site already, I'll give you some links:
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?board=1;action=display;num=1060609211 (reply 4)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?board=1;action=display;num=1073633453 (long texts and some info hidden therein.)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?board=1;action=display;num=1093816689;start=0 (follow the link to wampun wampist)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1093816689/15 (reply 22 has a sketch of how to make the conversion into the pouch.)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?board=1;action=display;num=1108791726;start=1 (explanations in words)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153811117/8#8 (several different bits to follow)
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1120598015 (again a lot of info.)

Hope this helps a bit, (it is likely too much.)

Willeke
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #3 - Jan 15th, 2007 at 4:10pm
 
Nice looking slings!

The trick with woven pockets is setting up the split and figuring out what to do with any extra strands that you might need. The ones in the Pic are "8" strand pouches, 4 in each side. It looks to me like some of those are dropped, or cut short as the pouch tapers, which is a little tougher to do well. A better alternative might be to just pair the cords and continue weaving.

----tapering part----
1 bundle of 8
2 bundles of 4
4 bundles of 2
----split pouch----
2 bands, 4 strands each
----repeat taper----

Barak Bruard has some
very good instructions with lots and lots of pictures
, about how to do this. This is for a much more complicated braided sling, but the pouch is similar.

The ones in the picture above look like they might be built on a loop of warp yarns.

Matthias
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #4 - Jan 15th, 2007 at 5:01pm
 
Amras' pictures in the wiki are probably the best ones we have - I'd forgotten about them Embarrassed

http://www.slinging.org/wiki/index.php?title=Methods_of_making_Slings_%28Modern_...

Matthias
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #5 - Jan 15th, 2007 at 6:05pm
 
For those of you that might be interested in making these, here are some photos of a "looped warp" pouch I just made (looks like it takes about an hour)... All one strand (sometimes there is an extra carried along the out warp). Wink

...

...

...

...

These might be good for people who want adjustable cords, or like to use paracord but would like something a little different than the usual leather pouch. Also a very good way to practice up your pouch weaving before tackling a full-patterned braided cord (80% of the work?).

I think that there should be room to even out the taper a bit by stepping down one bundle at a time rather than doubling the strands each transition. Maybe something like:

8
4/4
3/1/1/3
2/1/1/1/1/2
1/1/1/1 - 1/1/1/1

Work just fine the way it is though!

Matthias
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #6 - Jan 15th, 2007 at 6:11pm
 
Willeke and Matthias, thank you for the links! Now I just need to find the time to try this out. It looks like it takes a bit longer than the braided slings I made.

Edit: And thanks for the pictures. I just saw them after pressing the Post button.
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #7 - Jan 16th, 2007 at 9:21am
 
Thanks for all the links and the photos!!
Very helpful. I think I give it a try this weekend.
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #8 - Jan 16th, 2007 at 1:32pm
 
This is why I love Slinging.org!  There is always something new to learn!  Matthias, I never thought of braiding the pouch separately from the cords.  I just assumed that the way Barak Bruard showed, in his web site, was the way to do it: braid the retained cord, switch to weaving for the pouch, then braid the release cord.  This would be very much faster to do.  And I can combine a woven pouch with nylon cords, or I could braid some cords separately and tie them to the pouch. Thank you!
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #9 - Jan 16th, 2007 at 4:15pm
 
You can also mix the two ways.
Braid with just 3 or 4 strings, add the pouch this way, using those 3 or 4 strings instead of a few of the loops, and braid the release again.
Thanks Matthias.

Willeke.
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #10 - Jan 16th, 2007 at 6:16pm
 
Yes - this one actually is a really good candidate for the "loops on a string" type of construction. Glad everyone approves.

I tried the tapered version I brought up above, and it works pretty nicely. I mostly remembered to take pictures this time, so here is a mini-article:

Matthias
Here is the simple loom and twine I'm using. Using a loop of twine instead of just a second peg for the warp (up and down strings Wink) makes it a bit easier to manoever, and you can slacken the warp if it gets too tight. The twine is #18 nylon, and this particular stuff has a slightly sticky coating. Mason twine etc would be suitable, or sisal, braided fishing line, wool...
...
You need to leave yourself enough twine to do the loops AND all the back and forth weaving (the weft). A good estimate would probably be 5 times the length of the pouch, times the number of warp strands. For this 8"(20cm) pouch, I used about 6.5m, but I ran a tiny bit short and had to compensate - the formula would give you 8m(320"). It's much easier to cut off some extra at the end than to add more!

Find the middle of the long twine, and fold that around the hook/peg at one end. Now using both strands, make two loops each. You should end up with 4 loops, giving you eight warp strands, as well as two weft strands at the top of the work.
...
We're going to carry one of those strands down the side of the pouch until we need it at the split. This does make that side a little thicker, but not enough to worry about. If you *really* want everything symmetric the best I can suggest is to add a dummy cord to the other side to match. You could cut this flush when you're done with it - no need to tie it in as the binding will be more than adequate.

Work the other weft strand back and forth, making little figure-eights around the two bundles of warp - 4 on one side, 5 on the other. The key to a good looking weave is to not try to tension the weft at all. The type of weaving we are aiming for is called "weft faced" - when it is done you can't see the warp, the weft strands compact to form an even surface. This type of weaving doesn't have the "basketweave" look that say a placemat might have. It works well for slings because it's tidy. wider than normal, and the load-carrying warp strands are protected from wear.
...
After an appropriate numer of passes  (8 of so - count the "bumps" on one side) increase the width of the weave by dividing the bundles into 4/1/1/3 (remember that extra one - but try to ignore it). You'll have a bit of a funny transition here, but you can figure it out! You'll notice so far that all of the wraps on each side go the same direction... when we add a strand it upsets the rythm a bit and you'll probably end up with a double row, where the strand you are working with follows the same pattern as before. You can avoid this by switching to the new 3/1 pattern just before you finish the last row, rather than waiting until after. The weft will wrap the opposite direction at the edges, and there might be a little gap, but this way will give you a smoother surface... Try it both ways! You can always back up...
...
This is the trick to getting a nice tight surface. Weave in the weft relatively slack, and then push it up into the work every pass or so. I'm about to increase again to 3/1/1/1/1/2. The transitions in the body of the pouch were made after 4 back-and-forths, but you could alter the taper to suit the legth of the pouch you are making!
...
2/1/1/1/1/1/1/1 - 4 rows of this, and then we are ready to split the pouch. Finish with your working strand on the opposite side to the edge with the extra warp.
...
Aha! Now we have two strands to work with - one for each side of the pouch. The next part is easy, just go back and forth using only the 4 strands on one side until the length looks about right.
...
Same with the other side!
...
Joining is easy - just tuck your original weft strand into the edge (don't remember which one it is? Hint: It's the shorter one! Wink). Use the other weft strand to work 4 rows of back and forth over all 8 strands.
...
Taper the pouch down using the same schedule as the beginning. For some reason this seems easier, but you'll have to figure out the best way to approach each change again to avoid double rows.

Once you get down to the 2-bundle stage, lay an extra loop of twine along the edge that doesn't have the extra warp in it (the thinner one), continue weaving, covering that loop as well. We'll use it at the end to pull the tail of the last bit of twine back into the weaving, making a nice strong and tidy finish.
...
...
Almost done! Pull the tail through (you might have to pull pretty hard)
...
Snip the two tails flush with the surface and you're done! Nice Work! Cool
...
Woven split pouches hold rocks very well. The extra width and stiffness makes them easier to handle than braided pockets, and the shape is as good or better than most simple leather pouches. Tie on some bootlaces or braid up some custom cords and go slinging! Maybe next time we'll figure out those fancy-looking peruvian braids?
...
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« Last Edit: Jan 17th, 2007 at 1:26pm by Matthias »  
 
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Re: how to make a weave sling
Reply #11 - Jan 16th, 2007 at 6:26pm
 
Most excellent post Matthias!!!!

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Re: Woven sling pockets - now with instructions!
Reply #12 - Jan 22nd, 2007 at 1:06pm
 
thx Matthias that should keep me busy for a few hours i think Grin
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Re: Woven sling pockets - now with instructions!
Reply #13 - Jan 22nd, 2007 at 4:50pm
 
Matthias,

I built me a rig like yours from a pine board and two cup hooks.  I'm about a third of the way through weaving a pouch.  I am not, of course, getting as clean an appearance as you do, which I attribute to lack of experience.  However, I notice some differences between my setup and your pictures, so I have a question.

You instructed us not to put any tension on the weft, as we work, and I have been leaving that loose (just packing the threads down as I work, with my fingers or a small nail).  However, I did put some tension on the warp before I started.  It appears from your photos, that you did not; the warp threads are rather loose.  Would tensioning the warp threads, cause me any problems?  Would starting over with the warp looser, help?  (OK, I guess that's two questions...)
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Re: Woven sling pockets - now with instructions!
Reply #14 - Jan 22nd, 2007 at 5:03pm
 
Dale,
I have not worked with this rig, but I have woven a fair bit.
(And you never know when Matthias will be in next.)

You need a little tension on the warp. It will still work when there is a lot of tension, but when there is no tension it is very hard working.

One way of tensioning is just pressing down the warp when you packing down the weft, which is when you need that tension most.

Willeke
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