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weft and warp (Read 3594 times)
WildAtHeart
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woo hoo

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weft and warp
Feb 19th, 2005 at 12:42am
 
I know alot of you have had experience weaving pockets and I need some advice...

I would like to weave a help sling, perhaps with an 8-strand braid and then add in 8 or 16 more a few inches before the pocket and then weave it. I have some 1mm hemp and some 2mm hemp, and that's really all. I don't think I have the patience to do it all with the 1mm, and I don't think it would hold up as well. Would it be better to use the thin or the thick hemp for the weft or warp? Seems like it would go faster with the thick stuff as the weft but it might deform a little bit. What do you guys think?
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Willeke
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Re: weft and warp
Reply #1 - Feb 19th, 2005 at 4:02pm
 
WildAtHeart,
Being a textile person I give you a textiles answere. I hope an experienced slinger will give you a slingers answere. I just slung my first today.
http://www.slinging.org/forum2/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=1;action=display;num=11088454...

I would go for the 2 mm string for the braiding, and go on with the same string for the warp of the pocket. If you start dividing your string in four sections for a few wefts and then divide in 8 and then in 16  you will get a smooth transfer from braid to weave, and do the same at the other end of the pouch to start the other braid. Or start with weaving, ending in a narrow strip at both ends and braid from there.

I would choose the stronger string for the warp, it getting the most wear, (I think) and use the weaker string for the weft. Thicker string is not always stronger, so do a little test when in doubt.

When you say that the thicker string will go faster weaving you are right but not by much. If you use smooth hemp, you may want to get the weft close together but if the hemp is untreated and a little rough in finish, you may leave spaces between the wefts.
Weaving a pouch, even a big one, does not take all that much work and you get more pleasure out of one you think is poperly made.

If you surf the web to a weaving site, look for a warp faced weave, a weft face weave and a linnen weave. (The last may have a different name but I mean the one where all the strands can be seen, like in a bedsheet.)
This may help you find the structure you need.

Succes,
Willeke
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"Never underestimate what a simple person can do with clever tools, nor what a clever person can do with simple tools." - Ian Fieggen - Writer of A booklet on lanyards, PM for info - Member IGKT, Netherlands
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Thori
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Re: weft and warp
Reply #2 - Feb 19th, 2005 at 11:16pm
 
What Willeke described with dividing into 4, 8, then 16 is precisely what I did to make my jute twine slings, both of which I am quite satisfied with.  The pouch may look a little small when it's done, but it will hold a load!  Also, the jute twine I used was probably at least 2mm.
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WildAtHeart
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woo hoo

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Re: weft and warp
Reply #3 - Feb 20th, 2005 at 1:29am
 
Okay, that is sort of what I had in mind as well.

How do you go about weaving? Do you just hold the whole project in your hand, weave another line, and work it back with your hand? Or do you use a loom or something?
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Willeke
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Re: weft and warp
Reply #4 - Feb 20th, 2005 at 3:51am
 
WildAtHeart
I have been looking for links on this forum and found many, I think you can get the information you ask for in the following:

http://www.slinging.org/gallery.html page one, third from the bottom, by Paul

http://www.slinging.org/forum2/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=1;action=display;num=11083574...

http://www.slinging.org/forum2/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=1;action=display;num=10938166... (reply 1 by English and read the whole subject, there is a lot of info there)

Willeke
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"Never underestimate what a simple person can do with clever tools, nor what a clever person can do with simple tools." - Ian Fieggen - Writer of A booklet on lanyards, PM for info - Member IGKT, Netherlands
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Thori
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Re: weft and warp
Reply #5 - Feb 21st, 2005 at 10:17pm
 
I use a 2x4, about three feet long, with 1/2" wooden dowels set near each end, as vertical posts.  I slip the finger loop over one, stretch out the work, and tie it off at the other.  This doesn't provide as much tension as a bow loom but can be easier to make/procure if bow materials aren't available.

ASCII drawing, side-view:

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WildAtHeart
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woo hoo

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Re: weft and warp
Reply #6 - Feb 22nd, 2005 at 12:22pm
 
Okay, so to weave it requires a certain amount of tension along the length of the string. When I go about weaving, after a thread one length across (with fingers or a needle) do I proceed then to 'smash' it back with my fingers, or with a comb, or what?
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Willeke
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Give me some string and
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Re: weft and warp
Reply #7 - Feb 22nd, 2005 at 1:17pm
 
WildAtHeart,
While tension on the warp is not absolutely nescesary, it makes weaving so much easier that a beginner would be stupid not to do it.
How to beat the weft in its place depends on the scale of the work more than anything else. For the small size a sling is going to be, a single spike will be enough. I weave small sizes with a heavy needle, (about 2 mm across 15 cm long) or use a nylon netting needle, and use that to beat the string into place too. You can also just use your fingers, I would, but I found that many people find the small controle tiring.
For bigger sizes combs and beaters are used but that is like using a canon to fire a marble.

If you are not sure about what will work, just start and see how it goes. It is easier than it seems. (Little girls are made to do it age 4, and are able too.)

Willeke
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"Never underestimate what a simple person can do with clever tools, nor what a clever person can do with simple tools." - Ian Fieggen - Writer of A booklet on lanyards, PM for info - Member IGKT, Netherlands
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WildAtHeart
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woo hoo

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Re: weft and warp
Reply #8 - Feb 22nd, 2005 at 8:18pm
 
Thanks for the info, Willeke

I am going on Spring break soon and will have a lot of time to work on my new woven sling!
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