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Message started by squirrelslinger on Mar 12th, 2013 at 8:56pm

Title: Trading for arrows
Post by squirrelslinger on Mar 12th, 2013 at 8:56pm
I now am the proud owner of a 50 pound recurve bow, it shoots VERY fast- in the low 170's.
I usually use carbon fiber arrows(Hey, I got $60 worth of arrows for Christmas, I am not going to complain), but am starting to use my "primitive" arrows on the bow... broke most of them, and my arrow-shafts arent even round. I cannot buy fiberglass arrows- I break them with every shot... Thank God my armgaurd is just a copper bracer... I need some good, strong, wood arrows that I can trust. Just shafts would be cool, I can fletch reasonably well... But I would be happy to trade some extra stuff for the fletching. I have a 16ga wire arrowrest, and it rips up artificial fletch as nothing else. Turkey feathers have worked in the past, but that was when my neighbor used to hunt and could provide me with them. Fletch is not the major problem. Shafts are. my hand plane has a rather chipped blade, and I still havent been able to fork the $15 to replace it. I will be mailing arrowheads and slings on Fri so I would like to arrange a trade before then, or in the next few weeks. I would like to get about a dozen shafts or so, I trust you guys on quality( I would order online, but dont have $$$ and dont trust them after I got some of the world's crappiest arrows. they were warped more than an inch.)
I only need 26-28 inch arrows. I have points(target points that is, I have to mail all my broadheads).
I would like to trade slings/ maybe a ground slate axhead...
I have some paracord.. some leather... some rawhide...
and a TON of pistol crossbow darts I made from bamboo skewers, would trade 50 for 6 arrows(fletched and nocked).
Thanks in advance,
-Squirrel
Oh, and I can probably trade BL billets... maybe. When this crud seasons.

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Thunder Chief on Mar 13th, 2013 at 2:35am
You're breaking carbon fiber arrows with a 50# recurve? You shooting at brick walls?
You can use 3/8" oak dowels for shafts. You have to comb through the pile, but straight ones work well.

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by squirrelslinger on May 13th, 2013 at 2:22am

Thunder Chief wrote on Mar 13th, 2013 at 2:35am:
You're breaking carbon fiber arrows with a 50# recurve? You shooting at brick walls?
You can use 3/8" oak dowels for shafts. You have to comb through the pile, but straight ones work well.

some times I glance on tree limbs. it happens pretty often. wood arrows usually survive, they are flexible enough. carbons usually break right near the vanes.
tried the dowel idea... but with Ramin wood dowels.. works pretty good...

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Bill Skinner on May 13th, 2013 at 12:49pm
What kind of carbons are you using?

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by squirrelslinger on May 13th, 2013 at 3:32pm

Bill Skinner wrote on May 13th, 2013 at 12:49pm:
What kind of carbons are you using?

Easton Gamegetters, I think. Sure its easton, but not sure on the other part.
I can photograph the breaks if you want. its right near fletching.

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Bill Skinner on May 14th, 2013 at 10:28am
If it is breaking just above the fletch, it's because the arrow is fishtailing or waving back and forth in flight.  And the arrow is fishtailing because it is not spined correctly for the bow or because of a lousy release or both combined.  Or, least likely, the vanes are bouncing off the side of the bow as the vanes go by the riser.  Which is also a spine issue.  What is the number on the arrow?  It will be either 150, 250 or 350 or .600, .500, .400 or something like that.  Also, you need feathers instead of vanes, unless you have an arrow rest like one on a compound bow.

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by squirrelslinger on May 14th, 2013 at 4:34pm

Bill Skinner wrote on May 14th, 2013 at 10:28am:
If it is breaking just above the fletch, it's because the arrow is fishtailing or waving back and forth in flight.  And the arrow is fishtailing because it is not spined correctly for the bow or because of a lousy release or both combined.  Or, least likely, the vanes are bouncing off the side of the bow as the vanes go by the riser.  Which is also a spine issue.  What is the number on the arrow?  It will be either 150, 250 or 350 or .600, .500, .400 or something like that.  Also, you need feathers instead of vanes, unless you have an arrow rest like one on a compound bow.

It is breaking right where the bark marks are from where it hit and glanced off of branches( I hung my target in a tree. and I am shooting off my hand, with leather protection, except when I shoot a #50 fibergl@$$ recurve. :) I tried feathers, they are much better for everything. it says .400...

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Dan on May 15th, 2013 at 8:41am
What's your draw length? I draw about 26" most of the time and I use 30" arrows. The extra length helps with stability, plus it keeps the spine down. Just word of advice, if you spend $10 and buy 8 or so arrow shafts, keep them on the long side and you'll need to do some sanding.

If you're up for a lot of work, you can also try to find some spare lumber, split it into half inch by 32 inch sections and plane it down to an 11/32 arrow shaft.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,39429.0.html

It doesn't take much money or effort to get a decent arrow, but a great primitive arrow will take a lot of commitment. Here's the easy solution, but chances are you will have some problems with the vanes, but it'll still shoot forward.  :)
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,25724.0.html


Primitive Archery isn't for everyone, but if you do want to excell you are going to have to put some dirt time in and learn some new skills. I know you are on PA pretty often, if you ask there for different ways to make arrow shafts you'll get many answers. From there, its just a matter of work to actually get some product.

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Bill Skinner on May 15th, 2013 at 12:31pm
SS, if the arrow is flying correctly, it wil have "gone to sleep" or stopped oscillating in about 5-9m.  That's for carbons, everything else takes longer.  A 50# bow is borderline between .500 and .400, they are difficult to tune with carbons.  Like Dan said, they are better if you leave them longer.  What is your draw length and anchor point?

Feathers work better than vanes because feathers have a rough side and a smooth side, they cause the arrow to spin with out having to fletch them in a helical style.  They also have more air resistance, so they correct the arrow much quicker than vanes.  

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Bill Skinner on May 15th, 2013 at 12:32pm

Bill Skinner wrote on May 15th, 2013 at 12:31pm:
SS, if the arrow is flying correctly, it wil have "gone to sleep" or stopped oscillating in about 5-9m.  That's for carbons, everything else takes longer.  So, the side of the arrow will not hit branches.  A 50# bow is borderline between .500 and .400, they are difficult to tune with carbons.  Like Dan said, they are better if you leave them longer.  What is your draw length and anchor point?

Feathers work better than vanes because feathers have a rough side and a smooth side, they cause the arrow to spin with out having to fletch them in a helical style.  They also have more air resistance, so they correct the arrow much quicker than vanes.  



I left out that one sentence, I have a net wire fence behing my target set up, when I miss, I lose a fletch if I hit a wire, I don't remember ever breaking an arrow that hit the fence.  Now, my cousin, when he was your age, would hit the fence, he would break the arrow almost every time.  And, almost every time, it was due to a lousy release, which is why he would miss in the first place.  

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by squirrelslinger on May 15th, 2013 at 4:32pm

Dan wrote on May 15th, 2013 at 8:41am:
What's your draw length? I draw about 26" most of the time and I use 30" arrows. The extra length helps with stability, plus it keeps the spine down. Just word of advice, if you spend $10 and buy 8 or so arrow shafts, keep them on the long side and you'll need to do some sanding.

Primitive Archery isn't for everyone, but if you do want to excell you are going to have to put some dirt time in and learn some new skills. I know you are on PA pretty often, if you ask there for different ways to make arrow shafts you'll get many answers. From there, its just a matter of work to actually get some product.

My uncle(who is a modern compound archer) insisted that I get them cut to 27". I like to draw it to 28" with the ramin wood arrows...
Which are made from dowels. and are 32" long.

I want locust cause I have lots of it and its more durable... but man, its WORK to plane!

Title: Re: Trading for arrows
Post by Bill Skinner on May 16th, 2013 at 9:01pm
Modern compound bows are cut to center, the arrow does not have to flex to go around the riser.  Carbons can be tuned to a bow but I have had much better luck by leaving them long, the carbons don't want to bend as much as wood, fiberglass or aluminum do.

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